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Carb counting

  • Thread starter Thread starter TurboNoong
  • Start date Start date Jul 23, 2004

TurboNoong

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
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16
Anytown USA
Jul 23, 2004
#1
  • Jul 23, 2004
  • #1
Okay I need some help form you guys , besides the obvious what else would be needed and what can be removed for my 94 engine compartment for the 351 switch. I know the headers, motor mounts, ignition. Which harnesses do I keep and which do I sell. Also what about the gauges? New ones needed? What I'm working with is a 94GT C-4 tranny but a giant hole between the fenders till this weekend. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Noong
 

WaterPog

Founding Member
Mar 12, 2001
2,201
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Portland, OR
Jul 23, 2004
#2
  • Jul 23, 2004
  • #2
you gonna keep it EFI or go carburated?
 

TurboNoong

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
500
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16
Anytown USA
Jul 24, 2004
#3
  • Jul 24, 2004
  • #3
"you gonna keep it EFI or go carburated?"

I will be going with the old school ways this time around. Hows your ride doing?
 

WaterPog

Founding Member
Mar 12, 2001
2,201
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0
Portland, OR
Jul 24, 2004
#4
  • Jul 24, 2004
  • #4
it took it's first breath this morning

If you're going carb there is a lot of stuff you can pull out.
 

TurboNoong

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
500
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16
Anytown USA
Jul 24, 2004
#5
  • Jul 24, 2004
  • #5
Cool, I got the motor this morning and will start adding to it this week. Start listing the items any help would be greatly appreciated. Congrats on the car, I know it's been a long trek. Are you going to be at Wills wedding? Better yet, it the car?
 

WaterPog

Founding Member
Mar 12, 2001
2,201
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0
Portland, OR
Jul 24, 2004
#6
  • Jul 24, 2004
  • #6
basically you'll want to pull the whole stock harness that the ECU connects to and there are 4 or 5 wires that you'll need to replace in that harness.

Then you start getting into the other stuff that you may or may not want to keep like the ABS, CCRM, AC, etc...

It almost gets to the point that you'll just want to remove everything and start over with a painless harness.
 

WaterPog

Founding Member
Mar 12, 2001
2,201
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0
Portland, OR
Jul 24, 2004
#7
  • Jul 24, 2004
  • #7
I'm going to take it kinda slow with the car, no sence in balling it up because I rushed it to get onto the track. I'll be at will's wedding (If I don't I'm quite sure Tina will hunt me down and string me up by my nutsack), infact I'm one of the groomsmen

Does this mean we may actually meet in person? scary.

On the guages, I think that with a '94/'95 you can make all the factory guages work if you feel the need to, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to switch over to some good autometer guages. again you get into a situation where it may be easier to just replace the wiring than it is to keep the stock stuff and modify it to work with the new equipment. The stock oil pressure guage is a joke, and the coolant temp guage isn't much better, so the only things that you'll really be using from the stock cluster are the tach, speedo and fuel level.
 
E

Evil Moose

New Member
Jun 24, 2004
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Aloha, Oregon...Oregon: the State Park!
Jul 25, 2004
#8
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #8
Take a good look at the 1995 Cobra R remote radiator filler neck...the top of the intake is higher than the top of the radiator....you might have air issues with the cooling system.
 
S

slapper

Founding Member
Mar 6, 2002
447
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0
Jul 27, 2004
#9
  • Jul 27, 2004
  • #9
I've got a carb bonnet for you.
Give me a shout, and I can probably help you out with some 351 stuff.
 

TurboNoong

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
500
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16
Anytown USA
Jul 27, 2004
#10
  • Jul 27, 2004
  • #10
Cool, I could use all the help I can get. I need to order a few things before I put the motor in. Any ideas as to which oil pan for the sn95s and which headers?
 
T

Turbosnake95-wk

New Member
Apr 20, 2004
94
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0
Jul 27, 2004
#11
  • Jul 27, 2004
  • #11
Sounds like everything is coming together Noong Hope you have alot better luck with this setup than you did with the last

BTW, your invitation should be arriving any day now.


Will
 

TurboNoong

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
500
0
16
Anytown USA
Jul 27, 2004
#12
  • Jul 27, 2004
  • #12
It's just gotta get better someday!
 

TurboNoong

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
500
0
16
Anytown USA
Jul 28, 2004
#13
  • Jul 28, 2004
  • #13
Okay back to work, which oil pan and headers do I need for this mill? I have a c-4 behind it, if that makes a difference.
 

WaterPog

Founding Member
Mar 12, 2001
2,201
0
0
Portland, OR
Jul 28, 2004
#14
  • Jul 28, 2004
  • #14
you'll need a 351 swap oil pan, fox and SN are the same here. I'd go with long tube headers just on principal, something without a ball/flare joint.
 

TurboNoong

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
500
0
16
Anytown USA
Jul 29, 2004
#15
  • Jul 29, 2004
  • #15
I think I found a pan from lamrith. which headers do you recommend? Or better yet who sells em?
 

WaterPog

Founding Member
Mar 12, 2001
2,201
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0
Portland, OR
Jul 29, 2004
#16
  • Jul 29, 2004
  • #16
A lot of it depends on how much you want to spend as far as the headers go. You could expect spend $500 or so on a set of hookers or accufab. If you want to get really crazy you could spend upwards of $1000 on some nice ceramic coated parts from Kooks. I'd stay away from BBK, Mack or any of the others who use the ball/socket flange. They are really easy to work with but they are much more restrictive than a classic 3-bolt flange would be.
 
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