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Car wont start, everything lights up

  • Thread starter Thread starter N8Miller
  • Start date Start date Mar 10, 2004

N8Miller

I need NOS....make it 2 of the big ones
Founding Member
Jul 26, 2000
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Kingston, PA, USA
Mar 10, 2004
#1
  • Mar 10, 2004
  • #1
ok, car wont start. cd player comes on. lights come on. nothing. i push the clutch down, car wont do nothing. no clicking, trying to turn over. nothing. now, the positive battery cable is cracked like 2/3s the way down the post area---wil that have anything to do with it?
any ideas? starter is about 2500 miles old, but doesnt even try to turn over.
thanks
 

1991vert

10 Year Member
Feb 27, 2004
1,103
7
69
Ludlow, MA
Mar 10, 2004
#2
  • Mar 10, 2004
  • #2
N8Miller said:
ok, car wont start. cd player comes on. lights come on. nothing. i push the clutch down, car wont do nothing. no clicking, trying to turn over. nothing. now, the positive battery cable is cracked like 2/3s the way down the post area---wil that have anything to do with it?
any ideas? starter is about 2500 miles old, but doesnt even try to turn over.
thanks
Click to expand...

i disconnected my (-) cable and all of my accessories died, but i never tried the red one. and this was just with the key turned to acc. not with the car on. try replacing the battery terminal clamp, it's worth a try and could be a simple fix. good luck
 

jrichker

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#3
  • Mar 10, 2004
  • #3
Here's a checklist:

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Check the cables for cracks in the insulation, and corrosion around the wire where it joins the connector. Look for swelling of the cable’s diameter which would indicate corrosion inside the cable. Bending the cable can often reveal corrosive damage inside the cable when the outside looks OK.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw) and jump it to the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then the relay is bad.

6.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

7.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

8.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

9.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
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PA
Mar 10, 2004
#4
  • Mar 10, 2004
  • #4
jrichker said:
Here's a checklist:

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Check the cables for cracks in the insulation, and corrosion around the wire where it joins the connector. Look for swelling of the cable’s diameter which would indicate corrosion inside the cable. Bending the cable can often reveal corrosive damage inside the cable when the outside looks OK.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw) and jump it to the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then the relay is bad.

6.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

7.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

8.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

9.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
Click to expand...


Very good advice, that is a very complete list and in the right order You would be surpirsed what some dirty terminals will do....
 

NKau

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Mar 10, 2004
#5
  • Mar 10, 2004
  • #5
It seems like somebody posts one of these once a week LOL. A lot of times it ends up being either the + or - battery cables. I'd probably replace them anyway, especially if the insulation is cracked. It ended up taking care of my problem.
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
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Nov 11, 2003
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#6
  • Mar 10, 2004
  • #6
I just had the same problem. New solenoid and i'm good to go.
 

N8Miller

I need NOS....make it 2 of the big ones
Founding Member
Jul 26, 2000
2,661
0
0
Kingston, PA, USA
Mar 11, 2004
#7
  • Mar 11, 2004
  • #7
jrichker, heres an update:
i got a new battery, new positive cable and installed them. cd player/interior lights turn on. i assume the headlights too, but didnt try them.
1) car wont start if jumped.
2) check battery ground, seems good. check engine to firewall ground, seems decent, but not the best shape. possible?
3) didnt see any corosion or buldging cables
4) didnt try
5)i fuddled with the neutral safety, i push it down, still nothing. possiblity!
6) got it to start.... whats that mean?

ddint get any further, need to see what you think about this so far.

thanks
 

jrichker

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#8
  • Mar 11, 2004
  • #8
The key is "Car won't start if its is jumped". Pick up on the checklist at item #4 and see what happens when you bypass the interlocks for the starter. If it cranks, then either the ignition switch or the netural safety/clutch switch is defective. If it doesn't crank, follow the checklist items until you get to the end.
 

NKau

Founding Member
Dec 15, 2001
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Mar 11, 2004
#9
  • Mar 11, 2004
  • #9
N8Miller said:
2) check battery ground, seems good. check engine to firewall ground, seems decent, but not the best shape. possible?
Click to expand...

The battery ground is just as important as the + battery cable. It's too cheap/easy a thing to not replace and eliminate a headache if at all possible. If it isn't a problem now, I guarantee it will be down the road if it's an OE part.
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
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Northern KY
Mar 12, 2004
#10
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #10
I'm sticking to my starter solinoid guess, but i have a question while we're on this topic....My car is a factory 5 speed, but the guy that owned it before me put a C4 in it, so he either bypassed or took out my neutral switch. 1) where the hell is this thing if i want to replace it and 2) My car starts and runs fine, i just have to remember to park in neutral or make sure i have the clutch in before i start it, so is there any other problem with not having the switch or it being bypassed? I cant think of any but i wouldnt mind replacing or rewiring it just to be safe, if someone else jumps in to drive my car i dont want them to drive into something when it starts.
 

N8Miller

I need NOS....make it 2 of the big ones
Founding Member
Jul 26, 2000
2,661
0
0
Kingston, PA, USA
Mar 12, 2004
#11
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #11
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
I'm sticking to my starter solinoid guess
i thought you might be right. BUT, i replaced the selinoid. there is 12v in the selinoid, 12 in the battery, but it wont even try to turn over. right now, im thinking its the clutch safety or the ignition switch.
any opinions?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
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Northern KY
Mar 12, 2004
#12
  • Mar 12, 2004
  • #12
damn....i think you've about narrowed it down
 
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