clutch pedal roller bearing

D.Hearne said:
:D But apparently you have had problems in getting it done, haven't you? Otherwise you wouldn't have started this thread :D If it was so easy, why haven't you done it yet? :shrug:
the only problem i am having is where to buy bearings. that is all i need to know. read my first post. i'm not asking how anyone did it, messurements they used, or designs they used. i'm just asking where to buy bearings. how is what i am doing so wrong???? :shrug:
 
Why don't you just get on google and do a search? The bearings run about $10 each if you buy them individually. To get the brackets made at a machine shop will cost you about $20 for the two. There's your $40. Mustang Steve probably buys the bearings in bulk at a discouted rate and sells them for what they would cost you. He either made or ordered a mass production of the brackets. I wouldn't be surprised if he paid $40 for his first set and decided that would be the price to sell them at.

Here you go: http://www.timken.com
 
Steve came across as a nice guy to me on the phone. I'm a mechanical designer myself with over 15 years in the field. I'm well aware of how to find the bearing online or the usual McMaster Carr and Grainger. In fact I even know of a way to probably get the bearing for free if I wanted to. But because I don't have the skills.... I went to Steve. His welding wasn't very impressive... but I was primarilly paying for the "no hassle" part of the deal. It's not just knowing which bearing... but it's knowing exactly how and where. I'm quite sure he had to build a fixture of some sort to ensure that it all goes together properly. Anybody who's welded (not me) knows that things have a tendency to "move". In this instance... you're trying to align properly two sets of bearings that will perform with a shaft. If you don't do it right... you either get a pedal that isn't alignned correctly or maybe not even get the pedal shaft in at all. $40 is cheap when it's all said and done.
 
CornerCarvin67 said:
Steve came across as a nice guy to me on the phone. I'm a mechanical designer myself with over 15 years in the field. I'm well aware of how to find the bearing online or the usual McMaster Carr and Grainger. In fact I even know of a way to probably get the bearing for free if I wanted to. But because I don't have the skills.... I went to Steve. His welding wasn't very impressive... but I was primarilly paying for the "no hassle" part of the deal. It's not just knowing which bearing... but it's knowing exactly how and where. I'm quite sure he had to build a fixture of some sort to ensure that it all goes together properly. Anybody who's welded (not me) knows that things have a tendency to "move". In this instance... you're trying to align properly two sets of bearings that will perform with a shaft. If you don't do it right... you either get a pedal that isn't alignned correctly or maybe not even get the pedal shaft in at all. $40 is cheap when it's all said and done.
but i do have the skills. there are two reasons why i want to do this myself. one is the cost; $40 for two bearings and rings seems over-priced in my book (then again, it's it my opinion). i can make the rings myself and weld them in. the seconded is that i enjoy the designing process (even thought there is no real design needed here). this is a very simple project; i mean the most complex part of this would be to tolerance fit the ring to the bearing. even that is a simple .005" though.

looking at this from an engineering stance, this is no complex design. even his cable clutch quadrant is simple. he wants $56 for one, and yet i was able to build the whole thing by myself using only a grinder with a cut off wheel and a stick welder. $56 to the $2 i spent on scrap metal. if mustang steve wants to charge $56 for that, be my guest. he can charge $10,000 for all i care. it's not some ingenious design he made (in fact, i got the same idea of using a quadrant when i was taking my buddy’s 87 mustang GT apart), so trying to argue that the price is fair based of R&D is moot. yes he does have a family to support, but i also have a limited budget while i go to college. i'm not going to spend more money if i dont have to.
 
Well, I do not want to seem like an a$$ here but zookeeper answered your question right off the bat. Your local bearing house. I went ahead and did the footwork for you. Google to find where you live (as your profile does not have your general location), and Google local to find the bearing house.

http://www.google.com/local?sc=1&hl=en&q=king+bearing&near=livermore,+ca&btnG=Google+Search&rl=1


I believe the “A” result should be close to your location (About 16 Mi). King Bearing Inc.

