Car missing

[bradranger]

I have had this problem for a long time, my car will run fine when first started and will run good for the whole time, but when I cut the car off and restart it, it will start missing. So basically its has something to do when the car gets warm. At wot its fine also. Any suggestions? Could it be my tps sensor it is set at 1.05, thats is as low as I can get it, even with trimming.

 

[HISSIN50]

If it misses consistantly, I'd run a cylinder balance test while it does this. That'll help narrow down if one cylinder is acting up or if it's random.

Your TPS should be fine and within adaptive control.

Good luck.

 

[Black1987Stang]

Mine had a similiar problem like that, im pretty sure it was the ECT, engine coolant temp sensor.....but now has magically stopped doing it but w/e...kinda funny cuz i would be driving to school and temp would still be warming up and would be running and missing, then all of a sudden (once the temps rose up) the engine ran awesome, missing stopped, all the power came back in an instant....pulled the codes n did get an ECT code, but now is gone n hasnt done it anymore


I would pull ur codes....and Jricker I believe "quoted" someone on some tps info, if it runs different right after u restart ur car, its the tps....or something like that.....

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong… Codes can be present without setting the Check Engine Light.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.