Engine Car Overheats In Traffic?

Bigeasy08 · Aug 8, 2013

Hey guys,

This has been an ongoing issue for awhile. I have a new 306 with H/C/I running twisted wedge heads and a trick flow stage 2 cam and 10.2:1 CR. I had a stock radiator in the car and switched to a fluidine and I am still having issues with it overheating in traffic. Today, I wasn't even in stop-and-go that long and it made it up to almost 220.
It has a good water pump and most the parts are new. I also have a fan out of a crown vic that pulls air like a champ. I have been thinking the timing may be too advanced, but I haven't had any detonation problems. Any ideas what may be happening? I can't imagine there is a blockage somewhere, but I am stumped. Thanks guys

93GTosu · Aug 8, 2013

What thermostat is in the car right now?

Has it been going on since the HCI or did it run ok for awhile? Is there an air bubble in the system somewhere?

jka · Aug 9, 2013

What kind of fan are you running? Because that could be the problem if your car does not overheat on the highway but it overheats in traffic.

Bigeasy08 · Aug 9, 2013

jka said:
What kind of fan are you running? Because that could be the problem if your car does not overheat on the highway but it overheats in traffic.

I have a fan out of a crown Vic. It pulls a ton of air.

The thermostat is a 180 but it has overheated in traffic since I first put it on the road about 2000 miles ago. I have checked for air bubbles and mess and haven't found anything.

mikestang63 · Aug 9, 2013

quick rule of thumb

overheating at idle or slow traffic- fan, water pump, thermostat
overheating at higher speed/ highway- air flow restriction, radiator

Things you can check for free

Rent a pressure tester and test the system and cap
Make sure the system is burped of all the air
check front of radiator for debris
check all the hoses for signs they are collapsing or deteriorating
Does your top hose stay hot and the bottom cool- stat not opening
what temp does your e fan come on at
is your overflow tank hooked up and no leaks in it or clogged
overflow hose not clogged or ripped
are you adding coolant often
If it is overheating have you checked for exhaust gas in the coolant- head gasket- you can rent the tester
if your timing is way off that can also cause the car to run hot.
have you pulled some plugs to see what they look like
finally if you are relying on the stock gauge to tell you what temp the car is running at, get a real gauge as the stock ones are not accurate.

Hawkeye_306 · Aug 9, 2013

If you're confident the cooling system & timing are OK, you could be running lean.

tb9050lx · Aug 9, 2013

Hawkeye_306 said:
If you're confident the cooling system & timing are OK, you could be running lean.

Bigeasy08 said:
Hey guys,

This has been an ongoing issue for awhile. I have a new 306 with H/C/I running twisted wedge heads and a trick flow stage 2 cam and 10.2:1 CR. I had a stock radiator in the car and switched to a fluidine and I am still having issues with it overheating in traffic. Today, I wasn't even in stop-and-go that long and it made it up to almost 220.
It has a good water pump and most the parts are new. I also have a fan out of a crown vic that pulls air like a champ. I have been thinking the timing may be too advanced, but I haven't had any detonation problems. Any ideas what may be happening? I can't imagine there is a blockage somewhere, but I am stumped. Thanks guys

Is the fan wired the way ? make sure it is pulling the air across the radiator and not pushing it , in my youth i wired a black magic fan reverse and it would overheat sitting in traffic .

vfast · Aug 11, 2013

pull the stat and drill 2 tiny holes in it this will take care of any trapped air or buy a mr gasket one...are you sure hg are on correctly? how many rows in the new Rad? when is the fan coming on?

Bigeasy08 · Aug 11, 2013

vfast said:
pull the stat and drill 2 tiny holes in it this will take care of any trapped air or buy a mr gasket one...are you sure hg are on correctly? how many rows in the new Rad? when is the fan coming on?

The head gaskets are good. They are oringed that go on the trick flow heads and I had them done by an awesome engine builder here that has done a lot of work for me and friends. He also builds motors for a leading shop close by as well.

