Cannot Decide
- Thread starter DH71986
- Start date
Alright. I know it has been awhile but I have been busy. I work 2 jobs and just haven't had time to locate an engine stand or hoist. Still wanting to get it home just need time. I had a question about some cheap e-bay heads.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/289-302-351...EADS-SBF-2-02-185CC-600-SPRINGS-/272563444897
Did not know if these would be worth the hassle? Anyone using cheap heads like this? Bad? Good? Just want to also say thank you for all of your help so far.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/289-302-351...EADS-SBF-2-02-185CC-600-SPRINGS-/272563444897
Did not know if these would be worth the hassle? Anyone using cheap heads like this? Bad? Good? Just want to also say thank you for all of your help so far.
- Mar 2, 2015
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You've got to be super careful buying cheap heads. A lot of times it'll end up costing more in the long run. Some companies use cheap China knock off castings. Those castings can have a multitude of issues. I like staying with proven parts like the Trickflow Twisted Wedge heads on my 331.
Its not really worth it to skimp on the engine itself.
Its not really worth it to skimp on the engine itself.
Well.........hum. I guess I will start looking for a set of used heads maybe? Who knows. Might get lucky.
Most important part to making horsepower is being able to move air into and out of the motor. This can be done with less than perfect heads if and only if you use a poweradder i.e. Turbo,blower,nitrous. If staying n/a you want a nice quality head with the desired flow capability for projected power level.
Ported stock heads will not make 450hp unless you really know what you're doing and still requires a good valvetrain/bigger valves,etc etc. You'll still have considerable money invested and a inferior head going forward.
The cheaper aftermarket aluminum are just that cheap. They use smaller valves(in most instances),inferior springs,locks,retainers,and many cheap Chinese heads have casting issues i.e. aluminum flashing in the ports,misaligned bolt holes,and other crap. My advise STAY AWAY!! Buy some good heads in the 185-205cc intake runner size from either AFR or Trick Flow(I prefer the 11r's for the top quality valvetrain,big valves,and great flow characteristics)
Ported stock heads will not make 450hp unless you really know what you're doing and still requires a good valvetrain/bigger valves,etc etc. You'll still have considerable money invested and a inferior head going forward.
The cheaper aftermarket aluminum are just that cheap. They use smaller valves(in most instances),inferior springs,locks,retainers,and many cheap Chinese heads have casting issues i.e. aluminum flashing in the ports,misaligned bolt holes,and other crap. My advise STAY AWAY!! Buy some good heads in the 185-205cc intake runner size from either AFR or Trick Flow(I prefer the 11r's for the top quality valvetrain,big valves,and great flow characteristics)
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
In the future I would like to put a turbo on this motor. Do you think with a little port work on the factory cast head, would the 351 perform better then the 302 that is in there? I know many other variables are factored in, but with a decent cam and ok intake would it out perform the factory little engine? I am still considering just throwing a turbo on this 302. I would rather use the 351 with a turbo so I know the block will stay together.
I believe hole heartily that turbos and stock 302 blocks are not a good idea. Yes you can make power with them but the block is going to eventually break(unless you're babying the heck out of it..and why do it in first place if that's the case?). Some people get lucky...many don't. You will always "worry" especially if you don't have the budget for "accidents". You also mentioned that motor has some significant mileage...150k or abouts. That would concern me, to throw boost at it. You're going to be putting a lot of pressure/strain on the rings/bearings/Rod bolts/gaskets etc. Not a big deal if you want to try it...knowing there is a significant chance of some type of failure and you have another motor to play with(i.e. The 351). It would be a good learning experience etc and fun...for awhile at least.
The 351 with a "good" port job,proper cam,intake etc will make ball park guess of around 300-400hp(big margin depending on parts,quality of porting etc). Throw boost at it and you can make big power. Personally I would use the 351. It can take more abuse and grow with your desire for power. Pretty reliable up to around 7-800hp(50+% more than a 302).
