I am new to classic cars and I figured the best way to learn is to jump in and do some hands on stuff. I have an Autolite 4100 that I have in the process of rebuilding and I had a question. Can someone explain to me the kickdown linkage ? A picture would also be great. The other question is...if my 4100 doesn't have that linkage, can I add it ?
carb linkage question
- Thread starter thenewguy65
- Start date
The earlier C-4's didn't have the kickdown on the carb, it was operated off the lower part of the carb linkage where it came out from the passenger compartment. The later cars had a tubular linkage that attached to a lever on the carb itself. If you don't have it, just downshift manually with the shifter. Just don't drop it down and nail the pedal at the same instant. Move the shifter into 2nd or 1st, and then nail the pedal. I've read that doing both at the same instant can damage the transmission.
D.Hearne said:
I'd rather just get the carb setup with the kickdown if at all possible.
Well here's what I am working with. I have a rebuilt C4 from Advance Auto in there. It came with the car and I have the receipts from the previous owner. It's only got 3500 miles on it. I do think the existing kickdown linkage is attached to the existing carb. Autolite 2100. I don't know if that's something I can take off one carb and put on another. It would be nice if that were the case
pabear89
Active Member
thenewguy65 said:
There should be a lever on the bottom of the throttle link.
follow it from the carb to the firewall and down.
this should have a cable about 8ins hooked to it going to your trans,
attached to a lever with a spring holding it back.
So when you mash the gas, the top of the linkage moves back, the bottom moves forward pulling the slack from the cable till it moves the lever pulling against the spring till it sets trans into a forced downshift.
So carbs with or without trans hook up will work.
PB
The kickdown rod/tube for a 2bbl carb will not fit a 4 bbl carb, unless the whole carb pad sets back on the intake where the primaries sit where the 2 bbl carb was in relation to the rest of the engine. ( that make sense?) Or in other words, if the 2 bbl carb pad is centered on the intake and the 4 bbl is as well, then the primary side will be a little farther forward on the intake from where the 2 bbl linkage was, in so being, the 2 bbl rod will now be too short to reach the 4 bbl linkage. Been there, done that with the swap on my 68 Merc's 390. Went from the stock 2 bbl iron intake to a 428PI intake and the kickdown rod for it was too short to work.thenewguy65 said:I'd rather just get the carb setup with the kickdown if at all possible.
Well here's what I am working with. I have a rebuilt C4 from Advance Auto in there. It came with the car and I have the receipts from the previous owner. It's only got 3500 miles on it. I do think the existing kickdown linkage is attached to the existing carb. Autolite 2100. I don't know if that's something I can take off one carb and put on another. It would be nice if that were the case
Ebay, best guess. Maybe some of the classic Stang suppliers might have it. Never looked for one myself. I just downshift it manually when the need arises. I don't drive it much anyway. I have a half dozen or so of them stashed in my shop, but can't tell you for sure what they'll fit now. Some came from 351's, some from 390's, maybe one or two from small blocks. If you had a part # to go by, it's possible that some may have more than one application.thenewguy65 said:
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