Car died, wont start.

Profile Ignition Pick Up .....


Also known as "Hall Effect sensor". Also known as "stator". Also known as "PIP". Do a search on here with these words and you will find all the info. you need on it. They're not very expensive .... but can be a little tedious on the install. Good luck man.

Reflecting on an old post .....


You may want to just replace the whole dizzy instead of screwing with the PIP thing. That appears to be the easiest way to go.


Also, before you go throwing parts on it .... check for injector pulsing because it could still possibly be the TFI module that crapped out.

As Justin said, the PIP is likely. It is responsible for base injector and spark timing. Obviously the give-away test is if you can verify both spark and injector pulsing are missing when the car acts up, it's likely the PIP.

You use a noid light to check injector pulsing. I think you might be able to get away using an LED test light if you dont have a noid light (Basically, if the light you uses does anything, the PIP should be ok. If the light stays cold, the PIP probably isnt doing anything).

You can spray some electrical contact cleaner on the PIP to wake them back up sometimes (wake them back up for a few mins - not a permanant thing). The contact cleaner cools them and washes the window/shudder off.

A new/reman'd dizzy like Justin mentioned isnt an all bad idea. If you do install just a new PIP instead (on your old dizzy), ensure your dizzy bushing is in good shape before hand - otherwise you can hose a new PIP.

I'd note that with some reman'd dizzies, if it came into the store with a good PIP, they might have left the OEM PIP on the dizzy. One tell is that the reman' companies often dont take the time to re-align the roll pin holes - they blast new a new hole instead. So if you check out a reman'd dizzy at the store and see an old hole, chances are that someone replaced the PIP (at some point atleast). This is all one reason that these reman'd dizzies are often LLT.

Good luck Eric.

Check ur Coil to. When mine went bad my shift light was also going of, and my rpm gauge also jumped. It also kept poppping a fuse though. Cheaper than replacing a dizzy if thats no ur problem

To test injectors you want the test light (or noid light if you have it) biased across the injector connector. The injectors get key-on constant 12 volts and the ground is what the computer modulates to excite the injector.

To replace the PIP, you remove the dizzy. To spray it down, you can remove the dizzy cap and rotor and hose down inside the bowl.