Clutch Issues! Help!
- Thread starter stickboy101
- Start date
ECU5.0
Banned
do you have a firewall adjuster? if so adjust it so that the pedal has like 1 to 1 1/2 inches of play in it before it gets tight. that should be a good adjustment. thats what i run anyways. a lot of people do it differently but i personally prefer a little preload on the throw out bearing
ECU5.0
Banned
a firewall adjuster is just easier to adjust because you dnt have t crawl under the car. what kind of clutch is it?
ECU5.0
Banned
it could just be the clutch. ive always heard people having a very stiff pedal...and i dont know how they got rid of it, if they ever did. try taking all the preload off of the clutch. have the clutch start to engage about 2 inches or so off of the floor and see if that helps out at all
ECU5.0
Banned
ive got the upr triple hook quadrant with a ford oem cable. the cable was 120 bucks from the ford dealer...but i think you can get them cheaper. i just needed it right away and couldnt wait for one to be shipped. check maximum motorsports....i think they sell a pretty good quadrant and cable kit. but get a non adjustable cable and firewall adjuster
to clarify, i think ECU is saying to tighten the cable so that there is no freeplay (when i saw his post: "taking all the preload off the clutch," i think of loosening the adjustment; preloading the cable is tightening it to remove slack, to me).ECU5.0 said:
ECU5.0
Banned
i know what you are saying hissin, but i was talkin about loosening the cable a little so that there isnt that much tension on the clutch fork. jeremy (v8only) was the one who told me to get the pedal to have like 1 inch of free play in the cable which is putting pressure on the pressure plate so the clutch disengages quicker. if you loosen it you have to push the pedal further to disengage the clutch, but it also engages closer to the floor. dont knoow if that made any sense....it makes sense in my mind
ECU, i think i get what you are saying. but in the above [quoted] post, he already is engaging right on the floor, if i read it right. any more free play, i would worry that he is not going to disengage totally.stickboy101 said:
BTW, i thought V8 was one of the guys whom likes to have preload on the cable (i have not read his write up)...if you introduce freeplay into the cable (no preload), then there is no additional pressure on the PP from the TOB....
(i think i understand what you said; i just dont think i would have him create more freeplay). he will be grinding gears otherwise. just my thoughts.
oh, i apologize for misreading what you had said, and then trying to clarify it, when it was me that misinterpreted what you wrote.
and sorry this is so scrambled - i wish i knew how to do the multiple quotes like some do. that would really help hit things on the head.
ECU5.0
Banned
yeah, im confused now hissin. haha, just kidding. alright, i guess im confused as to what its called. i know how to do it, but not how to describe it.
hi guys!!!
ecu definetly knows what he is doing with this!!, but I agree, the lingo is quite hard to get a grip of.
preload is just another way of saying that the cable is tight enough to where the clutch fork and throwout bearing are constantly pushing against the pressure plate, enough to put slight pressure on it, but not enough to actually disengage the clutch from the pressure plate and flywheel.
what happens, if you don't have this "preload" is that the throwout bearing is kind of just rattling around there, instead of being planted against the pressure plate. This will cause sqeaking that many complain of that goes away mysteriously when they apply slight pressure. I can't tell you how many people yank their trans and replace the throwout bearing for a squeak that could have been adjusted out!!!!
anyhow, a few years back, I know nothing about preload, etc, and when someone told me to have a couple of inches slack, I thought that meant a LOT of slack, I adjusted it so loose, that caused it to roll forward at the lights, when in first with the clutch pressed. in fact, I kept rolling at the staging line at the drags and was bitching about why the ground at the races was sloped!! Oh sweet ignorance. I wish I knew then what I know now. (and I'll probably be saying the same ten years from now)
The original poster likely still has adjustment issues. by nature the centerforce dual friction is actually such a light effort clutch, that I compare it to the pedal effort of a honda civic, it's actually lighter than a stock mustang clutch. (the counter weights on the pressure plate help with the light pedal effort)
http://50stangs.com/techarticles/clutchcableadjustment.html
here is my take on the whole shebang, and i would suggest the original poster to go over this.
what you've described sounds exactly like a common adjustment problem. Bounce your foot very lightly on the pedal, how much travel does it go before it gets stiffer??? how much "mush" do you have?? I'm willing to bet much more than an inch.
