Clutch pedal kind sticking at bottom

impropernick

Member
Jan 4, 2021
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Hey everyone, I have a tko 600 with a mcleod street extreme clutch and throw out bearing, lakewood clutch fork, ford performance clutch cable, billet quadrant and firewall adjuster. I only have about 25 miles on this build but I've noticed right from the start that the clutch pedal sticks a little bit towards the bottom when you press it slowly down, or releasing it slowly and then it kind of springs back up when releasing. It doesn't seem to really do it when pressing the pedal quickly, just slowly, so it makes it awful for taking off in first. It kind of seems like the throw out bearing might be binding on the sleeve, but I don't have a clue. The things I read said to grease the sleeve lightly, so that's how I did it. I'm wondering if I put too light of a coat on. Here are some videos I took, let me know what you guys think.
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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That is not a lack of grease on the bearing shaft causing that. That sound seems mechanical, like the pressure plate has an issue. Have you tried different adjustments on the cable?
 
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impropernick

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Jan 4, 2021
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Could it be the cable is way too tight? I wasn't exactly sure how to set up the tension on the cable on the clutch fork, so I got it kind of taught and then tightened it a little bit with the jam nuts. I can't loosen it too much more from the firewall adjuster, if i do it almost seems like the clutch wouldnt fully disengage with the pedal on the floor
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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I would try from the cable end. Loosen the nut(s), then tighten the cable with the nut until there is just the slightest tension on the fork. See how the pedal feels after that. If it still does the same thing then the issue might be in the pressure plate.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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#1 I have heard of issues with using a firewall adjuster with an adjustable cable
#2 kinda sounds like the fingers on the clutch are going over center but I have never heard of that happening before.
I would try running the firewall adjuster all the way in, taking the slack out of the cable and then adjust it at the fork end. JMO
 
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impropernick

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Jan 4, 2021
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Thank you for your reply. Getting the correct adjustment has definitely been one of my main concerns since putting it all together, but it seemed like I was getting the ~5 ft lbs of force for half an inch on the pedal while this was happening. I really hope that's all it is, bad adjustment, that would be quite a relief. Just finished this build with a 351w and 144 roots blower swap, and keep finding small issues lol, I just want to drive it!!
 
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impropernick

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Jan 4, 2021
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UPDATE: I figured out my issue, my clutch fork wasn't fully seated on the throwout bearing, I could just barely see enough where it looked like the springs on the fork weren't full engaged onto the throwout bearing. BUT my next question is, do I have the correct clutch fork. I bought a lakewood heavy duty clutch fork https://www.americanmuscle.com/lakewood-clutchfork-7904.html which it says is 2" shorter than a stock one, because I have a lakewood bellhousing, or so I think...It came with my transmission and advertised as one. But do you guys think these pictures look normal? It seems like the cable is at a weird angle, and the fork isn't sticking out enough
293264985_631541338191763_8227636921333937640_n.jpg
293985513_400524555483649_1417064278677087277_n.jpg
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Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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I don't think that cable should be pulling at an angle like that?? I have used aftermarket bellhousings before but always used a stock clutch fork. The thing that sucks is changing that fork means pulling the trans......
 
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impropernick

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Jan 4, 2021
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I don't think that cable should be pulling at an angle like that?? I have used aftermarket bellhousings before but always used a stock clutch fork. The thing that sucks is changing that fork means pulling the trans......
Yeah, I know. I am DEFINITELY not looking forward to having to pull the transmission for an idiotic mistake I made... But I'm hoping I can at least leave the bellhousing attached to the engine and pull JUST the trans, as long as my longtube headers don't get in the way...Otherwise I might just have a shop do it
7991LXnSHO, it kind of does look like that doesn't it? I'll have to have my wife get in the car and press the pedal again for me to see, especially since now the cable is even closer
 
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nickyb

WAIT,you now have a pair?
10 Year Member
Apr 3, 2009
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Yeah, I know. I am DEFINITELY not looking forward to having to pull the transmission for an idiotic mistake I made... But I'm hoping I can at least leave the bellhousing attached to the engine and pull JUST the trans, as long as my longtube headers don't get in the way...Otherwise I might just have a shop do it
7991LXnSHO, it kind of does look like that doesn't it? I'll have to have my wife get in the car and press the pedal again for me to see, especially since now the cable is even closer
always good to use the wife, then tell her she found the problem.
 
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impropernick

Member
Jan 4, 2021
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Well, my new stock clutch fork from LMR came in and it's the same GD thing as the "lakewood heavy duty" one, same symbols on it, thickness and everything. So i'm guessing one manufacturer makes them all. Looks like I need to buy a mcleod 1" extended one. Also found out my bellhousing is a lakewood 15202
 

Monkeybutt2000

Mustang Master
Aug 11, 2019
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Well, my new stock clutch fork from LMR came in and it's the same GD thing as the "lakewood heavy duty" one, same symbols on it, thickness and everything. So i'm guessing one manufacturer makes them all. Looks like I need to buy a mcleod 1" extended one. Also found out my bellhousing is a lakewood 15202
WTF,what? I replaced mine but not sure what brand it was.
 
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