Progress Thread Cars alive again, but would these items move on marketplace?
- Thread starter Reddevil91
- Start date
That would be cool, I’m sure soon enough they will. I believe they only use to do this in LA and one other place, but have been seeking other venues. It was definitely awesome and would do it again. I miss Nashville had a great time when I lived there, but Austin is basically a bigger Nashville. Not a big hockey guy but regret never going to a preds game.
Radwood is really cool. I go to the one they have over here each year and it is always a great time
So I’m debating on just buying the other gauges from glow shift which would be a boost/vac gauge, and a wide band afr which allows data logging, to which idk what that means besides you can just hook up to a computer and see where you ran lean or rich? The boost would do me no good right this moment but soon enough. Could I still run the AFR gauge with my current set up? I’ve heard, read and seen topics about left bank, right bank, and even running both sides. Idk what that means? I know my longtubes already have a bung on the drivers side header, which just has a plug in it currently, so I could unscrew it and pop the wide band in there. I was just thinking that I’m about to wire the fuel pressure gauge that I installed, so now I have the small one on the rail and one I can see on my cowl grille, but if I’m gonna wore that one I would like to just wire all of them so I don’t have to keep taking the cowl gauge on and off, then once I add blower power awesomeness I can just finish that side of things for the boost gauge. Or am I just being crazy??? Oh yeah, I got stickers!!! Also pulled the fuel gauge from the cluster and sent to autometer, can’t wait to see if this works!!
I was gonna harp on you to keep your gauges all the same style, but If you look at my dash, you'll find that it's full of brand new gauges from NewVintage..but Im still using a digital innovate AFR gauge..( I ain't replacing a known-working AFR gauge with a different one just because it doesn't match) And just recently, I added back the glow shift boost gauge that I also had laying around in a drawer.
But I already had that stuff.
If you haven't purchased anything yet, I'd be wondering as to why you wouldn't keep your gauge theme intact instead of hodge-podging two or three different brands together...especially considering you just bought al of those auto meter gauges.
I'm assuming that it's electrical, and the pic is if the sender that you have now spliced into your fuel line, but If that fuel pressure gauge is mechanical and it has gas going to it, it has no place inside your car unless you like the smell of burning flesh right before you die.
A visual aid for this morning's lecture:
You don't need to see fuel pressure considering most of the rest of the world get by without ever knowing wtf it is..I can see having it on a race engine where a lack of FP means engine melt down, but on a street car....
if there is a hard line with gas running to the gauge, you gotta keep it outside. I think It looks bad when mounted outside of the car on the cowl and makes the equivalent statement of having wheelie bars on a street driven car with street tires on it....But that's just me.
As for which side to mount the O2 sensor in, it won't matter...burned gasses are burned gasses regardless of which bank they are coming out of. Having a wide band o2 sensor is a tuning aid regardless of the engines N/A status..it'll tell you how much fuel is getting burned, and how much isn't in the combustion process. It will record what it does ( a data log) so that you can make a hard pull and see how rich or lean the engine is, with the objective AFR at wot as lean as possible w/o risking damage to the engine ( a whole different lecture).
But I already had that stuff.
If you haven't purchased anything yet, I'd be wondering as to why you wouldn't keep your gauge theme intact instead of hodge-podging two or three different brands together...especially considering you just bought al of those auto meter gauges.
I'm assuming that it's electrical, and the pic is if the sender that you have now spliced into your fuel line, but If that fuel pressure gauge is mechanical and it has gas going to it, it has no place inside your car unless you like the smell of burning flesh right before you die.
A visual aid for this morning's lecture:
You don't need to see fuel pressure considering most of the rest of the world get by without ever knowing wtf it is..I can see having it on a race engine where a lack of FP means engine melt down, but on a street car....
if there is a hard line with gas running to the gauge, you gotta keep it outside. I think It looks bad when mounted outside of the car on the cowl and makes the equivalent statement of having wheelie bars on a street driven car with street tires on it....But that's just me.
As for which side to mount the O2 sensor in, it won't matter...burned gasses are burned gasses regardless of which bank they are coming out of. Having a wide band o2 sensor is a tuning aid regardless of the engines N/A status..it'll tell you how much fuel is getting burned, and how much isn't in the combustion process. It will record what it does ( a data log) so that you can make a hard pull and see how rich or lean the engine is, with the objective AFR at wot as lean as possible w/o risking damage to the engine ( a whole different lecture).
I forgot how expensive gauges are these days. So glad that I went with the digital dash setup, and can gauges at a fraction of the cost.
What are you running ECU wise again?
What are you running ECU wise again?
I did think about keeping the same theme with the ford racing gauges, but since they were going to be mounted outside I was worried about dropping almost 900 bucks on 3 gauges and have them get jacked. I don’t really drive in rain but car washes etc ya know. No I haven’t gotten the others yet just kinda thinking about it all. I obviously have the fuel pressure gauge, yes it’s electric and I did change my fuel lines and spliced into that one line. That’s the only reason I contemplated using the glow shift gauges for that outside cowl gauge. I know they aren’t the best but they seem to do the job and they are reasonable. Your messing with my head man!! Lol just kidding I know the ford racing ones would look way better.I was gonna harp on you to keep your gauges all the same style, but If you look at my dash, you'll find that it's full of brand new gauges from NewVintage..but Im still using a digital innovate AFR gauge..( I ain't replacing a known-working AFR gauge with a different one just because it doesn't match) And just recently, I added back the glow shift boost gauge that I also had laying around in a drawer.
But I already had that stuff.
If you haven't purchased anything yet, I'd be wondering as to why you wouldn't keep your gauge theme intact instead of hodge-podging two or three different brands together...especially considering you just bought al of those auto meter gauges.
