car stumbles from idle to 2500

My 91 fuel injected escort idles fine but stumbles and pings if i dont ease the throttle up. Once above 2500rpm I can mash it and it works just fine. I can't even accelerate normal or it will kick and buck and want to die unless I let off the gas. TPS is adjusted properly, it now is hard to start so maybe the fuel pressure. If it were the fuel pressure tho why does it work fine at high rpm? This problem just all of a sudden started happening.
 
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Sounds like timing advance related ping. Maybe the initial advance is set too high - giving over-advance at low rpm, thus pinging, but not affecting high rpm where timing us maxed out.

My car bucked and kicked if not eased into the throttle, and found that adjusting the ignition helped more than adjusting the fuel mix.

I'm no expert on this though, just a theorist.
 
Well it wouldnt start today so I retarded the timing and nothing, advanced it and it started right up. It pings really bad like this under the slightest load. Once its running I can retard it so it doesnt ping as bad but it wont start with it set there. A really respectable mechaninc said TPS or the sensor that reads the air temp and stuff. I think I have another TPS from the junk yard that I will try when I get back home. Is there a way to test the fuel regulator?
Update:
It wont really go past 1/4 throttle. It doesnt really ping and sputter anymore it just stops running, like it has a flat spot, until I bring it back to less that 1/4 and it comes back on. It also will do this at any RPM now but I can still get it up to 6K as long as I ease it up there. The TPS adjusted properly is right in the middle of the adjustment. If I move the TPS to one side it wont start if I move it to the other side of middle it runs the same as being adjusted properly. Is that right? I can also unplug it and it seems to run the same.
Update2:
Changed TPS nothing, put old coil on which has its own problems and runs ALOT better. So I think it's the coil. I just dont see how I'd have to change the timing to make it run.
 
It is still having problems. The coil only has 1 volt at it while at idle and maybe 3 when revving it. That seems low to me. The coil says 12V on the side. I was going to power it straight from the battery but I'm not sure if its supposed to have a full 12 volts to it.
 
I don't know but did Ford still use resistive wire in 91'? Anyways, you are probably on to something with the coil voltage. Disconnect the wire to the coil and again test it. You certainly should have a lot more than a volt or 2.


Have you tried timing the engine with a timing light? Might also want to try a compression check.

Just making sure that the timing belt/chain didn't jumped a tooth and is adding to your problems. . . . .
 
Ok I'm an idiot about the 1 volt at the coil. I was wrong it has 13.4 while running. Both leads have that tho, should they both have 13.4 volts? Checked compression 150-175, timing belt looks to be one tooth off but has been that way for years. New thing I've found is that if i ease it up to 2500RPM and mash it all cylinders lose spark. Once I let off then spark comes back. Could it be the distributor pickup? I tried to use a blaster II coil off my stang but it wouldnt even start. I called a few places and they dont seem to sell distributor parts, only whole ones for like $250.