• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

clutch/flywheel... before i buy, want to check to make sure its right...

  • Thread starter Thread starter SadbutTrue
  • Start date Start date Jul 12, 2007

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Jul 12, 2007
#1
  • Jul 12, 2007
  • #1
Getting a fidanza aluminum flywheel, 157 teeth, adjustable weight (0-28.5-50oz... i'd use the 28.5 i believe), and a king cobra clutch (10.5", 10 spline). These are going on an 89 T5/bellhousing mating to a 69 351w. If someone could quickly confirm these are the correct parts, I'll go ahead and order them. Thanks!
 

coolblue65

Founding Member
Jul 26, 1999
1,224
2
39
Algonquin, IL
Jul 12, 2007
#2
  • Jul 12, 2007
  • #2
I dont know anything about the king cobra clutch, but the flywheel will be fine with your set up.

Where are you planning on getting your flywheel from? I got my Fidanza from a dealer on ebay and I got an awesome deal.
 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Jul 12, 2007
#3
  • Jul 12, 2007
  • #3
coolblue65 said:
I dont know anything about the king cobra clutch, but the flywheel will be fine with your set up.

Where are you planning on getting your flywheel from? I got my Fidanza from a dealer on ebay and I got an awesome deal.
Click to expand...

ebay, after tax it should be 295 or so shipped.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Jul 12, 2007
#4
  • Jul 12, 2007
  • #4
Won't be enough grip for a 351. You need to upgrade to a CenterForce Dual friction Clutch-Pressure Plate.
 

MustangMatt1966

New Member
Mar 11, 2004
1,004
1
0
Orlando Fl.
Jul 12, 2007
#5
  • Jul 12, 2007
  • #5
I had ordered that same flywheel and actually had it ready to install when I was talked out of it. D.Hearne was actually one that informed me that these flywheels have less inertia therefore the user has to reach higher rps when leaving the light in stop and go traffic. These flywheels are used primarily for race engines...but if you feel its right for your application than go for it. Just letting you know.

Matt
 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Jul 12, 2007
#6
  • Jul 12, 2007
  • #6
MustangMatt1966 said:
I had ordered that same flywheel and actually had it ready to install when I was talked out of it. D.Hearne was actually one that informed me that these flywheels have less inertia therefore the user has to reach higher rps when leaving the light in stop and go traffic. These flywheels are used primarily for race engines...but if you feel its right for your application than go for it. Just letting you know.

Matt
Click to expand...

While thats true, the consensus on the 5.0 board is that its a somewhat over-stated effect. A ton of guys have them on their 5.0s and really like them, as does a classic owner on here that chimed in a few days ago in my other thread. I got a deal on ebay that meant i pretty much paid the same for the aluminum one as i would on the billet steel, and i like the idea of faster revs, less wear on the engine/transmission, and less rotational weight in general.

I did take his advice and get a Centerforce though.
 

coolblue65

Founding Member
Jul 26, 1999
1,224
2
39
Algonquin, IL
Jul 12, 2007
#7
  • Jul 12, 2007
  • #7
I think that all depends on your engine combo - I have not noticed any drivability issues when I went from my stock flywheel on the 289 to the aluminum flywheel on the 347. I can tell it can rev faster but it drives the same.
 

65FBE2

Member
Mar 8, 2007
283
0
17
Minnasnowta
Jul 12, 2007
#8
  • Jul 12, 2007
  • #8
The differents will be on how you want to use the car. A 20lb steel is still best for a street driven car. The alum. fly wheel will make it a little harder to start out from a dead stop, where you will really notice the differents is when you let off the gas coming up to a corner or a stop. The car will slow much quicker, good for a road course or auto cross but not as smooth on the street. If drag racing is the main objective I would go heavier to help on the line. I had a 30lb wheel on a 289 that I raced and it really helped the E.T. Although the 289 didn't have much for torque. I currently have a 13lb alum on a 347 but this car is set up for road racing. The new centerforce cluches are much heavier than the old long style so you rotating mass will not be as light as you my think
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Jul 13, 2007
#9
  • Jul 13, 2007
  • #9
I tend to agree with the others, an aluminum flywheel on a 351 will be more "street friendly" than the same wheel on a 289. This is due to the higher torque of the 351, it doesn't need as much help of the line. As for the King Cobra cluthc, I used a heavy duty unit for a 94-95 Stang in my Ranger , it's just a tad less grip than the Cobra unit, but even the mild 5.0 in it now easily overpowered the HD clutch, with the 331, it wasn't even close. I ran the HD clutch for a day then parked it till I got the Centerforce unit in it.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jul 13, 2007
#10
  • Jul 13, 2007
  • #10
torque and gearing also have an effect on how easy or hard a car is to launch. light weight flywheel, with lots of low end torque, car launches well. lightweight flywheel with lots of gear launches well. lightweight flywheel with little torque or gear, car launches like crap.
 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Jul 13, 2007
#11
  • Jul 13, 2007
  • #11
rbohm said:
torque and gearing also have an effect on how easy or hard a car is to launch. light weight flywheel, with lots of low end torque, car launches well. lightweight flywheel with lots of gear launches well. lightweight flywheel with little torque or gear, car launches like crap.
Click to expand...


Well, I do think the 351w's torque will help compensate for the flywheel. And I also think the flywheel will, in turn, help compensate for my fairly tame rear ratio at the moment. My t-5 does have the numerically higher (and unfortunately weaker) 3.31 or something 1st gear, which'll help get it off the line. We'll see, it should start going in next weekend.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Help I want to put this T5 in our Cobra II
  • 2Blue2
  • Jun 27, 2020
  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech
  • 4 5 6
Replies
109
Views
22K
1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech Jun 29, 2024
LILCBRA
Drivetrain 66 With 5.0 Engine
  • acinider
  • Aug 3, 2016
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Replies
10
Views
4K
Classic Mustang Specific Tech Sep 10, 2016
dennis112
N
SOLD Supercharged 1989 SSP Coupe $13,500 obo
  • notchlubber
  • Jul 17, 2018
  • Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93)
Replies
13
Views
13K
Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) May 28, 2020
notchlubber
N
Black Jack: Now a little less of a rust bucket
  • FastDriver
  • May 29, 2015
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 41 42 43
Replies
855
Views
185K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Sunday at 10:39 PM
FastDriver
J
  • Locked
SOLD Fs: 79-93 Mustang T-56 Magnum, 6spd Conversion Kit W/mcleod Rst Clutch & Billet Flywheel
  • j0Hn10
  • Sep 1, 2012
  • Drivetrain Parts
Replies
4
Views
3K
Drivetrain Parts Feb 18, 2013
j0Hn10
J
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?