Tighten that adjustment up. In fact, jack you rear up, jack stand it, fire it up, push the clutch to the floor, and stick it in first, leave your feet off the brake. Do your wheels spin??? i bet they do. your clutch is too loose. tighten the adjustment until they stop spinning.
fyi, that adjustable cable IS crap as mentioned already. Ditch it for an oem unit. get it from diversified, mm,possibly 50 resto, maybe d&d for $30-$30, and get yourself a firewall adjuster. If your pedal is stiff at all right now, you've got cable issues.
try the adjustement and we'll all help you from there.
ecu definetly knows what he is doing with this!!, but I agree, the lingo is quite hard to get a grip of.
preload is just another way of saying that the cable is tight enough to where the clutch fork and throwout bearing are constantly pushing against the pressure plate, enough to put slight pressure on it, but not enough to actually disengage the clutch from the pressure plate and flywheel.
what happens, if you don't have this "preload" is that the throwout bearing is kind of just rattling around there, instead of being planted against the pressure plate. This will cause sqeaking that many complain of that goes away mysteriously when they apply slight pressure. I can't tell you how many people yank their trans and replace the throwout bearing for a squeak that could have been adjusted out!!!!
anyhow, a few years back, I know nothing about preload, etc, and when someone told me to have a couple of inches slack, I thought that meant a LOT of slack, I adjusted it so loose, that caused it to roll forward at the lights, when in first with the clutch pressed. in fact, I kept rolling at the staging line at the drags and was bitching about why the ground at the races was sloped!! Oh sweet ignorance. I wish I knew then what I know now. (and I'll probably be saying the same ten years from now)
The original poster likely still has adjustment issues. by nature the centerforce dual friction is actually such a light effort clutch, that I compare it to the pedal effort of a honda civic, it's actually lighter than a stock mustang clutch. (the counter weights on the pressure plate help with the light pedal effort)
http://50stangs.com/techarticles/clutchcableadjustment.html
here is my take on the whole shebang, and i would suggest the original poster to go over this.
what you've described sounds exactly like a common adjustment problem. Bounce your foot very lightly on the pedal, how much travel does it go before it gets stiffer??? how much "mush" do you have?? I'm willing to bet much more than an inch.
Tighten that adjustment up. In fact, jack you rear up, jack stand it, fire it up, push the clutch to the floor, and stick it in first, leave your feet off the brake. Do your wheels spin??? i bet they do. your clutch is too loose. tighten the adjustment until they stop spinning.
fyi, that adjustable cable IS crap as mentioned already. Ditch it for an oem unit. get it from diversified, mm,possibly 50 resto, maybe d&d for $30-$30, and get yourself a firewall adjuster. If your pedal is stiff at all right now, you've got cable issues.
try the adjustement and we'll all help you from there.
ECU5.0
Banned
and the man comes to set us all straight. haha, i knew i was sayin the right thing. i just didnt go into specifics
i know bud. i was in a rush and agitated at something else when i posted before you just did. i enjoy readin your posts and have picked up some good stuff from you.v8only said:
i was again confused because i was thinkin stickboy should dial out the slack (you said it ever-so-much more eloquently than i did), and i was tossing that back and forth with ECU. in the first line of post 10, i thought he was saying to dial in more slack. so that was what i think we were goin back and forth about. then i thought i missed something with the symptoms. just my frustration, i guess.....i also enjoy his posts and trust what he says. but ive played with clutches a lot and have a decent idea (i think) of the dynamics. so i re-read and still thought i was on the right track. i must not have understood his perspective on it - as it appears he was saying the same thing you (and i) did. my bad, i guess.
so basically, please dont read any negativity into my above post - your response was quite gracious (i hate it when someone says, "yeah, that is what i said." so then i did it. LOL.
we all be cool.
Similar threads
