Car randomly dieng out then not starting

mus1994stang

New Member
Aug 17, 2003
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for awhile i would have to crank it for a few seconds to get it started. then i was driving and the rpms drop to zero and back up to normal. a few times i will get to a complete stop and it will completly shut off and will not restart for about 10 minutes or so.
i replaced the fuel pump and its does not happen as much now
i have heard it could be the relay?
where are they located on a 94 mustang gt
also heard it could be..
MAF sensor
IAC
ignition
loose wires?

i havent been able to find any commom problems and everytime i want to test fuel/ spark it starts
any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks...
 
Start with the basics. Yank all 8 spark plugs, and see what they look like. Report back when you do.

Get a fuel pressure gauge, and check out the pressure with vacuum, and without.

Next get a vacuum gauge, and check your vacuum. Whatever the number may be, the important part is that it is steady.

If the spark plugs are dirt brown, and the fuel pressure & vacuum check out, the likely problem is spark timing. Check the base timing with the spout unplugged. If it's at 10*, then go to your haynes manual and it will tell you how to check the timing with the spout connected, to monitor the computer's changes.

Next look at your sensor in the distributor (PIP module). They can cause serious problems when they go bad.

If your plugs are jet black, or white, then it's a a/f ratio problem.

Does the problem happen when the car is bone cold? Only when it's cold? Only when it's hot? Both? Test the car when it's cold; Also, watch the temperature gauge, and when it reaches normal operating temperature, see if it starts to happen.
Scott
 
same problem

im having that same problem. it started by just dropping to 0 rpm's then resuming to normal driving. but it's gotten worse to where my car completely shuts off and wont start for 10-20 minutes or until it cools down. it has no problems starting when it's cold but when it heats up, no way will it start. check my thread "yet another problem." i'm really tempted to replace the pip/stator/hall effects sensor (pick your name) tomorrow becuz it's gotten pretty dangerous when my car stops on the damn freeway. :notnice:
 
this sounds very similar to the problem i had. i'm sure it was the stator(or whatever you want to call it), but i just put a MSD distributor in since my other was almost shot anyway. try the stator first since its only around $10
 
Scott and everyone else's advice sounds good. dont forget about the pick up (as mentioned) and coil itself. remember that the tach signal comes from the coil - if the tach gets funky, that can indicate an ignition malfunction.

when it wont start, are you missing spark?

good luck.
 
mus1994stand,

Your distributor stator is going bad.

That's exactly how they fail, slowly over time. Soon it will die completely and your car will not restart.

The Stator is also called the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup). It contains a Hall Effects Sensor which is a magnetic pick-up that tells the computer when each cylinder is at TDC. Hall Effects Sensors are very temperature sensitive, and eventually die over time due to sitting right on top of the engine near the heads.

It's mounted in the bottom of your distributor and you have to remove the distributor from the engine to replace it.

Mine died in exactly the same mannner. Car would die for no reason. After a 5 to 10 minute cool-down it would restart. Finally, after about two weeks or so, it just died completely and would never restart again.

Replace it and your good to go.
 
thanks alot guys ill try the PIP.

the problem is that everytime this happens im out somewhere and dont check spark and fuel. ive checked those two and there fine...but that is when the car is running.

everytime it does happen i have to wait for the temp to down to "n" to start it
(about 10 minutes)
it doesnt nessicarlly happen when its hot or cold though.

the car has 120,000 it could be the PIP.
any other comments ideas would be great.
 
mus1994stang said:
if i get a new stator or PIP
should i go with echlin from napa 33.99
or go with motorcraft

i dont really think it matters but i'd go with the motorcraft. in a few minutes im gonna run to autozone and pick one up for my car. having the same probs so i'll post if things work out w. the stator. good luck and post about your results.
 
well after fighting with auto zone about the stator (went back like 3 times before getting the right one) i finally got around to installing it. after fighting with my distributor (couldn't get the gear off) i decided to buy some electronic cleaner and spray the hell out of my old stator. i'll get it installed today, for sure, and let you guys know the results.
ps: autozone sucks at getting **** right. had to ask for a 95 cobra stator...anyone had the same problems? :bang:
 
hey can you guys tell me if this fixed your problem,

all im experienceing is the car not starting, it starts fine then all of a sudden wont start. Today i had to wait 10 minutes then it started again... but i dont know if it has to do with heat because i went to a friends shop were he works and turned it off and then started it up again and again and it worked fine.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4607360#post4607360

is my thread
 
hey guys,
today i replaced the ignition module and the PIP or stator ( inside the distibutor)

so far so good....

im not sure which one it was but it ran fine tonight

couple techs told me that if you replace the pip (pick up coil) you should replace the ignition module.

and if your up there with the miles
i would go with it

Thanks for all your help.
 
MATic,
i didnt even bother going to autozone,
i have had enough problems with them in these past few weeks...never going there again
i would go to NAPA or FORD
dont buy that china and *** crap
and the gear was a hard to get off too.
did you notice any green (corison) inside the distributor...?
 
thanks for the advice, guys, i had this problem this morning, gave up twice, restarted, i thought it was the in line filter because when i changed it last week, it was fine for a few days, then today, on the way to work, 3 times, she sputtered, died, then the third time, gone, no restarting

really hope this works...what tools do i need for the job?
 
xr8d302,

on 94/95s the ignition module is under the
mass air flow sensor and this only requires a few tools ( just some sockets)

i went along and replaced the PIP/stator too
you have to pull of the distributor and take it apart. If your looking to buy a after market distributor id put that in instead.Because the gears are pretty hard to take off the distrubutor.

Any questions ... just ask

im 95% sure this is the problem
cuz it is exactly the same problem i had and its been running good now.
 
yeah im going to try to take mine out tommorow as well.

Is the pip really hard to replace?

I heard you just take out the dist, mark it, pop out the pin for the pip and replace it.


Did you guys ever find out if it was the module or the PIP?
Thanks
 
smokedsaleen said:
yeah im going to try to take mine out tommorow as well.

Is the pip really hard to replace?

I heard you just take out the dist, mark it, pop out the pin for the pip and replace it.

It's a bit more involved than that. You need a press to remove/install the distributor gear. Once the gear is removed, it's easy. Read the following link for a step by step procedure;

http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/TFI-PIP/TFI-PIP.htm

The above article says you can use a soft mallet to remove the distributor gear. That won't work. You will need a press.

Hope that helps