This research took all of 5 minutes.


Cheers,

Rufus
 
6Stang7 said:
i'm not going to spend more money if i dont have to.
I certainly can respect that, having been a starving Mech E student at one time myself. Which brings me to the real question: why do you need this mod at all? Is it really better than new plastic bushings with some fresh grease on them? It's not like this is a high load area, rotating machinery, going to see 10,000,000 cycles, etc.
 
reenmachine said:
I certainly can respect that, having been a starving Mech E student at one time myself. Which brings me to the real question: why do you need this mod at all? Is it really better than new plastic bushings with some fresh grease on them? It's not like this is a high load area, rotating machinery, going to see 10,000,000 cycles, etc.
well, i got my car back from paint, and the clutch pedal was really stiff and making a horrible squeaking/rubbing noise coming. i had brand new greased up bushings in there, but i am guessing the cable clutch system and new clutch are just too much for it. it's a PITA to remove the bracket, so i want to do it while i have it out.
 
rufusbooth said:
Well, I do not want to seem like an a$$ here but zookeeper answered your question right off the bat. Your local bearing house. I went ahead and did the footwork for you. Google to find where you live (as your profile does not have your general location), and Google local to find the bearing house.

http://www.google.com/local?sc=1&hl=en&q=king+bearing&near=livermore,+ca&btnG=Google+Search&rl=1


I believe the “A” result should be close to your location (About 16 Mi). King Bearing Inc.

This research took all of 5 minutes.


Cheers,

Rufus
ya i know. this thread got a little hijacked here.
 
rufusbooth said:
well, the stores listed did have it, but there was a link on the veiw top of the page to a place called VXB ball bearings.
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT
View attachment 514516

10 Ball Bearings R10 ZZ 5/8" x 1 3/8" x 11/32" Chrome Steel - Metal Shields for $20.
High Quality 10 inch size Ball Bearings, the inner diameter is 5/8", outer diameter is 1 3/8" and the width is 11/32", this is a popular size that could be used in many applications, Bearings are made of Chrome Steel each bearing has 2 metal shields to protect the bearing from dust or any possible contamination, also bearings are pre-lubricated with grease, Bearings are packed 10 bearings in one plastic tube.

Item: Double Shielded Ball Bearings
Size: 5/8" x 1 3/8" x 11/32"
Type: Deep groove ball bearings
Closures: 2 Metal Shields
Lubrication: Self Lubricated (Grease)
Quantity: 10 Bearings
Packing: 10 bearings in 1 plastic tube
one problem is that i cant buy just 2. :bang: o well, $20 is still 1/2. donno what i am going to do with 8 extra bearings though.

i still have some other palces to check, but if this turns out to be the best place, then i'll sell anyone a set of 2 for $4 + whatever shipping is to whoever wants them. i'll let you all know what i do.
 
Comparing those bearings to the ones that Mustang Steve uses you will notice that the outer race of the bearing does not have a slot machined out for the retainer ring. The retainer ring is there to keep the bearing from sliding into your pedal support too far. Keep this in mind so that you design your bearing cups with a positive stop.

Cheers,

Rufus
 
well, i found a little shop that had bearings. got two nice sealed roller bearings for about $5 a piece. :D once i had them, i busted out the old dial caliper and took a few messurements, then opened up AutoCAD and got to work. few min. later, i have this. only thing i will be adding is some bushing spacers to take all slop.
6Stang7_ring.jpg

6Stang7_3d.jpg


i'm gonna go machine out the pieces tomorrow and install them.
 
rufusbooth said:
Comparing those bearings to the ones that Mustang Steve uses you will notice that the outer race of the bearing does not have a slot machined out for the retainer ring. The retainer ring is there to keep the bearing from sliding into your pedal support too far. Keep this in mind so that you design your bearing cups with a positive stop.

Cheers,

Rufus
ya, i am aware of that. :nice: