CEL Issues

[ColdAudio]

Hey guys, my car's been running alright lately but on ocassion a CEL will randomly come on and then it'll start to stutter/have no power like it's running either way too rich/lean. I figured it's alright I'll just pull the CEL and fix whatever... but I don't have a code puller. So I was told that I can pull codes by grounding the wire in the grey box in the EEC TEST box behind the driver's side strut tower while the key is in ON, the CEL should stay on long for the first digit and short bursts for the second digit, all I need to do is count the number of times it blinks. Problem is, when I ground out that wire all that happens is the CEL stays on steady and that's it. Am I doing anything wrong, or is there a very inexpensive code puller I can get for the diagnostic port? Thanks.

 

[86bluecobra]

bump

 

[vristang]

jrichker has posted a link to cheap readers quite a few times.

do a search on his name and you will find it.

 

[bill302]

you need a circuit light tester ar analog volt meter or a obd1 tester you can purchase from wal-mart for $30 or autozone will do it for free. you read codes with above listed devices at the plug not at the check engine light like on a chrysler. but below is a link on exactly how to do it . also i had similar problems a few weeks ago turned out to be oxygen sensors but i was throwing two codes i fixed one the other was linked to oxygen sensor system be sure to post codes retrieved and let these guys help you they will save you alot of money.


http://www.muscularmustangs.com/test1.php

 

[bill302]

heres another link good info. here in link click on solving idle problems 1-5 these steps will also often fix the type of problem your having like setting tps and cleaning maf and good luck.

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/maintain.php

 

[troyGT03]

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/ shows how run codes and the code definitions.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

 

[ColdAudio]

thanks a ton for all of the replies, i think ill order that one with the lcd display simply out of laziness, but until then ill use the old school way of reading the codes... thanks again!!!