car wont start after motor swap

h8my408

Member
Aug 27, 2007
93
0
7
Houston, Tx
ok so if anyone has looked at my sig, you've seen that i recently completed-ish a motor swap in my 82 gt. yanked the original carburated 302 and took an 89 bronco 351w and carburated IT. i havent had a chance to tune my demon carb because of it being retarded and dumping fuel into the secondaries at idle. i have thrown on a different carb now so thats not my issue as of now. i cannot and have not been able to use my ignition key to start the car now. i've been driving around with a screwdriver. i dont know how much more annoying this could be. other than the fact that my e-brake needs tightening, so if i'm on a hill in traffic, and it dies.. i have to get out of the car to start it, but i cant in fear of rolling. i use the tranny as the ebrake when parking it, but i cant have it in gear while starting it...

the starter came from an 89 mustang and the tranny an 88.

what could this be? my car didnt come with a clutch safety switch...
 
No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds.
fig-7.gif


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.
Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss &Stang&2birds
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See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars
See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.