Car finally started, but it wants to die + more...

[Loco5.0]

See this thread to see how this all started
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=536853

I removed the stock ignition coil in favor of an MSD tonight & the car started right up. I let it idle for a minute and then it started to almost stall, but never died. I gave it a little gas and it went back to idling ok, then after it started wanting to die again so I gave some gas again & it was fine. I let it idle for a minute and it didn't do that again. I then put it in gear & moved out of the spot a little and she seemed to be ok. I didn't move much, though.

There was also a burning smell that seemed to be coming from the coil area. I did not see any smoke. It wasn't a burning oil smell or anything like that either. I'd compare it to your normal burning smell on your household stove.

From what I've read, the wanting to die or dying shortly after startup is a sign of a bad TFI module, but if my TFI mod was the problem why would it not start before & now all of a sudden start after I replaced the coil?

I'm going to drive her around the block tomorrow morning and see what happens.

I can just mark the distributor & then turn it to get the TFI module off & as long as I line the marks up when I reinstall I should be ok, right?

 

[Loco5.0]

Anyone?

 

[Loco5.0]

.

 

[Loco5.0]

I took her around the block this morning then parked her & let her idle for a couple minutes. That went fine. I then took up & down the street and she seemed to run fine. I did not notice any stumbling or anything. I came back & let her idle for a couple minutes more and no problems. So wtf was the problem last night? Should still replace the TFI module? That burning smell is still there though. Smells like burnt toast. Maybe I'm just being paranoid. The car was sitting for a few weeks before the drive today.

 

[srothfuss]

When I got my car out of storage this winter I had the same problem. I swapped out the coil and corrected the problem. But somehow I wonder if it was from the car sitting for an extended periord of time and not running (started every week, but not driven because of the snow)

You could always pull the codes to see if the 'puter stored a code.

 

[Loco5.0]

When I got my car out of storage this winter I had the same problem. I swapped out the coil and corrected the problem. But somehow I wonder if it was from the car sitting for an extended periord of time and not running (started every week, but not driven because of the snow)

You could always pull the codes to see if the 'puter stored a code.

The check engine light never came on, would there still be codes? Can I pull them without a reader?

Did your car just never do it again & all has been well or did you replace the TFI module?

 

[ALMOSTFINISHED]

Even tho the light never came on there is still a chance of having a code stored. Do a search to find out how to read the codes with a paperclip and the CEL. I don't know the process off hand, I use my code scanner at work.

Nick

 

[Loco5.0]

I just ordered a new TFI module anyway. Better safe than sorry.

Anymore input?

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.