car died today in traffic.. wtf??

[sgarlic]

Ok, so I haven't had any problems related to this until now.

A few days ago, my wife said the car died as she was pulling in to a parking spot. Then, next time I drove it, it started fine, and sounded like it was missing every once in a while for about 10 seconds, then died. Then it just sat there and cranked and cranked but wouldn't start. I popped the hood, tapped on the distributor (on the top), played with the spout connector, etc, and it started.

Today, started it up, drove about 10 seconds, it sputtered and died in the middle of an intersection. Cranked and cranked, once it almost started but died right away. Popped the hood, tapped on the dizzy again and played with some wires, and it started back up fine.

It apparently only does this cold. None of the plug wires are loose, the dizzy hold down bolt is tight, the spout connector is in. I recently adjusted the timing. I had a little detonation at higher RPM's at higher than 10, so I just re-adjusted it to 10 and left it. It's only been doing it since.

I thought maybe it was the fuel pump, so when it died the last 2 times, I cycled the ignition (could hear the pump priming every time strongly,) and it didn't affect anything.

Any ideas wtf could be going on?

Edit: This is on my unmodded SD '88 by the way. My KOER codes are 94, 44, and 33.

 

[wazazzle]

had that happen once to me died in middle of traffic. after running a long arse electrical diagnostic myself. turned out the be the pip sensor inside the dist, which is replacable. but i also replaced the ign module too-just in case. ran fine afterwards. it's a common prob w/mustangs because dist sits right in the middle of the engine compartment where its the most hot.

 

[HISSIN50]

I like the Waz's reply. Since tapping on the dizzy seems to help it, I would first pull the cap off and look at the PIP wires inside the bowl - they might be chafed or have other apparent issues. It would not be the first time that has happened - the wires vulcanize.

I cant remember if stang dizzy caps have a spring-loaded carbon button inside the cap (on the underside of the cap, mirroring where the coil wire attaches) - if so make sure the button is free. WHen they wear down, they can get cockeyed and not do a good job of transferring spark to the rotor.

A reman'd dizzy might work if the PIP looks bad. The PIP swap is easier if you have a bearing splitter......

A clue if it stays dead and you are not in danger (i.e. if you can get it to do this in the driveway) is:

If you have no spark only, TFI, coil, wiring, etc are all likely.

BUT if you have no spark AND no injector firing (tested with a noid light - 4 bucks at Pep Boys) then the PIP is likely.

Good luck bud.

 

[sgarlic]

Well, last night I checked over everything.. and it looks fine. There's no wear inside the cap (it's basically new anyway.)

It stalled on me at the end of the road today. The weird thing is, it's fine while idling, but it's always about 10 secs after I put it in drive and get going. This time, I stopped, popped the hood, and wiggled wires with the ignition on, and heard something that sounded like it was coming from the passenger side near the firewall, a sound similar to the fuel pump priming.. it did it a few times as I wiggled wires. It started right up, then stalled again after I hit a bump or two, popped the hood, wiggled the dizzy wires, heard that noise, then started it up and it was fine.

Edit: Went outside just now to double check. The wire harness that plugs in to the dizzy is definately the culprit. I wiggled some wires, and it stalled. Left the ignition on, and I could hear it charging up the fuel pressure, then releasing, charging, etc. Looks like either it's a loose wire, or bad connection or something. I'll put some di-electric grease on it tomorrow, and make sure it's all snug.

 

[sgarlic]

Scratch that. Died on the way home, couldn't fix it.. and had to walk several miles back at 3am. Screw this car.

 

[BlackGT89]

Sounds like the TFI Ignition module, except that is usually heat related. Run the codes and see if the computer has anything stored. If you haven't replaced the TFI module in a while, a replacement would be good insurance for under $30. They can be tested but recent posts indicate the tests aren't always that accurate. Hang in there.

 

[StangVert00]

Had the same thing happen to me, but on the highway.
It turned out to be a faulty ground connection to the fuse box.

 

[LX302]

Since the problem you stated is from wiggling the wires, you have a bad wire or connection. Keep tracking it down and you will find it. The battery cables are also culprits you want to look at. Pinpoint the wire, and replace it. If the wire is bad, dielectric grease won't help, only if it's a connection problem.

 

[HISSIN50]

Andy, in case it helps - This is courtesty of S&2B's and Tom Moss (site host and diagram author, respectively).

 

[sgarlic]

So, yea, went back today to check on the car, cranked right up (having not adjusted anything in nearly 12 hours) then died as soon as I gave it gas.

Can you get a replacement TFI from like autozone?

 

[Matty469]

autozone should have it

 

[sgarlic]

Still troubleshooting.. while checking near the coil I found this wire hanging here.. anybody know what is for? I can't find it on any wiring diagrams. The picture is looking from the radiator toward the coil (see the batt. cable, etc in the picture.)

 

[rd]

The best thing to do would be to try and pull codes out of it.

Then check fuel pressure, either with a gage or by the press the valve and see what happens method.

Next, I would test, and, or change the TFI and Pip modules. Ford dist stuff does this. It is making contact when dead cold, but the the current of running causes the wiring to heat and come apart, killing it nicely.

I have had this with a couple of Duraspark dist pickup modules and one 302 truck efi.

A long shot is the ignition switch adjustment has gotten off so that a bump to the switch actually shuts the car off, but yours sounds like the stuff in the dist.

 

[sgarlic]

My only codes are air system inoperative codes.

 

[mr5o]

sounds like the tfi i had a similar problem my car kept dying and wouldnt start for an hour or more had to leave it on the side of the road a few times ...eventually it got worse every time i drove it the car would die...so we swappped out the msd distributer and put the stock one in and it ran fine ever since the msd only had 1500kms on it ...it was the tfi kept overheating or something ...but your situation sounds almost the same ...could be worth the $$$ for the tfi

 

[90StangLX]

I would also say that it sounds like a TFI problem, but I would recommend getting a Motorcraft unit instead of the generic autozone/pepboys version. I've heard too many bad things about the repro parts.

 

[sgarlic]

Still troubleshooting.. while checking near the coil I found this wire hanging here.. anybody know what is for? I can't find it on any wiring diagrams. The picture is looking from the radiator toward the coil (see the batt. cable, etc in the picture.)

bump .. anybody know what wire that is?

 

[stang22]

Mine used to stall when I would come to a stop as well. After all of the troubleshooting, it turned out to be the PIP. No codes...

That wire looks like one that you plug in for the EEC tester, I think.

Tim

 

[wazazzle]

bump .. anybody know what wire that is?

those wires... when i did my harness swap i tagged everthing not connected. that connector was one of those that isn't connected to anything either on mine, i have an '89 lx 5.0. i wouldn't worry about that cause it's part of the entire dash harness. if you find another connector on your engine and looks like it fits to it... maybe it does. but on my 89 it wasn't attached to anything. don't worry about it.

 

[95opal]

same problem.just fixed it w/ a new tfi.good luck