Centerforce clutch question

[sixtyfive]

It has been about a year and a half since I put a new Centerforce Dual Friction clutch in my mustang. i have driven the car enough for it to be broken in, which is probably about 1000 miles.

What I am noticing is that when I am stopped and in first gear I am having to give the car quite a bit more gas as I let the clutch out to keep the engine from killing. As far as I know there is no way to adjust this, is that correct? What would cause this to happen? I definatly liked it better during the first 200 miles when I did not have to give it so much gas.

If ya need any more info feel free to ask!

 

[ratio411]

Well, are you sure it's the clutch?

If the engine is bogging, and it is the clutch, then it is clamping like a mofo!
That's generally a good thing as long as you don't have chatter.
Kevlar clutches are great for that.

 

[sixtyfive]

No actually I am not sure it is the clutch, what else might you think it would be?

I do not really think it would be engine related as the engine runs fine at any time other then when engaging the clutch from a dead stop.
Maybe it is just user error and i should get used to it being this way?

It is a sharp drop in engine rpm as well, i should test droppin the clutch from 3000 rpm just to see whether it will stall or not. Its been a few months since ive done a good ol smokey burnout

 

[D.Hearne]

What rear gears do you have? I too , tend to think you're just experiencing postive clutch engagement now, there's nothing wrong with the clutch, your motor just doesn't have enough torque to move the car with the rear gear it's got.

 

[ratio411]

What rear gears do you have? I too , tend to think you're just experiencing postive clutch engagement now, there's nothing wrong with the clutch, your motor just doesn't have enough torque to move the car with the rear gear it's got.

Good point.
That'l do it.

 

[sixtyfive]

What rear gears do you have? I too , tend to think you're just experiencing postive clutch engagement now, there's nothing wrong with the clutch, your motor just doesn't have enough torque to move the car with the rear gear it's got.

I am running 3.73 rear gears
my engine dyno'ed at 426hp/430tq at the flywheel when I got it, and I have noticed no difference in power since then.

Is there any possible way that I could be losing compression or power only when trying to take off?

Would droppin the clutch at 3000RPM be a good test of engine power at the second it would take for the clutch to engage?

Thanks alot for the help guys



Another point would be that this "problem" has gradually been getting worse throughout the past year. Am I just not driving my baby enough?

 

[Rusty67]

Sounds like there might be a clutch adjustment issue. What type of clutch linkage do you have ?

 

[D.Hearne]

You don't have an aluminum flywheel do you? Have you checked the timing lately? If the timing has moved and is now retarded, that'll do it too.

 

[sixtyfive]

Sounds like there might be a clutch adjustment issue. What type of clutch linkage do you have ?

I used the same linkage which was on my 289, im almoast positive that it is the stock linkage, ill get a picture right now

And im in my work clothes so I was unable to get a picture from below where it goes into the bell housing

fyi -- the washers were to make the linkage arm sit square due to the fact that the 347 sits slightly more forward then the 289 did I thought they were the same damn thing on the outside but they do have small differences I guess

 

[sixtyfive]

You don't have an aluminum flywheel do you? Have you checked the timing lately? If the timing has moved and is now retarded, that'll do it too.

I do not have an aluminum flywheel, and looking back that was something I definatly should have spent the extra cash on. Ill check my timing tommorow morning and let you know what I find...

 

[Rusty67]

Check your pedal support bushings and all the mechanical pushrod linkage to see if anything is worn out or bent. Maybe the clutch is engauging funny because of worn parts.

 

[sixtyfive]

My dad mentioned that we may just need to adjust the where the clutch linkage hooks up to the threaded rod coming through the firewall, centerforce along with most clutch manufacturers recommend adjusting this during and after the break in period

 

[D.Hearne]

An aluminum flywheel will just make the problem worse. You need the extra weight of the iron to supply more torque to get the car moving off the line. I agree with what Rusty posted about checking all the linkage for wear, especially the pedal support bushings. They're just pot metal and once the nylon bushing's inside wear thru, the pot metal goes fast. Also check the "Z" bar to make sure it's not flexing when you try engaging the clutch.

 

[sixtyfive]

An aluminum flywheel will just make the problem worse. You need the extra weight of the iron to supply more torque to get the car moving off the line. I agree with what Rusty posted about checking all the linkage for wear, especially the pedal support bushings. They're just pot metal and once the nylon bushing's inside wear thru, the pot metal goes fast. Also check the "Z" bar to make sure it's not flexing when you try engaging the clutch.

Z bar appears to be quite solid. Dumb question but what are the pedal support bushings??

 

[valley firearms]

bushings

The bushings are located in your brake pedal and clutch pedal sleeve. The sleeve has a pin that runs through them. The pin holds the pedals inside your housing that is bolted to the firewall/dash. Some people are converting to roller bearings instead of plastic bushings. This make a smoother clutch/brake operation.

 

[D.Hearne]

Look up under the dash, there's a metal channel supporting the clutch and brake pedals, these are hung thru two pot metal bushings with nylon bushings separating the pedal rods from the pot metal bushings. The nylon bushings don't last forever, twenty years ago when I had my 67 big block fastback, it had already worn away both the nylon and pot metal bushings and was well on the way thru the support. Only cure then is to replace the metal support..

 

[valley firearms]

assembly

Here is the whole assy outside the car. You can see the pin that runs through the housing and pedals. The bushings are in the pedal housings that the pin runs through. There are also brass bushings in the housing itself. If either are worn it can cause binding.

 

[sixtyfive]

Thank you both, pictures are always awesome... ill be able to check it out tommorow morning

 

[D.Hearne]

Here is the whole assy outside the car. You can see the pin that runs through the housing and pedals. The bushings are in the pedal housings that the pin runs through. There are also brass bushings in the housing itself. If either are worn it can cause binding.

No brass bushings in the originals---pot metal only.

 

[69gmachine]

I used the same linkage which was on my 289, im almoast positive that it is the stock linkage, ill get a picture right now

And im in my work clothes so I was unable to get a picture from below where it goes into the bell housing

fyi -- the washers were to make the linkage arm sit square due to the fact that the 347 sits slightly more forward then the 289 did I thought they were the same damn thing on the outside but they do have small differences I guess

The add on clutch bracket you have was designed to work with the stock aluminum bellhousing which has thicker bosses for the bolts than the scattershield flange.