CLICK COMING FROM MODULE IN FRONT RIGHT FENDER

232937 · Jun 24, 2019

WHEN KEY IS IN RUN POS. CLICKING COMES FROM FRONT RIGHT FENDER IF I CYCLE KEY A FEW TIMES THEN IT WILL START

wmburns · Jun 24, 2019

I going to assume this a 1999-2004 model year Mustang.

The thing in the front right hand fender well is the CCRM. It is a set of relays that power the PCM, fuel pump, cooling fan, and AC clutch. Start by checking the grounds around the radiator core support.

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To anyone else reading any of my posts I usually include the line: Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system! Cut corners here at your own risk I'm a big believer in starting with the basics. As such I...

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1996+ Crank with no start check list

1997 mustang wont ignite

Hello lets start with I have a 97 mustang gt v8 standard I had new engine transmission ect put all new well last month i shut the car off and had no power at all bought a new battery and alternator got all power back but it wont ignite brought to mechnic for a month all sensors codes ect are fine

www.allfordmustangs.com

Pay attention to the part about fuse Fuse F2.34.

232937 · Jun 25, 2019

232937 said:
WHEN KEY IS IN RUN POS. CLICKING COMES FROM FRONT RIGHT FENDER IF I CYCLE KEY A FEW TIMES THEN IT WILL START

THE RELAYS GO APE AND MAKE THE CAR NOT START BUT IF KEY IS CYCLED ON OFF 3 X THEN IT STOPS AND WILL START RIGHT UP? WHY?

wmburns · Jun 25, 2019

It would help if you tested fuse F2.34, F2.2, and F2.8 and let us know what the power status of these fuses are when the problem is happening. This will help narrow down if this is an ignition switch problem or a CCRM problem.

232937 · Jul 12, 2019

how can I test ignition switch

wmburns · Jul 13, 2019

Did you read the information given in the links? Especially the part about testing for key on power in fuse F2.34? The power for fuse F2.34 comes directly from the ignition switch. So that is a quick functional test of the ignition switch. If there's no power at all INTO fuse F2.34 look for a problem upstream of fuse F2.34 with the usual problem source being the ignition switch.

Best to use a test light that will "load" the circuit.

IF you see that power is coming and going from fuse F2.34 this would explain WHY the CCRM is clicking. Why? Because F2.34 is the pilot duty circuit that causes the CCRM to "latch up" and power the down stream devices.

If you are interested in doing a full exhaustive test of the ignition switch there's a pinpoint test in the service manual. If interested in getting a full copy of the Ford service manual and wiring diagrams for your car I maybe able to help. PM if interested.

However, if this were my car and all fuses are good and there's no key on power into fuse F2.34, I would replace the ignition switch just for trouble shooting reasons. The part is not all that expensive and not all that hard for the DIY'er to change.

Note, that changing the ignition switch does not require PATS to be re-programmed.

Note, IF power is solid in and out of fuse F2.34, You did check all of the grounds around the radiator core support right?

232937 · Jul 14, 2019

wmburns said:
Did you read the information given in the links? Especially the part about testing for key on power in fuse F2.34? The power for fuse F2.34 comes directly from the ignition switch. So that is a quick functional test of the ignition switch. If there's no power at all INTO fuse F2.34 look for a problem upstream of fuse F2.34 with the usual problem source being the ignition switch.

Best to use a test light that will "load" the circuit.

IF you see that power is coming and going from fuse F2.34 this would explain WHY the CCRM is clicking. Why? Because F2.34 is the pilot duty circuit that causes the CCRM to "latch up" and power the down stream devices.

If you are interested in doing a full exhaustive test of the ignition switch there's a pinpoint test in the service manual. If interested in getting a full copy of the Ford service manual and wiring diagrams for your car I maybe able to help. PM if interested.

However, if this were my car and all fuses are good and there's no key on power into fuse F2.34, I would replace the ignition switch just for trouble shooting reasons. The part is not all that expensive and not all that hard for the DIY'er to change.

Note, that changing the ignition switch does not require PATS to be re-programmed.

Note, IF power is solid in and out of fuse F2.34, You did check all of the grounds around the radiator core support right?

f2 34 is good and has power with key on . the clicking is not just none time when i power up ignition it goes crazy ..and its not all the time if i turn it off then back onand there is no crazy clicking car will start but if ccrm is clicking car wont start

232937 · Jul 14, 2019

maybe its the electrical component the ignition plugs into ? i believe its part of the switch but not the cylinder

232937 · Jul 14, 2019

wmburns said:
It would help if you tested fuse F2.34, F2.2, and F2.8 and let us know what the power status of these fuses are when the problem is happening. This will help narrow down if this is an ignition switch problem or a CCRM problem.

i cant test the fuses when problem is taking place because im driving when it starts

wmburns · Jul 15, 2019

Get yourself an "add a fuse" or "add a circuit". Use that the add the pig tail to fuse F2.34. Put a test light on the pig tail. Put the test light where it can be seen while driving. This will give a visual indication of the power status of the particular circuit with the add a fuse installed.