I'm assuming that it's electrical, and the pic is if the sender that you have now spliced into your fuel line, but If that fuel pressure gauge is mechanical and it has gas going to it, it has no place inside your car unless you like the smell of burning flesh right before you die.
A visual aid for this morning's lecture:
You don't need to see fuel pressure considering most of the rest of the world get by without ever knowing wtf it is..I can see having it on a race engine where a lack of FP means engine melt down, but on a street car....
if there is a hard line with gas running to the gauge, you gotta keep it outside. I think It looks bad when mounted outside of the car on the cowl and makes the equivalent statement of having wheelie bars on a street driven car with street tires on it....But that's just me.
As for which side to mount the O2 sensor in, it won't matter...burned gasses are burned gasses regardless of which bank they are coming out of. Having a wide band o2 sensor is a tuning aid regardless of the engines N/A status..it'll tell you how much fuel is getting burned, and how much isn't in the combustion process. It will record what it does ( a data log) so that you can make a hard pull and see how rich or lean the engine is, with the objective AFR at wot as lean as possible w/o risking damage to the engine ( a whole different lecture).
It’s a stock ecu from the car with an sct tune, and yes gauges are pricey as hell, especially these ford racing autometer ones!!
If your car was mine in it's current state. I would simply do a center vent dual gauge cage setup or dual gauge pillar pod. Put matching ford racing boost/vac and fuel pressure gauges and call it a day.
The wb02 gauge isn't needed for you if your having the car dyno tuned. Sure you can view your AFRs but you can't do jack about them. If you were self tuning the car and continuing to do so in the future then sure it would be very helpful and probably worth trying to fit somewhere into the interior without junking the car up but I'm going to assume that your not tuning the car yourself.
The wb02 gauge isn't needed for you if your having the car dyno tuned. Sure you can view your AFRs but you can't do jack about them. If you were self tuning the car and continuing to do so in the future then sure it would be very helpful and probably worth trying to fit somewhere into the interior without junking the car up but I'm going to assume that your not tuning the car yourself.
Not currently but with plans to buy a blower, I am planning on changing my ecu, which I’ve been getting pointers from @a91what on which set up would be best for me. Now I’m gonna have to do plenty of research bc I have no idea how to mess with these tuning things but I want to learn and know how.
- Mar 2, 2015
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A wideband has a use in every vehicle. It takes a bunch of time out of diagnostic procedures. With our cars it's great to see if the car is actually running lean...or rich. Fuel pressure is another thing that helps hugely with diag of a driveability issue or a no start. Without seeing it daily you dont know you have a problem till the car is stuck somewhere or running bad. The vacuum gauge is one of the best things for diagnosing issues from bad valves...timing...vacuum leaks...exhaust restrictions...and a whole bunch more.
I think that pod will look great with the wideband flanked by the analog style fuel and boost / vacuum gauges. These cars are not our new obd2 equipped vehicles. My 19 mustang has all these gauges built into the cluster...but most cars don't.
Your fuel gauge is different than mine...mine is digital read out. That's why the wire colors were different.
I think that pod will look great with the wideband flanked by the analog style fuel and boost / vacuum gauges. These cars are not our new obd2 equipped vehicles. My 19 mustang has all these gauges built into the cluster...but most cars don't.
Your fuel gauge is different than mine...mine is digital read out. That's why the wire colors were different.
- Mar 2, 2015
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This is not true. A wideband will let you know if you have a rich condition ( like a bad injector ) or a lean condition ( like a bad vacuum hose or PVC valve ). Neither of those things require a dyno to find and fix. There are some things you can't change ( like fuel tip in...or fuel trim ) but it is handy for a bunch of things you can fix, especially in conjunction with a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. These gauges help to guide a person to the problem area...should one arise. Our cars will break....questions are...when...where....and why ?
So are you saying everything I mentioned is false? You absolutely must have a wbo2 gauge in your dash?
- Mar 2, 2015
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I do...lol. it's actually in a pillar gauge pod.
And...yes...because he does want to learn how to tune in the future.
This is 2019...we can find single units that display multiple things. I like gauges...I have a bunch of them...but they all are needed and used....except the nitrous pressure one. I'm just sentimental about that one.
The statement that a WB is useless unless self tuning a car is rediculous. A wideband can also help you keep track of AFR so you can guide your tuner in the right direction. Even more important when you can't data log.
Please point out to me where I claimed wb02 is useless? I'm not one to regurgitate he said,she said or false information so please point out to me where I claimed wideband o2 setups are useless? His car is dyno tuned and SCT chipped so he isn't changing AFR on his own yet and I wasn't sure if he planned on pursuing a self tune solution which is why I said "If you were self tuning the car and continuing to do so in the future then sure it would be very helpful"
So craigslistin again and I came across this post. I’ve always wanted to go stroker at some point but not my current stock block. If I’m gonna do it I’m gonna do it right and get something that can handle power. Anyways I came across this dart shp block. I originally wanted to do a 331/347 which if I’m correct, but maybe I’m not, that this block is now bored to big to do so right? Guess the guy had plans on going 363 with turbo but he said he had some life events that made him have to abort. So I remember reading that with the dart 363 I wouldn’t be able to run my TFS 11r 190s, is this correct? Or can I run them on this but just need to run different pistons for it to work? Idk if that price is even good or not honestly. Figured I’d see what the consensus is. He seems to have some good stuff listed.
https://austin.craigslist.org/pts/d/austin-fox-body-ford-302-parts/6832093821.html
https://austin.craigslist.org/pts/d/austin-fox-body-ford-302-parts/6832093821.html