If you are just looking for a 12-13 second 1/4 et and some fun on the street you do not need 400+hp. Should be able to run that with around 350hp(these are flywheel numbers). Concentrate on chassis(frame connectors are mandatory and torque box reinforcements are highly recommended),suspension upgrades,and a set of light wheels combined with a slick or a bias ply "Cheater slick". Hoosier,Mickey Thompson,M&H all over some good choices. These mods alone will make significant improvements on straight line performance.
I will point out that whatever power plant you use don't forget all the incidentals. Things like the proper sized fuel system,ignition,tuning,exhaust,etc. These things add up quick. Good luck on your project.
PS. T-5's DO NOT LIKE sticky tires and any decent power level. It will break quickly. There just isn't any short cuts...even in the cheap,fast,reliable contest...just sayn'
The 351 with a "good" port job,proper cam,intake etc will make ball park guess of around 300-400hp(big margin depending on parts,quality of porting etc). Throw boost at it and you can make big power. Personally I would use the 351. It can take more abuse and grow with your desire for power. Pretty reliable up to around 7-800hp(50+% more than a 302).
If you are just looking for a 12-13 second 1/4 et and some fun on the street you do not need 400+hp. Should be able to run that with around 350hp(these are flywheel numbers). Concentrate on chassis(frame connectors are mandatory and torque box reinforcements are highly recommended),suspension upgrades,and a set of light wheels combined with a slick or a bias ply "Cheater slick". Hoosier,Mickey Thompson,M&H all over some good choices. These mods alone will make significant improvements on straight line performance.
I will point out that whatever power plant you use don't forget all the incidentals. Things like the proper sized fuel system,ignition,tuning,exhaust,etc. These things add up quick. Good luck on your project.
PS. T-5's DO NOT LIKE sticky tires and any decent power level. It will break quickly. There just isn't any short cuts...even in the cheap,fast,reliable contest...just sayn'
Thank you for your reply. Sometimes I need it spelled out for me. Does anyone know of a good cylinder head person around the Topeka KS or even around the KC area? I have googled it and cannot find one.
Last edited:
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Not touching that one with a ten foot er..pole.
Sorry. I did not read that before I hit send.
Does any one know a good CYLINDER HEAD person in the area?
lol
There is an edit button on your replies,...go back and fix it, then you didn't say it,..... ever.Sorry. I did not read that before I hit send.
Update:
First off why didn't any one warn me that the rear brakes on these cars suck to change! Anyway, I got that wonderful job done last weekend and I lost my special socket to take off the splined locking lug nut that someone before me had put one there. Then on Tuesday I had a flat and had to plug the tire while it was on the car.
But on one good note, I just ordered a new center section! I am going to have 3.73 put in hopefully in a couple weeks. I have to find someone who can remove those wonderful lug nuts so I can put regular ones on. Wish me luck.
First off why didn't any one warn me that the rear brakes on these cars suck to change! Anyway, I got that wonderful job done last weekend and I lost my special socket to take off the splined locking lug nut that someone before me had put one there. Then on Tuesday I had a flat and had to plug the tire while it was on the car.
But on one good note, I just ordered a new center section! I am going to have 3.73 put in hopefully in a couple weeks. I have to find someone who can remove those wonderful lug nuts so I can put regular ones on. Wish me luck.
Most tire shops have a socket set that takes off those locking lug nuts, they have a set at the shop I hang at and they usually don't even charge anything.
Well.....after doing some research I do believe someone has changed the ring and pinion to a 3.73.
I was hoping to change this with my new Yukon Duragrip but already done. I wanted to improve my 15.0 quarter mile time. I couldn't imagine this car with factory 2.73 ratio. Anywho, I guess putting the new LSD will help with the launch and maybe a better time.
I was hoping to change this with my new Yukon Duragrip but already done. I wanted to improve my 15.0 quarter mile time. I couldn't imagine this car with factory 2.73 ratio. Anywho, I guess putting the new LSD will help with the launch and maybe a better time.