If you find that fuse F2.34 does not loose power during "the event", move the "add a fuse" to F2.2 and repeat. IF the power to F2.2 drops then suspect a CCRM problem.

232937 · Jul 16, 2019

wmburns said:
Get yourself an "add a fuse" or "add a circuit". Use that the add the pig tail to fuse F2.34. Put a test light on the pig tail. Put the test light where it can be seen while driving. This will give a visual indication of the power status of the particular circuit with the add a fuse installed.

If you find that fuse F2.34 does not loose power during "the event", move the "add a fuse" to F2.2 and repeat. IF the power to F2.2 drops then suspect a CCRM problem.

OK done f2 34 and f2 2 have constant power when the problem is happening no drop ...So what next? I don't think im ever gonna figure this one out

wmburns · Jul 16, 2019

232937 said:
OK done f2 34 and f2 2 have constant power when the problem is happening no drop ...So what next? I don't think im ever gonna figure this one out

If fuse F2.34 has solid power then the problem is not in the ignition switch.

Further, IF fuse F2.2 has solid power that means the CCRM is actually staying latched and powering the PCM/ignition circuit.

Based upon the evidence are you looking for an educated guess? The clicking noise is coming from the fuel pump relay inside the CCRM. This is causing the fuel pump to lose power and therefore causing the "no start".

If you absolutely want to know for certain of the diagnosis it will be necessary to repeat the test light tests at the trunk mounted IFS switch. For the GT, the fuel pump relay is slaved inside the CCRM so there isn't an external cause for the problem. If this were my car I wouldn't have a problem in replacing the CCRM.

OBTW, I think that you have "figured it out". Good work to stick with it.

Here's an example of the part. Note, it says cooling fan relay but the CCRM actually controls the PCM, fuel pump, cooling fan, and AC clutch.

FOUR SEASONS 37517

More Information for FOUR SEASONS 37517

232937 · Jul 19, 2019

there would be no good reason to even bother testing the ifs switch because I have it bypassed...wait.... you don t think that could be the cause of my issue....do you burns?hey I also wanted to thank you for helping me out with this .. Im sure your time is worth a lot of $$ just wanted to tell you that I appreciate you

232937 · Jul 19, 2019

so replace the ccrm and go from there right? that's my next step?

wmburns · Jul 19, 2019

If this were my car with the symptoms and test results given in the thread, I would replace the CCRM.

I generally try to promote replacing parts after test results point to a bad part. This is one case where the symptoms and test results point towards a bad part.

wmburns · Aug 11, 2019

232937 said:
I just changed the ccrm and it was fine for a whole day I thought I was all good then about an hour ago it did it AGAIN. I'M SO OVER IT. why me!

Should I "assume" that replacing the CCRM did not fix the problem? You have been adding information to someone else's thread which makes it hard to figure out what the state of affairs really is.

Did any of the symptoms change?

I'm also assuming this isn't a Cobra. Why does this make a difference? Because for the Cobra the IFS switch is wired in the fuel pump pilot duty circuit. This could "cause" the CCRM fuel pump relay to "bounce".

What was the condition of the CCRM connector? Any evidence of corrosion, water or rodent activity? WHY is this important? Because none of the tests done so far can positively rule out a wiring fault or loose connection. Further the recommendations made assume that your tests results are accurate.

Explain HOW the actual test of power in fuse F2.34 was done. This F2.34 test does assume that the wiring is intact between F2.34 and the CCRM.

Are you POSITIVE there haven't been any wiring modifications done to this car? For example an after market alarm system with an ignition kill switch?

My Ford wiring diagram say that the F2.34 pilot duty circuit passes through connector C214 pin #6 WH/LB located "kick panel, RH side". This offers a spot inside the car to "split" the circuit and install a test light and be able to monitor while driving. IF the test light blinks while the problem occurs this will give some important information. Further if the light stays on solid this also gives information.

The other way to do this is by monitoring CCRM pin #13 with a test light. But that's a harder location to monitor while driving.

Even better. Monitor CCRM pin #5 (DG/YE) which is the power feed to the fuel pump. As well as CCRM pin #12 (RD) wire.

kick panel, RH side C214

232937 · Aug 12, 2019

After I replaced the ccrm it worked fine for almost a whole day and then it did it to me again at the end of the day after driving it around

Decipha · Aug 12, 2019

I seen someone wire the fan and main power wire backwards after doing a truck battery relocation and some kind of miraculous way it ran but did some odd things similar to this.

Not saying that's your problem but I would VERIFY the fan wiring is correct and intact and that the main power wiring is fine as well.

CLICK COMING FROM MODULE IN FRONT RIGHT FENDER

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