Changing gears on a 94/95

Indiana_Jeff

New Member
Feb 7, 2003
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I really want to do this, but I don't know what is involved. What effects does this have on my computer, speedo, are there other parts that need to be changed in conjunction with gears. I really have no clue here and any help you guys can give, the better. I'm thinking of 3.73's but... I have an auto so 4.10's isn't out of the question either.

All your replies are appreciated.
 
if you have an auto and you're not planning on using a power adder go 4.10s. If you're planning on getting a power adder I would go with 3.73s. When gears are installed, there is a speedo gear which goes into the transmission with the speedo cable. This calibrates your speedometer to read the correct mileage and speed...hope this helps you.

Matt
 
4.10s are out of the question unless you get a chip :p

But gears will screw with your speedo and mileage meter. People will drive 700 miles and it would read 1500 miles. As for your speedo... you can get that corrected with buying a $2 drive gear from the store .. i think its like 23 tooth gear with the 3.73s
 
Thanks for the info so far. When I make the change, in addition to the Ring Gear and Pinion, what else do I need?

Speedo Gear.
Friction Modifier.

Is there anything else I'm overlooking? Gefracing sells 3 different install kits that include : PINION & CARRIER SHIMS, CRUSH SLEEVE, PINION SEAL, PINION NUT, RING GEAR BOLTS AND COVER GASKET, PINION GEAR AND CARRIER BEARINGS, AXLE SHAFT BEARINGS AND AXLE SHAFT SEALS.

Should I be buying this full kit as well? Do I need to?

The reason why I want to make sure I get every last nut I'll need is because I'll most likely doing the change myself. With my lack of experience, this might not seem wise... but I love learning about my car by actually doing the changes myself and not just taking it into a shop.
 
"The reason why I want to make sure I get every last nut I'll need is because I'll most likely doing the change myself." you may want to rethink this if not done right you will need to replace just about everything back there. you have to set the back lash to proper spec, torque the nut on the pinion to spec. It will cost $$ for a shop to do it or you can do it yourself and cost yourself twice the $$$ for screwing thing up back there. just my .02
 
wytstang said:
"The reason why I want to make sure I get every last nut I'll need is because I'll most likely doing the change myself." you may want to rethink this if not done right you will need to replace just about everything back there. you have to set the back lash to proper spec, torque the nut on the pinion to spec. It will cost $$ for a shop to do it or you can do it yourself and cost yourself twice the $$$ for screwing thing up back there. just my .02

from shoping around for someone to do my gears, it is better in the long run to have a shop do your gears and also order everything for you, you tell them the gears you want and they take care of the rest, that is what i did and i also have a lifetime warranty, so if anything back there ever breaks i get it fixed for free, i noticed alot of shops do this, i was going to buy the parts myself and have a shop do it but they said they could give me the warranty if they bought the parts. so i didnt pay more for the parts or anything , i just payed the installation fee and that was it. it was $200 bucks to install them and it cost $350 bucks for all the materials (including fluids) not to bad especially with the warranty included. also if you do plan to do it yourself still then buy the installtion kit that includes everything but wheel bearings, unless you think you need them.
 
You know what... Considering my complete lack of experience, it may be just a whole lot easier to get someone to do everything for me. As much as I'd like to learn it, like someone else mentioned, it might cost me a lot more in the long run.