Car pic and Slide-a-link question
- Thread starter Vinyl66
- Start date
302 coupe
Founding Member
I would imagine you'd want zero gap at the strip, and maybe some preload on the passenger side. Thats the way my cal-tracs are set. If you still have wheelhop, tighten 'em some more, it will go away. I will say that these type of traction devices work alot better when the front end is freed up, soft springs, drag shocks, no sway bar, etc.
Thanks for the compliments!
The great thing about it is I bought it looking just the way it does (minus wheels) on ebay 2 years ago for $4000. And the interior is in as good condition as the exterior.
I just put a roller 302 block with Scat 347 stroker crank in it with KB hypers
and XE274H flat tappet cam (long story)
AFR 185 heads
Professional Products air gap intake
C4 Trans.
3.55 gears
215/60/ 14 BFG drag radials
It is a very fun car and is still a little scary with all the extra torque the 347 produces over my old 306. After my first trip to the strip the other week I found I have to address my traction problems. Stock 40 year old leaf springs with no traction bars and KYB shocks and 620 lb/in lowering springs do not really help my little BFG's hook at the track.
I am in the process of installing some slide-a-links (much like Caltracs but a little more streetable I hear). I will probably switch to my stock front springs as well for better front end lift. Then clamp the rear leaf springs together.
The first time out I did manage a 12.44 at close to 109 while babying it out of the hole with a 1.95 60 foot. I had some wheel hop and took it easy on the new engine by shifting at about 5800 as well. Funny thing is I had better 60 foots than that with my 302 running 13.2's last year.
I'll get there.
The great thing about it is I bought it looking just the way it does (minus wheels) on ebay 2 years ago for $4000. And the interior is in as good condition as the exterior.
I just put a roller 302 block with Scat 347 stroker crank in it with KB hypers
and XE274H flat tappet cam (long story)
AFR 185 heads
Professional Products air gap intake
C4 Trans.
3.55 gears
215/60/ 14 BFG drag radials
It is a very fun car and is still a little scary with all the extra torque the 347 produces over my old 306. After my first trip to the strip the other week I found I have to address my traction problems. Stock 40 year old leaf springs with no traction bars and KYB shocks and 620 lb/in lowering springs do not really help my little BFG's hook at the track.
I am in the process of installing some slide-a-links (much like Caltracs but a little more streetable I hear). I will probably switch to my stock front springs as well for better front end lift. Then clamp the rear leaf springs together.
The first time out I did manage a 12.44 at close to 109 while babying it out of the hole with a 1.95 60 foot. I had some wheel hop and took it easy on the new engine by shifting at about 5800 as well. Funny thing is I had better 60 foots than that with my 302 running 13.2's last year.
I'll get there.
I found where Competition Engineering recommends running 1/4" gap on the street. For racing they suggest preloading the driver side one turn and the passenger side 1 1/2 turn. I will have to experiment with them but that sounds like a good starting point.
302 coupe:
What is the major difference between the CE bars and the Caltracs. I know they are the same basic design and both use aluminum front eye bushings. Why are the Caltracs louder? Do they not use a urethane snubber in the middle of the bar?
302 coupe:
What is the major difference between the CE bars and the Caltracs. I know they are the same basic design and both use aluminum front eye bushings. Why are the Caltracs louder? Do they not use a urethane snubber in the middle of the bar?
The wheels are 17 x 8's with 4 3/4" backspacing all the way around. The front tires are 225/45's and the rears are 245/45 Kumho's. The rear springs are stock and the front are Mustangs Unlimited 1" drop 620 lb. coils. The fenders are not rolled and I have no tire clearance issues.
302 coupe
Founding Member
Vinyl66 said:
Cal-Trac
Slide-a-link
No urethane snubber on the cal-tracks. I really can't figure out why CE uses the urethane piece, it doesn't do anything unless you have wheelhop, which kinda defeats its purpose. When the bar is adjusted properly, there will be no wheel hop, thus no impact for the urethane to absorb. I've not noticed the c-t's making any noise on my car. The c-t's have more adjustment, and more range on setting instant center, they also appear to be more robust in contruction. I would think the slide-a-links will work ok though, same basic principle.
I will say that Calvert Racing really did impress me, good service and quick shipping. When I opened the box, my first thought was "damn, these things are for real". Extra beefy construction, nice powdercoated finish, high quality hardware, I have no complaints whatsoever. I can't vouch for the CE slide-a-links, but the other products I've gotten from them seem to be mediocre as far as quality goes. They work OK, but they don't give me the warm fuzzy feeling that I had from Calvert.
1320stang
Founding Member
Vinyl, do you have subframe connectors? If you don't, you might want to think about getting some weld in ones soon. Otherwise you'll get some cracking from the lower rear corner of the rear side windows and with your vinyl top, it'll be hard to detect. Plus it'll help your track times.
302 coupe
I had read on another site that the Caltracs were noisy on the street but even those who said that loved them. Thanks for the explanation. Hopefully I will like the CE bars. Everyone I have read about having them seems to like tham as well.
1320stang:
I bolted on a set of Mustangs Unlimited subframe connectors a while back and they really stiffened up the ride. Before I bolted them in, I could jack up one side of the car and the doors would be more difficult to open. I can open the doors easily with the car jacked up now. I plan to have them welded in soon so they will be even more effective.
I would suggest this mod to all classic Stangs doing any racing.
I had read on another site that the Caltracs were noisy on the street but even those who said that loved them. Thanks for the explanation. Hopefully I will like the CE bars. Everyone I have read about having them seems to like tham as well.
1320stang:
I bolted on a set of Mustangs Unlimited subframe connectors a while back and they really stiffened up the ride. Before I bolted them in, I could jack up one side of the car and the doors would be more difficult to open. I can open the doors easily with the car jacked up now. I plan to have them welded in soon so they will be even more effective.
I would suggest this mod to all classic Stangs doing any racing.
