clutch cable snapped

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Oct 24, 2006

#21

• Oct 24, 2006

• #21

well if you got it at O'reilley's and I need it asap, i think i'll go tomorrow. there is one literally across the street from where i live (my neighborhood is right off the expressway, and the store is right across the expressway--Advance is across the alley in my back yard, hehe).

thanks for the offer, though, man--if i didn't need to get this asap, i would've jumped on it.


it still remains, though--i want to make absolutely sure this MM cable is/isn't gonna work. i just emailed MM to see what they say about the extra length. still open to input, gents. thanks.

 

TripleBlack95

Member

Dec 14, 2003

153

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Burke (Fairfax), VA

Oct 24, 2006

#22

• Oct 24, 2006

• #22

Punisher - what year do you have?

First, I'm suprised the MM universal cable is so long on your triple hook - you tried it on all 3 hooks? Usually is nice and tight on the hook closest to the firewall.

I run all Steeda. (Hook, Cable, & FWA) The steeda cable is a bit odd. You have to tighten the nuts on the end with a wrench to the fork so theres a nice light tension and tune the FWA so it sits to your liking. I'm happy so far but a little paranoid as to its durability. The one I had that came with my 96 Cobra snapped 2 weeks after I bought it but looking back was CLEARLY way too tight.

Anyways back to your story - I was planning on going with MM's cable since its a beefed up OEM one as a backup just in case.

I DO however have a brand spanking new clutch cable sitting in my closet. I purchased it on a whim hoping it would fit the Cobra and unfortunatley was too short and is a GT cable. Clutch wouldn't engage at all. I modified it and took off the stock firewall mount but still have the steeda mount from the steeda cable. (if that makes sense?) Since you're running the FWA you wouldn't need the mount anyways. Only other thing about it is that the rubber casing is torn (they all get torn) a bit but thats very minor.

$15 plus shipping - I have zero use for it and its brand new. Let me know if I can help you out.

It is this exact cable LOOKSWISE in the pic: http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com...d=558&osCsid=294f1aae8e65ef8a331e2cb27f6fd1df

Part # is XR337K553CA 042DG. (on the rubber, I don't believe that is the actual #) Bought it from a performance shop. Lemme know if that is what it says on yours?

 

TripleBlack95

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Dec 14, 2003

153

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Burke (Fairfax), VA

Oct 24, 2006

#23

• Oct 24, 2006

• #23

Here's a couple pictures of my new one:


If this looks like the cable you have the only other thing I would try is double checking where you mounted the cable. I know for my Cobra after mounting the bracket to the body the cable needs to be run underneath and over the mounts a specific way. If you mounted it too close to the fork or ran it a different way thats would be why its so loose.

 

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Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Oct 24, 2006

#24

• Oct 24, 2006

• #24

thanks for the reply, man.

so it didn't work on your 96 cobra and was for a 95 gt?

from the looks of the link you posted, it looks like the MM one, which is exactly the one i have.

at this point i'm waiting for a response from MM on whether or not thier cable will work on my car. i'm wondering if there is another place for me to bolt the cable to to accommodate for the extra length (like somewhere further away from the firewall). i don't think NOT bolting it up would be a great idea, and i'm also not quite sure on where to route the cable through. maybe if i drilled a new hole for the bracket somewhere that would allow the cable to loop like the stocker w/out warping (like it does when i bolt it to the stock location)?

i'd say it's a good few inchers longer over the stock cable.

i'll keep the offers in mind, though. thanks again.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Oct 25, 2006

#25

• Oct 25, 2006

• #25

Paul, I'm sorry to hear about this. Something that just might band-aid you: If you can, put an OEM rubber grommet on the cable, along with the FWA. This will shim out some slack.

Good luck buddy!

 

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Oct 25, 2006

#26

• Oct 25, 2006

• #26

thanks for the idea, JT. i'll def give that a shot tomorrow after a quick trip to Advance to see what kind of grommets they have.

