So we just started getting estimates for a complete clutch/flywheel job on my 93LX, and the first and (so far) only place we've called is the local Ford dealership. Well the labor alone turned out to be $756...p'shaw. Ya right. We're going to call some other places and look for some small shops that would be willing to do it, but if all else fails, we might try and tackle it ourselves. What I was wondering was what kind of difficulty rating would you say this job involves. My dad hasn't replaced a clutch in decades, so I don't know if much has changed as far as transmission internals are concerned. If we were able to do it ourselves, it'd be nice to have a semi-step-by-step guide to the whole ordeal too.
Clutch Replacement
- Thread starter jpctln
- Start date
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
I would buy a clutch and do it your self. Its not hard. I did mine in my garage with the car on jack stands. I had a buddy come over and help me lower the tranny out so I wouldnt drop it. I took it apart in 2 hrs and put it back together in about 3-4 hrs. Cleaned stuff up etc. I paid 30.00 to have the fly wheel resurfaced and 150.00 for new clutch. Its not hard.
cobradvm
New Member
For a step by step guide get a copy of Chiltons and Haynes manuals and then do a search on "clutch" here and on corral - there will be a ton of information and helpful hints. I did mine by myself for the first time about 6 months ago - it is more grunt labor, than finesse. It will likely take you longer than 2 hours to pull it apart and longer than 3-4 to put it back together if you are doing it for the first time. When I did mine, I had a header stud shear off and another bolt shear off - both of those needed to be drilled out, rethreaded, so stuff like that will slow you down - its best fif you don't need the car and can take your time.
Good luck
Howard
Good luck
Howard
mustang88GT
New Member
yeah it is real easy had to do it several times due to a bad disc that blew up after 5 miles. the hardest part is putin the tranny back in but as many times i have had to drop the trany i can put it up my self.
Thanks for the replies guys, I just got back from Tablerock lake. Anyway, I found a few auctions on a Haynes/Chilton manual, so I'll be grabbing one of those soon.
So as 5.0Droptop said, jackstands will be enough to lower the tranny? I could probably get the car up about a foot on four wheels with what I have. As for the flywheel, I could just bring it to a shop and have them turn it right there on the spot, correct? The car is my daily driver, but I'd be happy to dedicate a weekend to a clutch swap. Now...give me some options on a clutch. How are the King Cobra and the Ford heavy duty clutches and how do they compare to a stock replacement?
So as 5.0Droptop said, jackstands will be enough to lower the tranny? I could probably get the car up about a foot on four wheels with what I have. As for the flywheel, I could just bring it to a shop and have them turn it right there on the spot, correct? The car is my daily driver, but I'd be happy to dedicate a weekend to a clutch swap. Now...give me some options on a clutch. How are the King Cobra and the Ford heavy duty clutches and how do they compare to a stock replacement?
sirr0bin
New Member
get a spec stage 1 clutch
good stock replacement, costed me less then a FRPP or king cobra clutch, and holds more i believe
im very happy with mine :G
good stock replacement, costed me less then a FRPP or king cobra clutch, and holds more i believe
im very happy with mine :G
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
You may want to consider replacing your rear main seal while you are in there. This will save you from having to rip it apart again to replace the disc that has been scorched because oil got onto it. The tranny is relatively easy. I always drop the trans with the oil in it, just put a zip lock bag over the tailshaft end and you can reuse it again (if you want). Also, make sure you replace the pilot bearing. You may want a "seal puller" if you have problems pulling it out. To do it right, also get a steel retainer put on the front of your T-5. Trust me, I had to do all this about 5 different times and it will save you the headache. Good luck.
this was one of my first major jobs on my car. it truely is fairly simple... only hard part is getting the trans back in!!! your gonna need a buddy for this..
your going to need extenstions (various lengths), a swivel head, socets, wrenchs, jack, and jack stands and maybe some pieces of 2x4's and a tourqe wrench.
its been a few years since i tackled this but the chiltons/ haynes manual gives you all the torque specs to put the stuff back together.
when replacing the clutch also buy a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing. (10 bucks at most)
drain the trans fluid. disconnect the bolts on the driveshaft.. remove driveshaft (keep shiny part that slides out of trans wrapped in a towel). put a plastic bag on the end of the trans (where the driveshaft came out to prevent access trans fluid from dropping on your face. secure with rubberband) . i used the wood to put on the bottom of the trans between the jack. this gave more "surface" for the trans to rest on.
another tip on putting the trans back in.... get the trans in as far as you can and then insert the driveshaft into the trans. have someone turn the driveshaft (while trans is in neutral) and the other guy push the trans back in. It "should" slip right it and if it doesnt have another friend push the clutch in. (this worked for me i was struggling two hours to move the freaking trans a 1/4"!!!!!!! my friend came over and in literally 1 minute had the thing in buy doing it this way)
good luck.. just take your time and STAY ORGANIZED!!!!!
