Changedmy PIP sensor, now problems

[99FiveOh]

I just changed my PIP sensor, but now since I completed the repair, my car hesitates really bad when you floor it, and it detonates like crazy! The timing before the repair was at 9*, just a hair under the 10* mark. Now I have it set all the way on 2* and it still pings.

I never seemed to have these problems with 5 speed cars, are these AODE computers just that much more picky?

Evidently the new PIP works fine since the car runs forever and doesn't shut off on me anymore.

Any suggestions? No codes, no CE light.

 

[Chythar]

Hmmm. Could you have installed anything in the dizzy wrong? Or put something in backwards? If you have access to another dizzy I would swap them and see if the problem goes away. You might be able to buy one and return it after your test.

 

[HISSIN50]

Not trying to insult anyone but I have brainfarts sometimes:

Timing is being tested with the SPOUT out?
The dialback on the timing light is zeroed?
The car runs decently - it's not 180* out? You probably didnt turn the motor over while the dizzy was yanked.

The most likely thing I can think of is that perhaps the rotor didnt line up with number 1 exactly. This will hose your injector timing (you fog the cylinders instead of misting them).

 

[final5-0]

This will hose your injector timing (you fog the cylinders instead of misting them).

I looked at this and just couldn't get it outta my head

Kinda sounds like a likely title to a Country Western Song

or

Describes my ... timing ... When I try and logically deal with women

Grady

 

[HISSIN50]

I looked at this and just couldn't get it outta my head

Kinda sounds like a likely title to a Country Western Song

or

Describes my ... timing ... When I try and logically deal with women

Grady

 

[99FiveOh]

Here's my way of thinking:

I installed the dizzy and the car started and idled fine. I checked the timing and I was only a few degrees off, so that tells me I got the rotor back to where it started.

Also, even if it was pointed away from 1, doesn't it stand to reason, since the spark and fuel functions get their point of reference from the same reluctor wheel, that if it's timed correctly the injectors are seeing the same reference? When you turn the distributor to time the car, it is like making the fine adjustment to bring everything into balance. It's like when people say "you're a tooth off" lol.

 

[99FiveOh]

Not trying to insult anyone but I have brainfarts sometimes:

Timing is being tested with the SPOUT out?
The dialback on the timing light is zeroed?
The car runs decently - it's not 180* out? You probably didnt turn the motor over while the dizzy was yanked.

The most likely thing I can think of is that perhaps the rotor didnt line up with number 1 exactly. This will hose your injector timing (you fog the cylinders instead of misting them).

Spout was out when I timed it

No dial on this timing gun

Never disturbed the motor while dizzy was out

I went back to another thread where I talked about the coil plug being messed up. I unplugged and plugged it in a few times and one the way to work it had nice acceleration all the way up.

A funny thing though, is it normal for the stock tachs to skip big chunks of RPM while your foot is through the floorboard?

 

[HISSIN50]

I was trying to be diplomatic but it was too vague.

The blunt way of saying it is to make sure the wires are not shifted on the cap (and that the number one wire is on the correct tower for the number one plug). Cylinder one uses a shorter pulse, which is how the EEC indexes the starting point for the firing order.

 

[lees gt]

I've had every prob known to man on my GT,If you're missing chunks on the tacho at wot then you still have a pickup issue as the tacho takes pulses from the pip signal,did you get the shims in the dizzy back in correctly or the shaft will bounce up and down at high RPM..One other thing,normal 302's and the H.O'S have a different firing order if you had the leads off.
Lee

 

[99FiveOh]

There were no shims in this distributor. And I marked all the corresponding wires with their towers on the cap. My plug wires are original and have each number on them, so I just took that number and marked it on the cap next to where it goes. they are all back to where they belong.

And I always thought the Tach got it's reference from the coil. or is it from the wire on the coil that comes form the PIP? Either way, it's got good acceleration now, the tach just jumps.

 

[99FiveOh]

Well, after many days of trying this and that, I finally decided to pull the dizzy back out and replace the PIP yet again. Went to Napa this time and now the car purrs like a kitten. I could tell when I first started it up and the smell of the exhuast was like it should be!

I also changed my balancer so this time I was able to get it correctly on 12*. No pinging, no breaking up at high RPM's and no more skipping giant chunks of RPM's on the tach.

Safe to say, I nipped this problem in the bud! And with the new balancer, it's smooth as silk too!!! Thanks everyone for your help and support on this issue. :SNSign:

 

[desertcox05]

good job. when i did my dizzy i noticed the HB needed to be R&R'd too.