Car is STILL a slug...

okay so u are probably running lean on fuel or your timing is off either cam timing or ignition timing. the baro sensor is the act and maf sensor due to they use both to calculate what air temp is along with how much air is flowing to determine how much fuel is needed. i would put a fuel guage on it and snap the throttle full throttle and see if the pressure drops down below specs. try to reset computer buy disconnecting battery. if you have access to a scanner i would look at what the 02 sensors are doing as far as switching fast enought to control fuel. just some of my ideas.

Its an auto and a vert. Good luck.



On a serious note. My car acted the same way when my tune was to lean... It would bog, pop then take off. Also smelled rich because of high HC's


And yes. If an 02 sensor is off it could cause an issue like this.

OK Dave

I went back and read more carefully what all you said

The way it revs slowly and pop in the intake sounds like a v leak

Do you think such a leak could be from the recent intake swap

Maybe between the two intake halfs
or
Maybe between the lower intake and heads

Grady

ratio411 said:

I won't get around to it till the weekend, but I am putting new plug wires and o2 sensors.

I am also going to check and recheck the timing various ways to see if I can coax out any irregularites that might indicate a distributor problem or the like.

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Rent a vac gauge and let us know what your reading. You should only do the timing once with the spout out. Just set it to base 10 to trouble shoot.

I could see the engine running lean creating a simular problem like was said above. If you have a lean misfire, there wouldbe pretty high HC levels making it smell rich.

As for the coil being weak, we ran a drag car at school that ran 730hp on motor....give or take a few. It began running terrible, only making mid 200'shp on the dino. The car had a brand new msd coil but when changed out, the car was right back hitting that 730hp mark on the dino. So it is possible.

Would you happen to know someone with access to an ignition o-scope?

I hade this exact same problem when I bought my 95 vert in 2000. The previous owner used to much oil on the k&n filter and it got sucked into the MAS and coated the little wires inside, throwing off the readings it should have been getting. I took a Qtip and rubbing alcohol and CAREFULLY wiped them off. WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT!!! It was like adding a 50hp shot of NOS. Replace or clean your MAS!!!

mustangbill00 said:

Replace or clean your MAS!!!

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That should be the MAF sensor. Your best bet for cleaning is MAF, electrical contact or Non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Spray really well and let it air dry.

True! Don't use rubbing alcohol. I have since replaced my MAF because it was giving me to many problems.

StangGT1995 said:

The likelihood of the timing chain jumping a tooth is about as likely as I am to walk outside right now and get hit on the head by a satellite falling back to earth. If the chain's going to jump, it's going to break first. Now if you mean the distributor gear, well that's still not possible. You just rotate the distributor more until the timing is set. It doesn't know, or care where you align the teeth. As long as the harness has enough play, you can rotate it as far as you want until the timing is set. The most likely reason is that it's got an AODE and 2.73 gears. It's a dog from the factory, and minor bolt-ons aren't going to make it into a race car. Stock everything, except a Cobra intake means you probably went from running consistent 15.5xx, to running 15.2xx. Sad? Yes, but true.

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well the likelyhood of it happening on a mustang probably isnt high but it does happen. I have seen it happen countless times on timing chain engines with chrysler so where it will jump a tooth run like poop and never break the chain.

I had this problem before and it turned out to be the AODE was slipping a little bit. So when the EEC "thought" it was time to shift, it would pull timing because these cars do that between shift to make them more "Cadillac" like. However, if your foot is still on the accelerator when this happens, it will backfire through the intake and cause the car to really studder, then it will pick up again.

AODE's are a joke of a transmission and had no business in these cars. Keep in mind however that Ford had to scrounge up many off the shelf parts to make these cars viable to build, so thankfully they came up with something!

So +1 for getting rid of that AODE and dropping a T5 in there. I have a nice swap thread on here somewhere with pics and everything. And I explain how to get the swap done very inexpensively as well. The cost to rebuild/modify that AODE is very high, I had a buddy get this built for over 2 grand and it still gave him all sorts of issues, never got it right!

Unless your son can't drive a stick, a T5 swap is probably the best bang-for-buck mod you can make on these cars.

ratio411 said:

I do have a question you might be able to help me with.

My boys helped with the intake swap, and now it comes out that my oldest got confused on the vacuum line going to the EGR.

There is a red line and a green line, one goes to the EGR, the other to the vacuum tree right next to the EGR. He got them mixed up, and when we replaced them with rubber (the plastic was dry rotted and broke), we may have put them on backwards. ????

So, does the red line, or the green line go to the EGR?
What affect will it have if the vacuum line is hooked to the EGR, and the EGR line is hooked to the vacuum tree?

Thanks!
Dave

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I don't think it will matter. Here's a picture.

all the IAC does is control your idle speed. It simply bleeds air past the throttle blade. It being bad would cause idle surge or stalling when you come to a stop due to it not being able to stabilize your idle before it the motor dies.

It would not have any effect other than erratic or surging idle if it was bad.

Vacuum leak or timing may be the cause of the rough idle. Check and get back. Remember to pull the SPOUT connector when checking the timing.