Electrical Car is undriveable. Pulled codes, replaced parts still no bueno!

OK, not sure where I fouled up. I did the 'MAF Electrical Tests' that were posted under the 'Mass Air Flow Sensor Connectors' diagram and posted the results. BTW, my electrical troubleshooting skills are abysmal at best, so please elaborate and feel free to speak to me as if I was a 6 year old! I'll eventually get it. LOL!
Look at the pictures, read the text, follow the directions on my previous post.

Start the engine and let it idle . Do not connect the voltmeter to ground when measuring the output from pins C & D. Put one voltmeter probe on pin C and the other voltmeter probe on pin D.

MAF output readings: Use the computer connector diagram to help choose the proper pin connection on the computer when measuring the MAF output voltage. The idling voltage check can the done with the voltmeter directly stuck in the backside of the MAF connector.

At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt

If the output of the C&D pins exceeds the specs above, there are two possible problems:

1.) The MAF sensor is defective and needs to be replaced.
2.) The MAF sensor is installed in a different housing than the one it was designed for. The sensor is designed to work with a specific MAF part number or model MAF housing.[/b]
 
  • Like
  • Useful
Reactions: 1 users
  • Sponsors (?)


Did you put a K&N filter or cold air on this? When you replaced the maf, was it the entire housing or just electronics? Is there a tear or leak in the tube that goes from the maf to the throttle body? Did you take the oil cap off and put one of those little filters in it? Is the pcv hose cracked or loose on the valve?(remove to inspect). This code can come up when their is a large vacuum leak.