Clean your MAF!!!

Black95GTS

Black95GTS

Active Member
Jan 8, 2004
1,644
3
38
Marlborough, MA
#1
So after being on this site for a while now and reading all about the magic of cleaning the MAF, I actually did it. Five and a half q-tips of black crap later, I fired her up, let her idle for a couple minutes, then took her on some backroads for some WOT runs to let the computer do its thing.
:D
If you haven't done this, do it immediately! :hail2: It seems everything runs better and smoother. I even had a tiny bit of idle surge after my 65mm was installed and its gone now, it idles ROCK steady. The SOTP performance was noticeable throughout the power band. And I'm even inclined to believe it this time too, as to be honest with you I didn't think it would do anything for me.

adam
 

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#2
Yes. It's that good. If you've never cleaned it, chances are that you're not running to full potential. Glad to hear it helped ya'. Now, every few months, you'll be wanting to clean it (just in case), lol.
 
#6
95BLKGT5.0 said:
How about a step by step sticky on how to clean your MAF.
I am just worried I will break the little wire.
Click to expand...

Disconnect the battery. Dissassemble your air intake tube and remove the MAF housing. It's a cast piece that has a computer module the size of a business card. Take the housing and computer module (which says MAF on right on the black plastic) to your work bench (after disconnecting the wiring of course!).

Take our your tamper proof Torx20 driver and unbolt the module from the housing, two bolts, being VERY CAREFUL when you withdraw and expose the filaments. If you damage them at all, toss the MAF and buy a new one. Carefully with a q-tip soaked in alcohol, brush the filaments down until you've gone through enough q-tips that they aren't dirty after swabbing it.

The MAF filaments aren't that easily breakable, but just be careful anyway. While the module is off the housing, clean the housing with your choice of cleaners (I used carb cleaner). Bolt the now cleaned MAF back into the MAF housing. Reassemble the air intake tube. Reconnect the battery. Fire up the car and let it sit while the computer relearns the correct idle after you erased it by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. You also want the computer to relearn everything because it will now be getting different load readings after you cleaned the MAF.

Take the car for a spin and make sure to make a couple WOT runs. The computer also needs to relearn this setting as well. Finally, reset all your radio presets because you lost them when you disconnected the battery.

enjoy,

Adam
 
#9
xr8d302 said:
Subscribed...now i just need a torx20 driver
Click to expand...

Make sure it's the tamper proof T-20. It has that damn nipple in the middle.

I replaced mine with normal screws last time I cleaned it. It got really annoying digging for that damn bit every time I had to clean it.

The previous owner had his MAF replaced because he put a k&n on it, and the element got dirty....what a goon.
Scott
 
#11
i used a regular TORX bit, and grinded the safty thing down with my dremel, i've cleaned twice, and both times its beel really clean, and no power increase :(. I used carb cleaner the last time, Electronic Contact Cleaner would work good also.
 
#12
I don't follow why cleaning the MAF would have any impact on WOT. As I understand it, at WOT, the computer runs off it's programmed fuel curve (open loop). So it's not even looking at output from the MAF - right?

I could see how normal driving (closed loop) would be effected by a properly opperating MAF.
 
#13
GRGT1994 said:
I don't follow why cleaning the MAF would have any impact on WOT. As I understand it, at WOT, the computer runs off it's programmed fuel curve (open loop). So it's not even looking at output from the MAF - right?

I could see how normal driving (closed loop) would be effected by a properly opperating MAF.
Click to expand...


The computer runs on "open loop" for the first 120 seconds of running, and then goes closed loop. From there it only goes back to open loop when you put the pedal to the floor (WOT).


In open loop operation, the computer reads from ONLY the MAF, ECT, IAT and calculates fuel pulse width from their input. So that is why cleaning the maf & IAT will effect WOT a/f ratio.

Now at closed loop, you know, just putt putting around, part throttle operation, the 120 seconds after startup has allowed the heater in the O2 to get it to operating temperature, and it reads from that sensor, and that sensor alone. In the case of the mustang, we have 2 O2's, so it reads from both and calculates fuel pulse width solely from O2 sensors, and disregards the MAF/IAT/ECT input.

Side note: The EGR is also involved in the closed loop operation. Also, global spark timing changes are also made along with the fuel adjustments. And once in closed loop, the a/f ratio will be cycling above/below stoich. Think of it like a square wave, it will be rich for a bit, then the comp cuts fuel and it will run lean for a bit, then the comp will add fuel, and it will go back to rich, always bouncing around the 14.64 a/f ratio. That is why the advent of computers & O2 sensors has allowed for much tighter emissions output; It literally does thousands of calculations ever second just to keep the a/f around stoich.

But the MAF/ect/iat sensors are still partially active in closed loop, and if their input is way off compared to the input of the O2 sensors, it will trip a code of "maf voltage higher/lower expected", thus activating the MIL on the console. I believe once the MIL has tripped, the comp will run in KAM mode until it's alleviated. But someone correct me if I am wrong.

Make sense? PM me if it doesn't.
Scott
 
#14
You don't need a special screw driver (t-20) unless you already have one lol. I just used some muscle and a regular screw driver and got them off. I replaced them with normal screws afterwards too.

Very simple to do, just be careful. I gently rubbed the q-tip w/ alcohol over the delicate wire and that's all there is to it. Also, it wouldn't hurt to clean the airfilter too by using some simple green on your air filter while your cleaning. Last time I just used my air compressor and blew the air filter.... not sure which way was better though lol.

engine.jpg
 
#15
it is probably the easiest and best bang for the buck... even if you have to buy the T20 bits and the rubbing alcohol or whatever.. it can only help... I did it about 4 months ago and all I can say is WOW....
 
#16
Cleaning the MAF and IAT sensor got rid of my pinging at WOT.

BTW, use an electronics cleaner that says it doesn't leave a residue and you don't really have to take the electronics out. You can just hose the crap out of it with the aerosol can through the air port. That way you don't risk damaging the filament. :nice:
 
#17
I talked to a guy today that said he simply cleans his MAF with a baggie, and some electronic contact cleaner. Put's the whole thing in, shakes it up a bit, and it cleans the whole thing. Is he a moron, or is this such a bad idea?
 
#18
xr8d302 said:
I talked to a guy today that said he simply cleans his MAF with a baggie, and some electronic contact cleaner. Put's the whole thing in, shakes it up a bit, and it cleans the whole thing. Is he a moron, or is this such a bad idea?
Click to expand...
I don't think it would hurt anything, but I like the spray electronics cleaner method myself (I think it's made by CRC, I bought it at AutoZone. . .) Anyway, it's the one that is safe for plastics and leaves no residue. Just take the MAF (and IAT) out, give 'em a good hosing (with the electronics cleaner, not a water hose) and let them dry. Re-install, and let 'er rip!
 
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