Check engine light only at idle....supercharged 7" crank pulley/no bypass valve....

after installing the 7" supercharger crank pulley and "tweeking" the idle and adj tps sensor....i now have a check engine light that pops on and off during idle and very low throttle (not in gear)....i am thinking that i may have the idle set too low because it is bearly at 650 - 750 rpm's and is somewaht choppy....vacuum at 16"hg at idle.....i havent had the time to readjust....but can it be that now that i have the 7" crank pulley....and no bypass valve that there is too much air being forced in the engine at idle creating an extremely lean condition??/ the air/fuel gauge reads very low/red at idle as well....when i give it gas...the light goes out.....but when the check engine light comes on....the idle raises to about 800rpm and is very smooth.....what about drilling a hole in the tb butterfly plate...............im confused
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart .