Cel Code 14 Headache

Code 14 - Ignition pickup (PIP) was erratic – the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor is failing. Bad sensor, bad wiring, dirty contacts. Factory tach will sometimes read erratically.

Revised 10-Dec-2012 to add PIP diagnostic testing & Wells info

The PIP is a Hall Effect magnetic sensor that triggers the TFI and injectors. There is a shutter wheel alternately covers and uncovers a fixed magnet as it rotates. The change in the magnetic field triggers the sensor. They are often heat sensitive, increasing the failure rate as the temperature increases.

PIP Sensor functionality, testing and replacement:
The PIP is a Hall Effect magnetic sensor that triggers the TFI and injectors. There is a shutter wheel alternately covers and uncovers a fixed magnet as it rotates. The change in the magnetic field triggers the sensor. A failing PIP sensor will often set code 14 in the computer. They are often heat sensitive, increasing the failure rate as the temperature increases.

Some simple checks to do before replacing the PIP sensor or distributor:
You will need a Multimeter or DVM with good batteries: test or replace them before you get started.. You may also need some extra 16-18 gauge wire to extend the length of the meter’s test leads.
Visual check first: look for chaffed or damaged wiring and loose connector pins in the TFI harness connector.
Check the IDM wiring – dark green/yellow wire from the TFI module to pin 4 on the computer. There is a 22K Ohm resistor in the wiring between the TFI and the computer. Use an ohmmeter to measure the wire resistance from the TFI to the computer. You should see 22,000 ohms +/- 10%.
Check the PIP wiring - dark blue from the TFI module to pin 56 on the computer. Use an ohmmeter to measure the wire resistance from the TFI to the computer. You should see 0.2-1.5 ohms.
Check the SPOUT wiring – yellow/lt green from the TFI module to pin 36 on the computer. Use an ohmmeter to measure the wire resistance from the TFI to the computer. You should see 0.2-1.5 ohms.
Check the black/orange wire from the TFI module to pin 16 on the computer. Use an ohmmeter to measure the wire resistance from the TFI to the computer. You should see 0.2-1.5 ohms.
Check the red/green wire; it should have a steady 12-13 volts with the ignition switch on and the engine not running.
Check the red/blue wire; it should have a steady 12-13 volts with the ignition switch in Start and the engine not running. Watch out for the fan blades when you do this test, since the engine will be cranking.
If you do not find any chaffed or broken wires, high resistance connections or loose pins in the wiring harness, replace the PIP sensor or the distributor.

The PIP sensor is mounted in the bottom of the distributor under the shutter wheel. In stock Ford distributors, you have to press the gear off the distributor shaft to get access to it to replace it. Most guys just end up replacing the distributor with a reman unit for about $75 exchange

PIP problems & diagnostic info
Spark with the SPOUT out, but not with the SPOUT in suggests a PIP problem. The PIP signal level needs to be above 6.5 volts to trigger the computer, but only needs to be 5.75 volts to trigger the TFI module. Hence with a weak PIP signal, and the SPOUT out, you could get spark but no injector pulse. You will need an oscilloscope or graphing DVM to measure the output voltage since it is not a straight DC voltage.

See http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/counterp_v8_i2_2004.pdf and http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/counterp_v8_i3_2004.pdf for verification of this little detail from Wells, a manufacturer of TFI modules and ignition system

I'm also having code 14 that sometimes comes up after the car is warmed up. I hooked up a scope to the pip wire and the pip signal is bad and failing, the signal should be a nice even square wave.

I'm in need of a brand new distributor, what brand are you using?

PGH93GT said:

I went MSD.

Click to expand...

MSD =May Suddenly Die.
There are more failures of MSD manufactured equipment here on Stangnet than any other manufacturer.

The code 14 is a dead giveaway, the problem symptoms match a failing PIP sensor.

The stock Ford distributor is miles better than any MSD distributor. Sell the MSD on Craig's List or eBay and get a Ford distributor.

PGH93GT said:

I used a reman one from ford and the MSD. It's not a failing PIP unless I have 2 brand new distributors that are garbage which I'm gonna say is highly unlikely. Also as to why I'm very confused.

Click to expand...

gnx547's test method is the only sure way to find if a defective PIP is the source of your problem. How you find the equipment to do the testing is your next challenge.

gnx547 said:

I'm also having code 14 that sometimes comes up after the car is warmed up. I hooked up a scope to the pip wire and the pip signal is bad and failing, the signal should be a nice even square wave.

Click to expand...

You need to ditch the MT2400 and get a Vantage Pro! lol All jokes aside, it's nice to see someone else that knows how to read waveforms...

giddyup306 said:

You need to ditch the MT2400 and get a Vantage Pro! lol All jokes aside, it's nice to see someone else that knows how to read waveforms...

Click to expand...

Ever use a Tektronix 5440 four channel oscilloscope?

It's overkill for automotive work, but is it is great when you get down into the component level electronics work. All four channels running at the same time enables you to look at an amazing array of signals at the same time.