Clutch Adjustment

TOOLOW91 said:

This escalated quickly .

I've had a alum quadrant , stock style cable and MM fwa from the day I 5 speed swapped the car 5 years ago . I've had stock , ram , centeforce , McLeod single and dual disc clutch . No issues with fire wall flex .

I think that's more of an issue when you use the cheap adjustable cables in conjunction with a fwa making the cable overly tight

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My cable was from Ford ( always ). In your defense, one of my cables did get a little close to my headers....that caused the vinyl inside to meet and tighten up on the cable in the sleeve.

To the left of the cable hole in the firewall there's a 90° lip...it should be straight. Any cracks around the hole are a no go.

The only car the firewall flexed on was my race car....I've seen it on others, too.

If I can help one person to not go through what I've been through then I'm a happy camper.

DSB88GT said:

Changing it sounds like a great idea...until I contort myself and look up under the dash. Then I realize it would be a colossal pain in the a$$ to swap out. I'm not one of the young 20 something's on here...I'm mid 40's!

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Me too, man. It's not that bad. It is easier if you pull the drivers seat out, lay on your back, and cus a little...

I can do it with my eyes closed now....but I've worked on a lot of mustangs over the years.

I would replace it rather than get towed home or be stranded. I would just consider it preventative maintenance.

Those plastic quadrants do not belong anywhere near a high performance car in my opinion, and anyone still driving their foxbody today with one of those in their car.. is on borrowed time.

I had one break on me coming off the center lane of a toll booth many years ago, scary stuff to lose control like that, no bueno..never again..today I run a complete Steeda set up. Shifter, fwa, quadrant and a Ford cable. Flawless shifting and peace of mind that I won't be left stranded.

karthief said:

I've been under my dash a few times, I'm 6' plus and my back hurts just thinking about it, Take'n the seat out helps. If yours works properly leave it, or change it, either way I ain't help'n ya!

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Haha...I'll let that pass only cause you're in Florida and I'm in Pittsburgh. Noway would my Stang make to Fl!

Noobz347 said:

I feel ya. This is one of those things that in my opinion, is as necessary for safety as are subframe connectors. This is a 22 year old piece of nylon plastic. The prawl and teeth have seen countless cycles of use.



I'm not sure what the service life was supposed to be for those 3 little teeth but the limit for mine (15 years ago) was a Centerforce Clutch (arguably, one of the lighter street setups).


Edit: Show me a billet aluminum version of the OEM, I'm on it. Anyone?

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Yeah...you guys have me thinking now. Anyone in Pittsburgh that can give me a hand??

Maximum Motorsport's here. I cheated though and had the kid at my buddy's shop wrestle with the quadrant lol.

Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Aftermarket solutions to the problem:
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40



Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt
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