Clutch has the shakes (the kind that break things)

DJCarbine · May 12, 2007

Clutch has the shakes (the kind that break things) *SOLVED SEE LAST POST*

After I put in the cam/heads, the clutch engaugement has been HORRIBLE. From a dead stop the car will want to get into a shudder that sounds like its going to break the trans/rear end. It is really violent. The only way to not have it happen is to let the clutch out REAAAALLLLLY slow, or have high RPM and let it out still a bit slow. The flywheel has been resurfaced recently, and the clutch/pressure plate is less than a year old. The Z bar is the original, with all the original bushings etc, and there is a bit of play on it between the engine and fender.

Will this play cause what I am experiencing? Its almost as if the engine doesnt like low RPM (with the performer RPM cam), and while its chugging it sets the engine into a rocking motion, effecting the clutch engaugement to be jerky as hell.

Any way to fix? Change to cable clutch? I have the T-5 bellhousing and T5 behind the engine, but modified the bell to use the standard fulcrum type clutch fork. Can still use T5 style fork if I get parts

PROBLEM SOLVED, SEE LAST POST

DJCarbine · May 12, 2007

Just got a ron morris clutch coversion kit, hopefully that will solve the problem. I had to get a stock T5 fork and pivot ball too.

Any suggestions on the install?

mustbereel · May 12, 2007

shudder

Several things can cause clutch shudder. Possibly the linkage. Broken engine mount will do it too. Contamination (oil) on the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate is another possibility.

iskwezm · May 12, 2007

mustbereel said:
Contamination (oil) on the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate is another possibility.

thats my guess or the clutch pressure plate

DJCarbine · May 12, 2007

I just remembered when I did my intake, I spilled a bunch of coolant at the rear of the block because I didn't drain enough coolant........

What are the chances that the coolant ruined the clutch?

Rusty67 · May 13, 2007

Doubt it. The coolant would provably not get onto the clutch disk... unless the motor was running.... if you figure that out without an intake manifold, let me know lol.

Contamination is usually due to the rear main seal leaking.

pazcarguy · May 13, 2007

What type of pressure plate are you running? I have a similar setup and was running a long style 3 finger pressure plate which is deeper than a diaphragm type. The clutch fork would hit the pressure plate because of this and make a horrible noise and shake like hell. I put in an adjustable pivot ball and it still did not work. My option was to switch to a diaphragm type or buy a "relieved" clutch fork to miss the diaphragm. I put the relieved clutch fork in and problem went away. Brian

iskwezm · May 13, 2007

pazcarguy said:
My option was to switch to a diaphragm type or buy a "relieved" clutch fork to miss the diaphragm. I put the relieved clutch fork in and problem went away. Brian

i went the other way, a diaphragm to a finger style(Centerforce to Mcleod) and the shake went away

DJCarbine · May 13, 2007

Rusty67 said:
Doubt it. The coolant would provably not get onto the clutch disk... unless the motor was running.... if you figure that out without an intake manifold, let me know lol.

Contamination is usually due to the rear main seal leaking.

Well it spilled all over the bellhousing, and when I did check linkage yesterday everything was soaked in grime/coolant

ron67fb · May 13, 2007

Did you already check the engine and trans mounts?

DJCarbine · May 13, 2007

ron67fb said:
Did you already check the engine and trans mounts?

Trans mount is new, and engines mounts appear ok, I have put on an engine brace to keep the engine movement in check in case it was the mounts, no difference.

paintballtommy · May 13, 2007

make a torque strap. that would probably help.

DJCarbine · May 13, 2007

paintballtommy said:
make a torque strap. that would probably help.

I did, the engine does not rock anymore. Clutch still shudders like it wants to break something. waiting for cable clutch conversion, and checking the clutch disc for contaminates

paintballtommy · May 13, 2007

what kind of clutch is it? is it old or new and how did you break it in?

DJCarbine · May 21, 2007

I took the trans and bellhousing off this past weekend, and saw a spray pattern inside the bellhousing that looked like an oil leak. It was on the transmission side, and turned out to be ATF from the T5 input shaft. A new seal fixed that problem. However, I still had a bit of ATF residue on the pressure plate. I took reaaaallly fine sandpaper and got the surface cleaned and any heat marks off. I took a wirebrush and roughed up the clutch disc that was in contact with the pressureplate side, enough to scrub off a bunch of powder that was hopefully atf contaminated. For good measure I cleaned up the flywheel side too. I then sprayed everything liberally with brake cleaner, and let it air dry. Looked brand new. Threw in a cable clutch setup from ron morris while I was at it.

Clutch enguages and works like a brand new car. I know its not the best idea to use any sort of sandpaper on clutch components, but honestly the carbide/emery stuff i used didnt actually sand any of the metal, it just got the comtaminates off and shined up the pressure plate nicely. I put about 150 miles on it, first easy then hard launches and everything is holding up great.

note to self and others - when doing T5 conversion replace input shaft seal. Takes 5 minutes, saves 3 hours.

Rusty67 · May 22, 2007

Replacing seals is always a good idea. A commonly overlooked seal to replace when doing a clutch job is the rear main seal. This will cause almost exactly what you described. I don't know why people don't just replace it every time they change a clutch (if they ran the clutch the length of its life). Its cheap insurance.

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