car is slower after mass air conversion

[f8tlfiveo]

went to the track wednesday night...just finished up my mass air conversion last weekend...my 60ft time is the same but as i look at the rest of the numbers this latest run has dropped off from the 60ft till the end of the 1/4 mile from 13.6 to 13.8 and mph dropped from 99.5 to 98.5. is this somthing that is expected when converting your car to mass air?

 

[dr59l]

did youuse an a9l computer? if not it has a more aggressive fuel and ignition curve. there are lots of little tricks you can do to make it up. temp has a big effect on it, was it hotter that day?

 

[f8tlfiveo]

No I am using a9p...the temp
might have been lower by the end of the night. Humidity was pretty low too
I heard that humidity affects mass air more than speed density

 

[jrichker]

Dumping The computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

could there be codes present in the computer from the previous car it was in? the car runs great, i was just dissapointed at the numbers it was producing at the track.
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[NIKwoaC]

What MAF meter did you use? The stock 55mm unit will choke even a completely stock motor. Stock SD cars are actually faster than stock MAF cars.

 

[NIKwoaC]

could there be codes present in the computer from the previous car it was in? the car runs great, i was just dissapointed at the numbers it was producing at the track.
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And no, the codes would clear after the computer realized the error was no longer present.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

yeah i bought a stock unit...should have done some more research before i got it i guess..
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[NIKwoaC]

yeah i bought a stock unit...should have done some more research before i got it i guess..
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Replace it with an aftermarket unit that's 70mm or bigger and you'll gain back that HP and maybe even a bit more.

 

[jrichker]

What did you get for codes when you dumped them? It only takes a paper clip and a test lamp to do it.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

yeah i was looking today at a new C&L 76mm unit with the pipe and filter all for a little over 200. i think i will prob get the explorer intake to complement the new mass air..prob port the lower intake too. i didnt get a chance to dump the codes yet, been busy all weekend. does anyone know how much better the "Explorer GT40" intake is over the stock with a ported lower?

 

[NIKwoaC]

yeah i was looking today at a new C&L 76mm unit with the pipe and filter all for a little over 200. i think i will prob get the explorer intake to complement the new mass air..prob port the lower intake too. i didnt get a chance to dump the codes yet, been busy all weekend. does anyone know how much better the "Explorer GT40" intake is over the stock with a ported lower?

The Explorer is basically the equivalent to the Cobra or the tubular GT40. Maybe worth 10-15 hp over the stock manifold, more if you have supporting mods.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

so its not worth buying the tubular gt40 intake unless you like the look of it. im hoping this will help get some extra air in the motor. doesent make sense to me that ford would put that 55mm piece of crap on the car to choke it out.
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[NIKwoaC]

The 55 isn't really a piece of crap, its just not ideal for performance applications.

And yea, the tubular isn't worth much- if any- performance over the Cobra and Explorer intakes. They all use the same lower casting, which is the real restriction. You can also port the upper on the Cobra and Explorer, but you can't port the tubular.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

just did the codes got a 67 and 85, gonna do a search for the codes

 

[f8tlfiveo]

i had the car in gear so that explains the 67, but the 85 is the vacuum canister selonoid

 

[jrichker]

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes
where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On
Engine On tests. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance.

The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running tests. It also
checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral or the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents
the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away
from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis.
Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from
the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the
ground near the computer.

IF YOU JUMPER THE WIRING TO BYPASS THE NSS, BE SURE TO REMOVE IT PRIOR TO DRIVING THE CAR!!! YOU COULD END UP CRASHING AND BURNING!!!

Code 85 - CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing. Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel.

It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?

Purge valve solenoid:

Carbon Canister: