Just picked up a 92 5.0 last night, the clutch has to be pressed all the way to the floor before it works plus it's just hard to press, will adjusting the cable under the dash bring it cloister to the driver rather than the floor?
Clutch All The Way To The Floor And Hard...
- Thread starter billison
- Start date
Jarrod@latemodel
Late Model Restoration
It should work. If you have a fire wall adjuster as well, I would look into making some adjustments to that as well.
Jarrod@latemodel
Late Model Restoration
1990turbo
Member
I had a fox that was like that. It still had the stock stuff when i got it and stock doesnt have a firewall adjuster. the rubber part the cable goes through was tore to hell so it was like the cable was too long and made it so i had to push the pedal all the way down and almost stand on it to be able to shift. My suggestion is if its a stock set up look into an aftermarket cable quadrant and firewall adjuster. One of the best things i ever did for that car.
Its on the firewall under the hood. Its what your clutch cable goes into. It will look something like this.
Here is a view of it from the
have something like that.. Only not cool looking, ive never done one... I spin it?
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sorry about the crappy pics, it was dark before my wife got home (todays my off day and her on day) and could'nt get a quality pic. I'm hoping to tackle this clutch thing maybe tomorrow but probably saturday.
So the pic is the thing I got, the plastic thing does move but I'm clueless on what to do with it. I looked up some stuff and it made it sound like I pull out the slack then tighten it to a dimes space but again, i'm clueless here.
I'm assuming most of my work will be in doing the one under the dash unless I get lucky. I'm wanting to make sure I get it right, the gears engage fine and there is no isssue, i just gotta press it all the way to the floor, so My goal is to get the clutch to engage closer to the driver. If I've read everything right this is what i'm supposed to do.
Get into the dash area, probably removing the underside of the dash, might just remove the drivers seat to make the job easy. pull the cluth peddle forward toward the drivers seat and hold it, and press up on part of the quadrant thing... and this should bring it all closer? right? thanks guys.
So the pic is the thing I got, the plastic thing does move but I'm clueless on what to do with it. I looked up some stuff and it made it sound like I pull out the slack then tighten it to a dimes space but again, i'm clueless here.
I'm assuming most of my work will be in doing the one under the dash unless I get lucky. I'm wanting to make sure I get it right, the gears engage fine and there is no isssue, i just gotta press it all the way to the floor, so My goal is to get the clutch to engage closer to the driver. If I've read everything right this is what i'm supposed to do.
Get into the dash area, probably removing the underside of the dash, might just remove the drivers seat to make the job easy. pull the cluth peddle forward toward the drivers seat and hold it, and press up on part of the quadrant thing... and this should bring it all closer? right? thanks guys.
I believe it's supposed to adjust at your firewall, not under your dash where the pedal assembly is (which is much harder to do).
You're cable has too much slack in it so make sure you're turning the adjuster so you are adding tension to the cable which will raise the release point of the clutch from the floor. Do a turn and then test the clutch to see if it's where you want it and go from there.
alrighty, i messed with it for a few, only had about 20 min of sunlight, I was able to get it a bit better, it's a very stiff clutch though, I'll give it the old college try again saturday. It's a step in the right direction though, hope to get it where i want it saturday then start on getting the e break fixed.
Very good input, the the rubber bushing/grommet is easily overlooked and can cause problems1990turbo said:
Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.
Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.
See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.
Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90
Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40
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alrighty, i did the pull on the clutch pedel thing and did the firewall thing and it's for sure closer than it was. It's still a stiff clutch, this is my first 5.0 with a 5 speed, all my over 5 speeds have been saturns so i don't really have anything to compare it to... but it is better than it was,
i dunno if this helps, but the car shifts fine, goes in and out of gear fine and does not seem to have any issues minus it being low and hard... lol, but it's not a stock clutch... so i'm told.
i dunno if this helps, but the car shifts fine, goes in and out of gear fine and does not seem to have any issues minus it being low and hard... lol, but it's not a stock clutch... so i'm told.
The more i use it the less it feels off, it drove great, the adjusting helped a ton though. It gets dark by 6:30 and i've been getting home at 6 lately so i've not gotten much time with it.. it was an unexpected car so i've not gotten the garage cleaned out yet... so i'm kinda limited plus i promised the wife i'd get a small debt paid off before i put plates on it... so i got time to get it right. My goals by spring are to get it all cleaned up, mess with the clutch a bit more, replace the dang ugly headlights, fix the ebreak... if I get those done I'll be getting a proper gear for the speedo... but i'm gonna do the things that simply require elbow grease...
Congrats on the Mustang and FYI any Ford with a clutch from the 80's and early 90's had cable clutches and are super stiff compared to newer vehicles. Your leg is going to get a work out especially if you ever hit any traffic!! lol. Good luck with the car.
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