CLutch install , along with Fly wheel , Pilot bearing and seal I have Problems ?

ceaserthethird · May 22, 2006

After reading few threads about the CLutch Install i Decided to Do it my Self !

1994 Mustang GT Convertible 5-speed

I bought the KING COBRA Clutch kit , Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel , Ram HD Piolt Bearing , Thread sealer , ARP PRo Serises FlyWheel bolts $35 DAMMM...
Arp Starter Bolts , Ford Racing Pressure Plate Bolt Kit , And Maximum motorsports UNIVERSAL CLutch Cable .

Ok , i removed the X - Brace , G-load brace, X-pipe , Drive Shaft , Got the Trans out , Bell and PRressure plate along with Flywheel ....

i measured The CLUTCH Cable From Maximum motorsports with my old stock cable and their's a 8" inch difference in length ....

QUESTION'S
1.
So the new Universal Maximum motorsports cable is 8" inches longer part is
# mmcl-11
Is this a problem ? i do have a adjustable Clutch Quardrant kit and fire wall adjuster .....

2. The ARP Flywheel bolts say to Torque at 115 ft lbs if you are use 30 weight oil ?

i have a aluminum Flywheel what should i Torque the Flywheel at ?

3. Pressure Plate Torque numbers ?

4. Best way to remove Pilot Bearing ?

5. Best way to hold flywheel from rotating while i torque bolts in ?

Thanks Guys

it's taken me 2 days to remove and clean i say 10 hours each day .....have a Bad oil leak and made a mess ...

I couldn't remove some bolts ..... What a pain this was

Green 94 5.0 · May 22, 2006

1. i would imagine as long as it sits firmly in both the quadrant and the clutch fork that it will be fine.

2. i have always torqued my flywheel bolts to the factory specs which is 75-85lb/ft on my fidanza flywheel and have never had a problem

3. all torque specs can be found here: http://www.allfordmustangs.com//Detailed/649.shtml

4. you need a slide hammer or pilot bearing removal tool. there is also a hydraulic method to remove it, but all i did trying that was make a mess

5. have someone at the front of the car holding a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt that is in the nose of the crank

also, i would highly recommend changing your rear main seal while you are in there. it will save you from taking it apart later when it does start leaking.....good luck.

HISSIN50 · May 22, 2006

Green pretty much covered the waterfront. I dont have an alum flywheel in a stang, so I have no clue on that part.

Make sure the pilot bearing tool is a decent quality one.

You can use a flywheel holding tool if you need to do this by yourself.

Good luck.

Methodical · May 22, 2006

To hold the flywheel, get a screwdriver and stick thru one of the extra bolt holes in the the flywheel and wedge it against the bottom of the engine. No helper needed with this method.

To get the pilot bearing out, here's what I did. I packed wheel bearing greese in the pilot bearing hole, used one of the clutch alignment tool from the kit I have that barely fit in the pilot bearing hole - a pipe of some sort that barely fits in the pilot bearing and is flat on the end will also work. Then I just hammered it. The pressure on the grease pushed the pilot bearing out. I've used this method several times. But If I have to do it again, I will buy the removal tool.

Also, just a little FYI that will help you get the transmission to seat fully. Install the clutch cable as normal. When you push the transmission shaft as far into the pilot bearing that it will go have a helper depress the clutch pedal. Wah Lah, the transmission will bottom out in the pilot bearing or fully seat itself.

wazazzle · May 23, 2006

hope this helps cause it's been a real pita!!! i just spent today and yesterday trying to get my own pilot bearing out. methods i've tried and was a complete waste of time include: pilot bearing remover=waste of $15 rental, completely busted my bushing but didn't remove the entire bearing out..... hydrallic grease packing=trouble finding right size pipe or solid tube, messy, and it didn't work..... at that point i was like F-it! i've already spent 2days on just the pilot bearing, so i pulled out the 'ol milwaukee and CAREFULLY drilled that sob. if you do this drill it at diff angles and keep an eye on it not to drill into the crank. drill out 3 sections and lightly chisel the thing out. i did this and it crumpled out in 15 minutes. Btw don't get the bushing type, get the bearing. As you can see in the pic, the bushing gets chewed up... like mine was. I'd figure the bearing shouldn't have this prob, since it is a bearing.

wazazzle · May 23, 2006

as you can see in this pic... finally got the entire bushing out. but i caught myself almost drilling into the crank. i made a little mark... woopsy! before it's all said and done, make sure you pack grease inside and a little on the bearing. and drive it home with a deadblow or block of wood-n-hammer.

i also had a hard time holding the flywheel while torquing so i just used an air rachet. air tools rock! and worth every penny.. found my 30gal 9.5cfm@90psi on craigslist for $75. had to fix a few things though, but still worth the $150 total i spent so far.

Green 94 5.0 · May 23, 2006

wazazzle said:
hope this helps cause it's been a real pita!!! i just spent today and yesterday trying to get my own pilot bearing out. methods i've tried and was a complete waste of time include: pilot bearing remover=waste of $15 rental, completely busted my bushing but didn't remove the entire bearing out..... hydrallic grease packing=trouble finding right size pipe or solid tube, messy, and it didn't work..... at that point i was like F-it! i've already spent 2days on just the pilot bearing, so i pulled out the 'ol milwaukee and CAREFULLY drilled that sob. if you do this drill it at diff angles and keep an eye on it not to drill into the crank. drill out 3 sections and lightly chisel the thing out. i did this and it crumpled out in 15 minutes. Btw don't get the bushing type, get the bearing. As you can see in the pic, the bushing gets chewed up... like mine was. I'd figure the bearing shouldn't have this prob, since it is a bearing.

deja vu.....i broke 2 pilot bearing tools. all the hydraulic method did was make a mess. i ended up drilling and chiseling too.

ceaserthethird · May 23, 2006

LAST Nights Small Steps'
1. i Remove the Pilot Bearing it took me 15 minutes with a Autozone pilot bearing tool that cost $40 to rent but they give it back ... first i removed the Bearing case it self within 5 minutes and left the solid bushing in their , till i look at my replacement bearing and notice i still had to remove the solid shell so another 10 minutes an i was done!

2.I then moved on to MAIN REAR SEAL - This is a Pain in the ASS took me 2 hours , first i tryed to remove with small flat head screw driver , about a hour then i said hell with it and Got a Brand New Razor Blade and removed all the Plastic on the seal and finally removed it with a small Flat head screw driver

3.
I then Put the Small Dowell Pin's on the FLywheel with a vise - i put lock tight on each dowell pin .... but it was a Pain in the ass about 45 minutes

Then my wife Came & said it was 11:42 PM so off i went to Shower & then to my big fat BED AHHHH ....

I will Continue Tonight , But i had my Wife take few pictures of the parts , i'll try & take some pictures of last night's install .... i will post them once i have time ...

PS.
SAVE THE BUSHING FROM THE REAR MAIN SEAL AND USE IT TO TAP IN THE NEW MAIN SEAL ....

DO THE SAME FOR THE PILOT BEARING , USE OLD PILOT BEARING TO TAP IN THE NEW ONE !

Big help -

CLutch install , along with Fly wheel , Pilot bearing and seal I have Problems ?

ceaserthethird

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Green 94 5.0

HISSIN50

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Methodical

wazazzle

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wazazzle

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Green 94 5.0

ceaserthethird

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CLutch install , along with Fly wheel , Pilot bearing and seal I have Problems ?

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