f2 34 is good and has power with key on . the clicking is not just none time when i power up ignition it goes crazy ..and its not all the time if i turn it off then back onand there is no crazy clicking car will start but if ccrm is clicking car wont startDid you read the information given in the links? Especially the part about testing for key on power in fuse F2.34? The power for fuse F2.34 comes directly from the ignition switch. So that is a quick functional test of the ignition switch. If there's no power at all INTO fuse F2.34 look for a problem upstream of fuse F2.34 with the usual problem source being the ignition switch.
Best to use a test light that will "load" the circuit.
IF you see that power is coming and going from fuse F2.34 this would explain WHY the CCRM is clicking. Why? Because F2.34 is the pilot duty circuit that causes the CCRM to "latch up" and power the down stream devices.
If you are interested in doing a full exhaustive test of the ignition switch there's a pinpoint test in the service manual. If interested in getting a full copy of the Ford service manual and wiring diagrams for your car I maybe able to help. PM if interested.
However, if this were my car and all fuses are good and there's no key on power into fuse F2.34, I would replace the ignition switch just for trouble shooting reasons. The part is not all that expensive and not all that hard for the DIY'er to change.
Note, that changing the ignition switch does not require PATS to be re-programmed.
Note, IF power is solid in and out of fuse F2.34, You did check all of the grounds around the radiator core support right?
i cant test the fuses when problem is taking place because im driving when it startsIt would help if you tested fuse F2.34, F2.2, and F2.8 and let us know what the power status of these fuses are when the problem is happening. This will help narrow down if this is an ignition switch problem or a CCRM problem.
OK done f2 34 and f2 2 have constant power when the problem is happening no drop ...So what next? I don't think im ever gonna figure this one outGet yourself an "add a fuse" or "add a circuit". Use that the add the pig tail to fuse F2.34. Put a test light on the pig tail. Put the test light where it can be seen while driving. This will give a visual indication of the power status of the particular circuit with the add a fuse installed.
If you find that fuse F2.34 does not loose power during "the event", move the "add a fuse" to F2.2 and repeat. IF the power to F2.2 drops then suspect a CCRM problem.
If fuse F2.34 has solid power then the problem is not in the ignition switch.OK done f2 34 and f2 2 have constant power when the problem is happening no drop ...So what next? I don't think im ever gonna figure this one out
Should I "assume" that replacing the CCRM did not fix the problem? You have been adding information to someone else's thread which makes it hard to figure out what the state of affairs really is.I just changed the ccrm and it was fine for a whole day I thought I was all good then about an hour ago it did it AGAIN. I'M SO OVER IT. why me!
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