changed my mind on the new motor

[ECU5.0]

alright, its time to tear the half built motor down and start from scratch. im gonna take the block to get bored .030 over. im getting the block vatted, bored, recondition the rods, put the new pistons on the rods, new rings, new freeze plugs, mill the heads, 3 angle valve job, and new valve springs and retainers for right around 600 bucks. im planning on getting the heads shaved to up the compression to like 10:1. does anyone see anything wrong with doing any of this. the only thing im really worried about is PV clearance issues with the trick flow stage 1 cam with the 1.7 rockers and shaved heads. total lift is gonna be .528/.540. the cam is gonna be advanced 4 degrees. should i even worry about clearance issues or do i need to re-evaluate my setup? thanks in advance

 

[my$100project]

I woulnd't think clearance would be an issue. Best person to ask is the machine shop your giving your $$$$ too. They'll know for sure if it'll work.

 

[ECU5.0]

yeah i figured it wouldnt be. ill have to ask him next week when take the block in. anyone else have any opinions

 

[04sleeper]

I would clay the pistions and measure just to be on the safe side. You might have to notch the pistions with that setup.

 

[ECU5.0]

I would clay the pistions and measure just to be on the safe side. You might have to notch the pistions with that setup.

alright, so to clay the pistons i just put some clay on top of them where the valves would possibly hit and put the heads on (with or without the headgasket?) and rotate the motor over by hand and than measure the thickness of the clay correct?

 

[Grn92LX]

Most aftermarket pistons have TONS of clearence. I don't even think i'd bother checking with a tiny tfs 1 cam and aftermarket pistons with deep reliefs. I run probe forged pistons. One thing i'd recommend for you is since your keeping your stock rods, upgrade to good arp bolts. A good flat top piston and a 60 ish cc head is usually enough for over 10:1 dependsing on piston cc, block deck and gasket thickness. I'm running around 11:1 in my 347. zero deck, .039" gasket, 55.6cc heads and -4cc pistons.

You should degree it in. Don't just line up the dots and advance it 4* w/o knowing where it is. The cam is built with advance. I'd talk to a GOOD cam grinder and pay him a few bucks and see where to install that cam. I've seen 108* centerline be the hot ticket.

 

[ECU5.0]

so youre saying that even if i install the cam 4 degrees advance per the timing chain that i have it wont be advanced 4 degrees? hmm, i need to find the cam card and look at it

 

[04sleeper]

alright, so to clay the pistons i just put some clay on top of them where the valves would possibly hit and put the heads on (with or without the headgasket?) and rotate the motor over by hand and than measure the thickness of the clay correct?

Yes you are correct. Do it with a head gasket in place.

 

[90mustangGT]

To raise compression I would do the pistons, not shave the heads since your doing a rebuild anyways. What valves, stock? You should need to.

Hey ECU, you live in NC, I live in GA... I have a new 306 shortblock unfired. Forged pistons, machined crank and rods, assembled, all machined by some guys who build pro-50 cars for $500, let me know if intersted. The pistons won't agree with the TFS heads because they are for inline heads, it's a flat tappet motor though. PM me if interested, we could meet up.

 

[ECU5.0]

To raise compression I would do the pistons, not shave the heads since your doing a rebuild anyways. What valves, stock? You should need to.

Hey ECU, you live in NC, I live in GA... I have a new 306 shortblock unfired. Forged pistons, machined crank and rods, assembled, all machined by some guys who build pro-50 cars for $500, let me know if intersted. The pistons won't agree with the TFS heads because they are for inline heads, it's a flat tappet motor though. PM me if interested, we could meet up.

i appreciate the offer man, i would have jumped all over it if i had saw this earlier. i just took my block and rods to the machine shop this afternoon and they will be ready probably tuesday.

ps. does anyone have any insight on what i should do about the cam. install dot to dot or install it four degrees advanced according to the timing set i have or find out how to install it at 108* centerline, which ive heard from a few different people to be the best setup. thanks

 

[90mustangGT]

i appreciate the offer man, i would have jumped all over it if i had saw this earlier. i just took my block and rods to the machine shop this afternoon and they will be ready probably tuesday.

ps. does anyone have any insight on what i should do about the cam. install dot to dot or install it four degrees advanced according to the timing set i have or find out how to install it at 108* centerline, which ive heard from a few different people to be the best setup. thanks

I would really consider getting a degree wheel and doing it right, otherwise you are just guessing.

 

[ECU5.0]

I would really consider getting a degree wheel and doing it right, otherwise you are just guessing.

hmm.....well, i guess im gonna have to put that on pops card also...since he is the one pushing me to get this motor done, and paying for everything because i was taking too long to build it. thanks for the help