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Clutch Cable Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter 865.0
  • Start date Start date Feb 23, 2006
8

865.0

New Member
Feb 23, 2006
24
0
0
Feb 23, 2006
#1
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #1
I have snapped two clutch cables in half in the past six months. The first was the factory '86 cable and the later a Steeda adjustable.

The clutch assembly is a 10.5" FMS unit.

Has anyone ever experiened this problems before? Thankfully, they have broke in the driveway on both occasions.

FYI: I replaced the factory quadrant with a Steeda aluminum unit seven years ago.
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Feb 23, 2006
#2
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #2
how did you route the cable? it must be binding up somewhere or its too close to the header.

check out this website from v8only

http://www.50stangs.com/techarticles/clutchcableadjustment.html
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Feb 23, 2006
#3
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #3
Welcome to the boards.

I agree with ECU about running through Jeremy's article. I will also add, as odd as it is, if your engine has a bad ground, the clutch cable can be recruited as a ground. And this greatly reduces its life.

I would try a new OEM cable and see how it does.

Good luck.
 
8

865.0

New Member
Feb 23, 2006
24
0
0
Feb 24, 2006
#4
  • Feb 24, 2006
  • #4
What a great article...

I have many problems which associate with the cable binding. Excessively hard clutch pedal, grabbing right off the floor, etc.
I just don't know what I did wrong. I have routed the cable the same as from the factory.

I'd have to agree with the OEM products. I threw the Steeda cable in the trash seven years ago and put the OEM cable back on. When it broke, I went to a an adjustable unit again. It didn't last long.

I am wondering if I could possibly have a clutch problem that is leading to all of the systoms above minus the improper routing of the cable. Note: The cable broke around four inches from the end which connects to the quadrant. It's been so long, but I only remember one connection on the Steeda quadrant.

If I have to change the clutch, does anyone know of the easiest clutch pedal effort on the market? I depress the clutch around 100+ times day during my daily commute to work. No Fun!

Thanks for the response.

Dragnazz5.0...
I seem to have a jacked up appearance on my stang after installing the Lakewood Lift Bars. I have them setup in the middle spot, however was wanting to lower the bars to the lowest setting. How is your car setup, and do you have any problems with the driveshaft angle, etc?
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Feb 24, 2006
#5
  • Feb 24, 2006
  • #5
as far as the clutch goes and if you go that route a king cobra is hard to beat in terms of price and driveability.

ive got my lakewoods set at the lowest setting. i dont have any problems that ive noticed. the car really lifts in the back when you launch it. my car actually sits a lot lower in the back than in the front with stock springs. i might try moving mine to the middle spot just to see what happens.
 
S

Sicarius428

Active Member
Jan 6, 2004
2,085
5
49
Feb 24, 2006
#6
  • Feb 24, 2006
  • #6
Centerforce has a very nice grip without the pedal effort of a lot of other companies but they make you pay for it.
Kevin
 
8

87'GTstang

New Member
Feb 16, 2004
1,025
0
0
Feb 24, 2006
#7
  • Feb 24, 2006
  • #7
865.0 said:
Note: The cable broke around four inches from the end which connects to the quadrant.
Click to expand...
If it broke there then I would check you alignment with the grommet in the firewall where the cable comes through and how it connects to the quadrant. If it isn't aligned (I just usually use washers on the quadrant to get the effective shimming needed) it will cause side loading on the cable strands and snap it there.
 
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