if you start to get mad.. take a break and relax its supposed to be fun
your going to need extenstions (various lengths), a swivel head, socets, wrenchs, jack, and jack stands and maybe some pieces of 2x4's and a tourqe wrench.
its been a few years since i tackled this but the chiltons/ haynes manual gives you all the torque specs to put the stuff back together.
when replacing the clutch also buy a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing. (10 bucks at most)
drain the trans fluid. disconnect the bolts on the driveshaft.. remove driveshaft (keep shiny part that slides out of trans wrapped in a towel). put a plastic bag on the end of the trans (where the driveshaft came out to prevent access trans fluid from dropping on your face. secure with rubberband) . i used the wood to put on the bottom of the trans between the jack. this gave more "surface" for the trans to rest on.
another tip on putting the trans back in.... get the trans in as far as you can and then insert the driveshaft into the trans. have someone turn the driveshaft (while trans is in neutral) and the other guy push the trans back in. It "should" slip right it and if it doesnt have another friend push the clutch in. (this worked for me i was struggling two hours to move the freaking trans a 1/4"!!!!!!! my friend came over and in literally 1 minute had the thing in buy doing it this way)
good luck.. just take your time and STAY ORGANIZED!!!!!
if you start to get mad.. take a break and relax its supposed to be fun
5literttop
Member
I had the clucth and pressure plate off my car this past weekend! My T-5 blew up, so I installed a 4cyl 5-speed! And it works great!!! I did it on the ground (with car ramps) in my back yard, by myself! Can you believe it!
10 hour job for me! The only help I had was to put the H-Pipe on.
10 hour job for me! The only help I had was to put the H-Pipe on.
5literttop
Member
buff531 said:
It was the hardest part for me too! But I went solo!!! I must be crazy! I just laid under the car with the tranny on my gut and pushed the damn thing in bellhousing! So good of a feeling when you put it all back together!!!
Thanks again guys. Another thing...will the stock exhaust pipes conflict at all with lowering the tranny? I can't imagine they would...
I will definately replace the rear seal and all the bearings. Also, what about the cable? Is it good for another round because I think I might just swap in a new stock clutch so I have a slight idea of what to expect for daily driving. I may look into buying an aluminum driveshaft too if I can find a pre-$260 priced one.
I will definately replace the rear seal and all the bearings. Also, what about the cable? Is it good for another round because I think I might just swap in a new stock clutch so I have a slight idea of what to expect for daily driving. I may look into buying an aluminum driveshaft too if I can find a pre-$260 priced one.
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
Replacing the clutch cable depends on the type of clutch you decide to go with. If you go with a heavy duty clutch replace the cable with a manual adjustment mechanism. The stock is a automatic adjuster and it will stretch badly with a heavy duty clutch (Zoom, Ram, CF, King Cobra). The result will be "riding the clutch" with your new disc. You'll wear it out quick. I would spend the $100 and get an adjustable clutch cable. I tried a few and am very happy with the Steeda w/ firewall adjustment. Do it right and do it once. Good luck. Also, seriously consider the steel retainer. I think summit has it for $45.
Alright I got a quote from a small local shop called Midnite Auto for a full clutch/flywheel job for about $250-300 if I supply the parts. I'm still open to doing it myself, but it seems like a pretty good deal, and one of the guys owns an '88 5.0, so he probably knows what he's doing. Anyway, I'm going to start ordering some things.
Here's a list of what I'm going to get:
- Clutch etc (throwout bearing included)
- Pilot bearing
- Steel bearing retainer
- Rear main seal
- Tailshaft seal
- U-joints (or an aluminum DS if I can find one)
So what's the best place to pick up this stuff. I noticed 50resto has a lot of it. I'm also just thinking about getting a stock replacement clutch so I won't have to worry about cables/quadrants...unless I'm wrong about that. Then if there is anything else I should replace while the tranny is out let me know.
Here's a list of what I'm going to get:
- Clutch etc (throwout bearing included)
- Pilot bearing
- Steel bearing retainer
- Rear main seal
- Tailshaft seal
- U-joints (or an aluminum DS if I can find one)
So what's the best place to pick up this stuff. I noticed 50resto has a lot of it. I'm also just thinking about getting a stock replacement clutch so I won't have to worry about cables/quadrants...unless I'm wrong about that. Then if there is anything else I should replace while the tranny is out let me know.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
jpctln said:
1. Got my FMS heavy duty from Summit
2. Pilot bearing from Autozone
3. Steel retainer also from Summit. Beware, however, that you will have to set the preload with extra shims for anohter $50. Thats why mine is still in the box.
4/5. Seals can be had from most autoparts stores
6. Same for U-joints or just mailorder an AL DS.
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