 

TripleBlack95

Member

Dec 14, 2003

153

1

16

Burke (Fairfax), VA

Oct 25, 2006

#27

• Oct 25, 2006

• #27

Yeah, hopefully you get it all fabbed up.

These things are really try as you go. Big PITA IMHO.

 

droptopford 5 0

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Mar 31, 2005

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Oct 25, 2006

#28

• Oct 25, 2006

• #28

i dont know why, but whe i ordered my cable from 5.0 resto, the guy told me that the part number for both the ford piece and the steeda piece was the same ,so he gave me the steeda/ford cable lol, im not exactly sure of what i got but i think its the steeda because it looked ever so slightly different from the ford piece i got out of a junkyard for comparison sake (free) when comparing the cable itself though, i didnt seem to notice any difference and i took the verniers to both cbles and they were the same thickness within a couple thousandths. plus the new cable i got waswell lubed with lithium grease, so i dont see why everyones having such a hard time with them...

 

Methodical

15 Year Member

Dec 1, 2003

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Clinton, MD

Oct 25, 2006

#29

• Oct 25, 2006

• #29

I'd suggest you get on the horn with them and not wait for an email, which may or may not answer your ?. They have a toll free number so you don't have to spend your cheddar on the call. I'd think you'd get your concerns addressed better on the phone than by email.

 

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Oct 25, 2006

#30

• Oct 25, 2006

• #30

thanks for the reply, guys.

just got a response from MM--they said the cable is intentionally longer for header clearance and for a cleaner, more fluid bend.

i responded by asking whether or not to bolt the cable up using my OEM cable bracket, and that if i did so at the stock location, the cable warped. i also asked if they intended for the cable to not be bolted since they didn't supply a mounting bracket with theirs.

i haven't had a chance to call since yesterday--for instance, i'm in class right now. i'll really try and give them a ring today and speak to the guy who responded to my email. in the mean time:

what do you guys think about not bolting the cable up? if i were to not do so, i could route it in a way that would resolve the extra length issue, but i'm afraid it would wobble around and get caught, or melt from touching something hot.

this is the *tech-eist i've gotten, hehe, so thanks for the replies, all.

 

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Oct 26, 2006

#31

• Oct 26, 2006

• #31

update: Jason from MM has informed me that i do not need to bolt the cable using the factory bracket. he says the reason the factory cable is bolted is to keep it away from the heat of the headers. w/ the added length of the MM cable, there is no need because it can be routed away from the headers w/out having to bolt it down.

gonna give it another shot this weekend.

 

B

BadAndy

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Feb 21, 2001

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Ohio

Oct 26, 2006

#32

• Oct 26, 2006

• #32

what is wrong with a cable from advance auto??? i put one on my 92 4cyl 5 speed car 1 year ago and no problems

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Oct 26, 2006

#33

• Oct 26, 2006

• #33

A lot of the parts store cables don't hold up too well. A decent way to tell is to look at the cable inside the sheath. Note cable diameter and any secondary sheathing inside the outer sheath (compared to the OEM cable). Some folks see issue with binding and cable stretching with the parts store versions.

 

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Oct 27, 2006

#34

• Oct 27, 2006

• #34

^^what JT said, hehe

 

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Oct 28, 2006

#35

• Oct 28, 2006

• #35

welp, MM cable is in.

pedal feel is much smoother, but i still have the little *popping noise evertime i press down on the pedal.

it's not bolted up (like the stock one was), and the only place it's touching is on the a/c compressor. should i be alright?

sorry to keep kicking this thread up, but some peace of mind never hurt anyone.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Nov 29, 1999

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Oct 28, 2006

#36

• Oct 28, 2006

• #36

Even if you dont bolt up the cable, you could use a tie-wrap of some sort to 'pull' it into the general area of where you want it to be. Like if it's touching the compressor, pull it a little bit away from there. I do this to help achieve the best routing I can (a big, gradual bend with no sharp kinks, etc).

Sounds like you've got it though.

 

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005

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Oct 28, 2006

#37

• Oct 28, 2006

• #37

ahh, didn't think of that--thanks, JT!