Carpeted trunk and sub box ... pics!

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Here is what I've been working on lately.

The subwoofer box has two 10" Rockford Fosgate P1s. It's made out of 5/8" MDF. With the divider, each side has about 1.2 cu ft. Also there is a 3" x 8" port on each side facing straight up at the holes in the rear deck where the 6x9s used to be. I moved the 6x9s underneath the rear deck at the outermost holes.

The subs are driven by an Alpine Amp.

The panels are 1/8" hardboard with the carpet glued on.

One for the top of the tank and one for each side.

The sides of the bottom are made up of 1/8 hardboard with a vertical strip of 1/2" plywood.

I can remove the box and panels too. I didn't make any cover for the gas fill tube or tail light panel.

The spare still fits, but now I don't want to put it in there.:rolleyes:

Oh yeah, I put Dynomat Extreme on the quarters behind the side panels and it went from a gong sound to a solid thud when you hit it. :nice:

And the tunes can now CRANK loud enough to make the neighbor wet the bed.

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Looks awesome. Its amazing how much of differents you can make in the trunk with a little time, we spend so much time under the hood but now you'll be poping the trunk to gloat. I did a similar thing on mine but I am running two free air 12s...Yours looks better though. Good job.
 
Do you have any pictures of how you did your 6x9's? Aren't the outer holes to small for them to go into?
thanks!

Yes and yes. Is I said, I mounted them underneath...

I used some old vacuum tubing for spacers (about 1") to keep the woofer surround from touching metal when it moves. Then I cranked the mounting screws to compress the tubing to about 3/4". They are very secure. The woofer cones don't have to move as much now though with the sub box providing the lows.:nice:

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Came out clean.

this is only my opinion, but your 6X9's would sound better if they were flush mounted or flat against a surface, and your ports would be more effective if they were in the front of the box or had a transmission line port inside.
 
I was thinking the same (for the 6x9s)... but then again, the treble will probably be fine (I'm thinking) and the bass is more than covered with the subs. If there were no subs, I would think of it as an issue.

Looks very clean though!
 
NICE! That rear set up looks real real clean. Glad to see that you thought of adding spacers so that you dont cut the surround. Where did you mount your fuse? Looks like you could throw a capasitor on there and it would mount up nice and clean as well.
 
NICE! That rear set up looks real real clean. Glad to see that you thought of adding spacers so that you dont cut the surround. Where did you mount your fuse? Looks like you could throw a capasitor on there and it would mount up nice and clean as well.

Thanks for the comments.

I moved my battery to the trunk a while back and built this power panel then. I used a 25 Amp fuse on the 6 way fuse holder. (bottom left) It has a 10 ga wire to the amp which has a 20 amp fuse built in.

As far as capacitors, I never beleived in them. My capacitor is the 800 CCA battery in the red box.:nice:

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My 65 vert didn't have a package shelf so I had go with 6-1/2 speakers in the kick panels and 6x9s in the rear side panels. I have a single 10" sub in the trunk with a 240 W Amp driving it and a 360 W driving the 4 mid-range and 4 tweeters.
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Tim,

Trunk looks really great. If you've got more "construction" pictures please post them. I've got to get around to dressing up my trunk soon.

How did you mount the side boards?

Did you use a plywood subframe?

Tim
 
Trunk looks really great. If you've got more "construction" pictures please post them. I've got to get around to dressing up my trunk soon.

How did you mount the side boards?

Did you use a plywood subframe?

Yeah, I've got more pics, but I'm at work, so I'll post 'em tomorrow.

There is 1/2" plywood that the amp is mounted to. It goes from an angle bracket attached to one of the quarter trim studs to the wheelhouse lip whith 1 1/2" of pine spacers to place it back some.

The right side panel is mounted to a 1/2 plywood "strip" that goes from an angle bracket attached to one of the quarter trim studs to the wheelhouse lip.

They are each held in with two push in "Christmas Tree" plastic retainers.
 
Ok, it's tomorrow... here are some more pics.

For all of the parts I used cardboard as a template and just trimmed until it looked good, then traced it out onto the wood. I then test fit each piece to make sure there was about 1/4" all around for the carpet clearance. Then spray glued both surfaces, waited ‘til it tacked up, then stuck the carpet on. I then sprayed glued a couple inches around the back side and wrapped the carpet around, trimming it a bit.

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Oh yeah, the brown and green camo looking plywood is leftover from my shed. It used to be my sons model train layout table...about 15 years ago! lol

I was told it'd make the car go 5 mph faster.
 

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That is amazing...seriously, thumbs up.

Thanks!

Anyone have suggestions for what type of material to cover the rear deck that:

1. Won't Fade - holds up to the killer UV here in the Sun Belt.

2. Won't sag in the holes.

3. Allows the highs from the 6x9s to come though.

4. Dense enough so you can't easily see through it.

I used to have black vinyl material with the speakers above, but I moved them below, because the sun beat up my first set (totally dissentigrated the surround), also the new sub box ports fire through the bigger holes, and I think it looks better to have just a plain smooth rear deck.
 
Thanks!

Anyone have suggestions for what type of material to cover the rear deck that:

1. Won't Fade - holds up to the killer UV here in the Sun Belt.

2. Won't sag in the holes.

3. Allows the highs from the 6x9s to come though.

4. Dense enough so you can't easily see through it.

I used to have black vinyl material with the speakers above, but I moved them below, because the sun beat up my first set (totally dissentigrated the surround), also the new sub box ports fire through the bigger holes, and I think it looks better to have just a plain smooth rear deck.
use the pre package carpet you get at Kragens or Pep Boys, it wont fade, is tranparent enough to let sound through, but cant see through it. I would make the panel with some hole cut through instead of a 6X9 openeing so the carpet doesnt sag or get loose from the air from the ports.You could also extend the ports from the box to the rear deck, using flex tubing