Centerforce clutch question

kdog_x · Jul 28, 2004

I took the ride in to get new tires put on today, no probs there but I talked to the "mechanic" at pep-boys and he said he thought I had some sort of problem with my clutch because the pedal seemed really stiff to him. I've got a centerforce dual friction so I expect it to be a bit stiff, but he said he's got the same clutch in his stang and his is much easier on the leg. Think this guy knows what he's talkin about? Should I check anything to be sure?

The clutch is only about 3yrs 25,000 miles old. It's seen a bit of a beating at the track but no power shifting or anything too extreme. Only reason I ask is cause I'd hate to be changing it again anytime real soon.

Daggar · Jul 28, 2004

Stock or aftermarket cable and quadrant? Either way, is the cable and quadrant aligned? I've got the DF Centerforce as well. Still have my stock cable and quadrant. Pedal feel is about the same as it was with the stock clutch. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Daggar · Jul 28, 2004

Ditto what ECU5.0 said too.

ECU5.0 · Jul 28, 2004

check your routing on your cable....its probably binding up somewhere...which will lead to a snapped cable. check to see if its too close to the headers or see if it has a kink in it anywhere

kdog_x · Jul 28, 2004

No binds in the cable, there's really nothing to get in the way. I melted through two or three cables about a year or so ago due to the closeness of my longtube headers. But I glued some of that header wrap to the sheath of my current cable to avoid that problem happening again. I'll go take a pic or two, let me know if anything looks funny.

kdog_x · Jul 28, 2004

Excuse the rats nest under my hood, still gotta find a way to hide all those wires. First ones a pic of the cable from the top, second is a pic of where it bends under the k member, and the last one is a picture of my wrapped cable that pretty much lays on the header.

And I'll be damned, my dust boot must have come loose and fell off while I was driving. It'll be a great time tryin to find a new one of those.

http://www.wideopenwest.com/~kevinrush1/cable1.jpg
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~kevinrush1/cable2.jpg
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~kevinrush1/damnheader.jpg

Trojan Horse · Jul 28, 2004

I have a center force dual friction in my car. It has been in for about 4 years now and the pedal effort is and always has been lower than the stocker it replaced. I'd say you have a problem somewhere in the cable or maybe the input shaft bearing retainer tube that your throw out bearing rides on is worn or broken.

Daggar · Jul 28, 2004

Any idea how long that dust cover has been missing? Trojan might be onto something with the tube.

ECU5.0 · Jul 28, 2004

i would definetly say its the cable. even though you have it wrapped its still gettin pretty hot in there

ECU5.0 · Jul 28, 2004

dust cover aint gonna do anything.....my car has never had one and it never caused any pedal stiffness

v8only · Jul 28, 2004

your clutch cable seems to be routed perfectly. I don't see any major kinks or binds either.

It was hard to tell if you had stock headers or aftermarket ones, however, if you are having problems, maximum motorsports suggests using the oem sn95 cable (which they sell) because it is a little longer, and allows you to reroute to avoid the headers.

Look under the dash, as mentioned and be sure that it is lined up with the hole properly as mentioned.

You also never answered our question as to which type of quadrant you were using...stock or not?? I looks like you've got a firewall adjuster on it.

Luvmy88 · Jul 28, 2004

Where did you get your cable/quadrant? I got mine form Ebay for cheap. It was very hard to push the pedal down, but I never realized it until my cheap adjustable (adjustable at the clutch fork) cable snapped, and I had to get a new one. I bought a new OEM cable from Maximum Motorsports, with their quadrant, and now my pedal feels like butter. Get the cable/quadrant/firewall kit from MM if you have a cheap cable quadrant...

ECU5.0 · Jul 28, 2004

v8only said:
your clutch cable seems to be routed perfectly. I don't see any major kinks or binds either.

It was hard to tell if you had stock headers or aftermarket ones, however, if you are having problems, maximum motorsports suggests using the oem sn95 cable (which they sell) because it is a little longer, and allows you to reroute to avoid the headers.

Look under the dash, as mentioned and be sure that it is lined up with the hole properly as mentioned.

You also never answered our question as to which type of quadrant you were using...stock or not?? I looks like you've got a firewall adjuster on it.

the cable is sitting right on his header before it goes into the mount on the bellhousing. he has a heat shield wrap on it....but im not sure if that would help

kdog_x · Jul 28, 2004

ECU5.0 said:
the cable is sitting right on his header before it goes into the mount on the bellhousing. he has a heat shield wrap on it....but im not sure if that would help

The only reason the cable looks like its sitting on the header is because I wrapped around the cable two or three times in that area due to melting through the two previous cables before this one. The headers are just made so that they sit too close to the cable, there's no way to move the cable further away because the headers are only inches from the hole the cable goes through in the bellhousing.

I do have an aftermarket setup though. The quadrant is billet, although I'm not sure what the brand is (been a few years). I also have the firewall adjuster (same brand as the quadrant). I'm gonna try greasing up the cable tommorrow and see if that helps any. Think white lithium grease would be OK for that?

ecu5.0 said:
dust cover aint gonna do anything.....my car has never had one and it never caused any pedal stiffness

Really, have you ever had any trouble with rocks or anything getting in there, I've got a pretty good view of my clutch through the opening. That kinda worries me, in case I was ever on a gravel road or something.

kdog_x · Jul 29, 2004

Success!!

Update - I pulled the cable off and oiled it up real good with some WD-40/Lithium Grease. I'm glad I did it, The thing drives like a new car now. I think I may have also had the pedal adjusted up too high. I set it so that the pedal drops about 1/2" or so before engaging, I had it set to about 1/16" before. Now the pedal goes down like butter and I can actually feel the spring kicking the pedal back up when I let off. Still kinda nervous about not having the dust boot though.

ECU5.0 · Jul 29, 2004

dont worry about the dust boot unless you go mudding or drive through gigantic puddles all the time. it shouldnt cause any problems

bln92cpe · Jul 29, 2004

look at those rusty headers

kdog_x · Jul 29, 2004

bln92cpe said:
look at those rusty headers

could be worse, they could have holes in em.

v8only · Jul 29, 2004

your problem may come back. Those clutch cables are teflon lined, therefore do not need lubing. In fact, lubing them will catch dirt, grit, gravel and can wear it out.

If your problem comes back, order the sn95 longer oem cable from mm, and route it away from the headers, you'll probably be ok.

Centerforce clutch question

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