The new radiator is a 3 row fluidyne and the fan cuts on at 175. However, the top radiator hose never gets stiff and I cannot seem to get the air out of it for the life of me. I have done every trick in the book. I am almost 100% sure the water pump is a standard style that turns counter clockwise...so I am not sure what the problem is...any ideas?

vfast · Aug 11, 2013

pull the stat and see

vfast · Aug 11, 2013

we all make mistakes..he could have put a HG on backwards

mikestang63 · Aug 11, 2013

Bigeasy08 said:
The head gaskets are good. They are oringed that go on the trick flow heads and I had them done by an awesome engine builder here that has done a lot of work for me and friends. He also builds motors for a leading shop close by as well.

The new radiator is a 3 row fluidyne and the fan cuts on at 175. However, the top radiator hose never gets stiff and I cannot seem to get the air out of it for the life of me. I have done every trick in the book. I am almost 100% sure the water pump is a standard style that turns counter clockwise...so I am not sure what the problem is...any ideas?

Jack up the front end of the car and fill the radiator up, if you have the heater core hooked up turn the heat on full blast and wait for the stat to open. After the coolant drops refill the radiator and put the cap on. Make sure the overflow is working and filled properly. Take the car for a drive and after cool down check the coolant. Refill if necessary.

What also helps is to replace the stock thermostat housing with one that has a removable pipe plug in it . It makes burping the system so much easier. You can also burp the system by removing the water temp gauge sending unit in the lower intake as it is higher than the stat and the radiator. Fill the radiator until all the air is out and the water is just up to the sending unit in the intake and replace the sending unit.

Bigeasy08 · Aug 13, 2013

Ok guys...still haven't figured out the problem...

I took the water pump off today...and it is flowing the correct direction (Counter clockwise). Pulled the thermostat and heated it up...it opens properly. No blockages in the radiator...the timing is fine...I'm just stumped as to why it overheats to easily. I truly do not believe it is the electric fan because today when driving it home from the exhaust shop, it would stay between 200 and 210...Most foxes I have seen run around 180-190, and when I come to a stop, it starts climbing and won't stop.

I'm using an autometer gauge to determine the temp too.

jAEded · Aug 13, 2013

efi or carbed?

Sounds lean, or the fan. I had a similar problem with a Lincoln fan before it stopped turning on and off altogether. I went back to the mechanical.

With the lincoln fan, edelbrock victor w\p, U\D crank, U\D water pump pulley my temp was always highest. Stock fan, victor water pump, U\D crank, U\D water pump pulley my temp was in the middle. Stock fan, victor water pump, U\D crank, O\D water pump pulley my temps are the lowest... All with a 195 Mr. Gasket thermostat.

89stang1 · Aug 14, 2013

have you tried to burp it yet like mustang63 said that would be my best guess too sometimes it takes a while before the bubble comes up. One other thing if you are seeing temps that high when you shut car off is it hissing and peein in overflow it should be if you are getting that hot

madspeed · Aug 14, 2013

jAEded said:
efi or carbed?

Sounds lean, or the fan. I had a similar problem with a Lincoln fan before it stopped turning on and off altogether. I went back to the mechanical.

With the lincoln fan, edelbrock victor w\p, U\D crank, U\D water pump pulley my temp was always highest. Stock fan, victor water pump, U\D crank, U\D water pump pulley my temp was in the middle. Stock fan, victor water pump, U\D crank, O\D water pump pulley my temps are the lowest... All with a 195 Mr. Gasket thermostat.

Firat time ever i've heard of anyone going from efan to mechanical

want to solve your problem, lose the underdrive water pump pulley

jAEded · Aug 14, 2013

Lol, I know. I'm running a O\D 93 Cobra water pump pulley. Only my power steering, smog pump and AC are under-driven.

jAEded · Aug 14, 2013

I probably just could have left the fan on at all times and it would have been fine. I didn't want to run it that way though.

jAEded · Aug 14, 2013

Does anyone know how a electric fan ties in with a EFI car and the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor?

Do the fuel and timing tables change with engine temp? Is it looking for a range of temps? I understand with the mechanical fan its always spinning at like 30% or something and increases with air temp through radiator. With a mechanical fan your engine runs cooler because the fan is always on versus a electric where the engine temps climp up to 210, fan kicks on, then temp drops to 195 and the cycle starts again. I guess my question is would running a electric fan make the car out of tune because the car is no longer within the temperature ranges specified in the powertrain control module programming?

madspeed · Aug 14, 2013

"Does anyone know how a electric fan ties in with a EFI car and the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor? "

it doesnt unless wired to

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