Car is finally DONE, but there's no spark!!

[Zero Signal]

I finally got around to finishing the junkyard engine I dropped in the Stang since it hasn't run since 2005. After the long haul, a whole bunch of Benjamins and many new parts, I primed the pump a few times and turned the key. Nothing. I screwed with the stupid Silencer alarm for a bit. Tried again, and it turned over! And turned some more but didn't even stutter or try to start. Not a single fire.

I checked the fuel pressure and got gas in the face, so pressure is good. I pulled the #1 plug and double checked that the timing was set right at TDC on the compression stroke, and it was good. The plug smelled like raw gas, so the injectors seem to be firing.

I tested for spark and there's nothing. No iota of spark, anywhere. It's as if the coil is not getting any signal. With the ignition on, I get a solid 12.75 volts at the harness that plugs into the coil, but when I crank it, there's nothing coming from it. I tested with straight wire wrapped around the outlet terminal and positioned it close to a ground and nothing. Dead.

What could possibly cause a no-spark condition at the coil when the coil is clearly seeing some kind of power at the plug?

I tried different coils, they all have a static .3-.4 ohms and don't seem to be bad. What else could be killing the spark?? Could the alarm do it? The car does crank, so I would think the alarm isn't the issue. I did, however, spend about an hour screwing with the alarm to get it to stop going off and actually disarm once I plugged the battery in.

Could something be toasted in the distributor or the ignition module or CCRM?

I ran an OBD1 tester in KOEO mode and it came back with nothing (not too surprising)

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[fordtech28]

try swaping out the distributor if the PIP went bad in the distributor this will cause a no spark situation also check your grounds

 

[Adam95GT]

Check the ground for the coil.

 

[Zero Signal]

The ground for the coil? You mean at the plug that plugs into the coil, or the grounding of the coil bracket? They both seemed good when I checked. The voltage I read came from the harness wires. Both engine grounding straps are good too. I made sure of it by sanding to bear metal and mounting brand new battery cable as grounding straps. I grounded the motor like I would ground a high power audio amplifier (i.e. overkill)

I have an MSD distributor so it's not so easy to get parts for. I may pick up a stock replacement and drop it in and see what happens.

 

[HISSIN50]

Bias a test light across the coil's electrical connector and crank it. Look for the test light to flash.

The coil is modulated (via the EEC and TFI) - it's not a hard ground.

FWIW, you can get a face full of fuel with 20 PSI in the line. If you have a FP gauge, toss it on to be sure of the pressure.

Good luck.

 

[Zero Signal]

I do have a gauge. Actually, I got sprayed why putting the thread adapter on there. The pump is brand new, so the pressure is spot on and has good hold pressure.

I will look into this test light you mention if a new distributor doesn't do the trick.

 

[HISSIN50]

The test light might save you swapping dizzies in the first place. You said your injectors are firing...........

 

[MysteryMachine]

Glad you are moving forward on it. Good luck getting your spark issue figured out.


Just touch the nipple on the coil. If you end up on your ass it's good lol jk

 

[Zero Signal]

It's ALIVE!! I threw in a new distributor and it started. I adjusted the timing and it runs just fine I didn't expect that after 5 years of no motor, so I'm very happy. I may need a new TPS or IAC becuase it doesn't have a strong idle without gassing it and turning the steering wheel kills the motor.

 

[HISSIN50]

Glad to hear it's running.

That issue is more IAC than TPS. Be sure the base idle is set correctly first.