Chassis Pivot Bolt Removal-LCA installation

Rusty67 said:

The main thing to watch out for is if you have an aftermarket exhaust. You might have to unbolt the back half of the exhaust and pull them off the hangers to get access to the frame bolts. You might want to spray some liquid wrench in there the day before you do it just to loosen it all up if there is any rust. Make sure you have the proper sized wrenches/sockets and it will go easily.

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+10
When I started to unbolt the bolt you're talking about, I couldn't get the bolt completely out of the chasis, and I cursed the history of man kind and there mothers until I figured out that I could unbolt the exhaust hangers and push the exhaust to the side to completely remove the bolt. Wish the directions would've told me that. Now I owe Mankind and there mother's an apology:grouphug:.

Unbolt the catback from the mid pipe.
Remove the tail pipe exhaust hanger.
Remove the muffler hanger.
Wrench on outside nut, impact gun on inside bolt.

They'll come off plenty easy. I take off the nut then thread it back on a few threads, then take off the rear bolt at the knuckle/axle. All while supported by a screw jack (I suppose a floor jack would suffice if you don't have a lift). Remove the rear bolt, lower the screw jack, a few inches down the LCA and spring assembly practically fall out. Then remove the front bolt.

When you use the screw jack to compress the spring installing the LCA again, the holes will not want to line up. A second screw jack carefully placed under the dog bone will help line up the holes EXACTLY with no pushing, shoving, or grunting required.

No, you'll need a deep socket, or an extension to get through the torque box area to that bolt.
If you don't have at least two jacks you'll have a ton of fun.

Get that car as high up on the jack stands as you possibly can, you'll need a ton of room to swing big breaker bars around and to lower that LCA to the point where there is no spring pressure.

The mufflers are what get in the way. You'll probably be easiest to just remove everything after the H pipe in your case.

Keep in mind the bolts should be retorqued while under normal load, not with the suspension free hanging. This does matter, as I found out the hard way. Bushing bind, much?

If you have any issues, my services are for hire at a very reasonable rate (compared to most mustang shops at $100/hr) in the central NJ/PA area. Lift, air tools, teaching or just doing it myself offered. Any nut and bolt on a Honda or Ford except audio and body work.