Clutch Replacement

tunedin302 said:
If you go with a heavy duty clutch replace the cable with a manual adjustment mechanism. The stock is a automatic adjuster and it will stretch badly with a heavy duty clutch (Zoom, Ram, CF, King Cobra).
did you mean to replace the quadrant and pawl (as opposed to the cable, which should be fine)??

teflon rear main seals are nice. AZ has them for 20 bucks. IIRC, D&D sells stock clutches for 99 bucks, if you still want to go that route ( i would go with something a little better). make sure you get a good TOB. there is some junk out there (search in here for TOB noise threads - a lot of people have issues). pay more for one, even if you have to borrow $$.

good luck and let us know what you decide, how it goes, and how you like it.
 
Alright I'm bringing this thread back from the junkyard.

We're doing the clutch ourself, finally, and we started on it Friday afternoon. It's Saturday night now, and we've got everything disassembled and the only thing holding us back now is a flywheel resurface/replacement. We were planning on taking care of the flywheel earlier today, but couldn't get to it fast enough. The thing is though is that my dad goes out of town for the whole week on Monday, so if we cant find a new flywheel on Sunday, my car'll have to sit until next weekend, which isn't a huge deal though. I've got a spare.

This is what went down though:
First of all, two of the upper header-to-hpipe bolts were rusted solid, so they broke when we tried to get them off, naturally. We figured we'd worry about those later. I was thinking it'd be pretty much smooth sailing after taking out the hpipe, that is until we reached the upper starter to bell housing bolt. The bolt got completely stripped trying to get it out with a regular socket with u-joints and extensions. We ended up buying one of those craftsman socket bolt-out sets that we'd return later due to it's expense (snotty, I know), but Sears has a great return policy :lol:. Anyway once we got that bolt good and gripped onto, the head ended up breaking. I had the idea to cut through the top between the bellhousing and that dust shield with a dremel circle blade to get through that bolt enough, and it worked. Then I took care of those header bolts by drilling them out. So, about 3 Sears trips, 1 home depot trip, and about 2 days later, everything is ready for cleaning and reassembly. It's been 11 years since this all-weather vehicle had it's clutch put in, mind you :p. My general philosophy now is that broken bolts are to be expected...it's not something a little rust penetrator will take care of. I just hate when you need more tools to fix things while doing the job than doing that actual job itself.

Anyway, I've got a few concerns I need to address. First of all, what would be the best bolt combination to reattach the hpipe onto the headers. We tried autozone and found an exhaust bolt set but didn't look like it'd work right. Also, I took a look at the flywheel, and it feels smooth, but has a lot of dark spots on it (I don't know if you call these hotspots or what). We asked adv auto about them having a new flywheel in stock, and they had one listed but not in any of their warehouses anywere. The thing that confuses me though is that it was only listed as like 50 something dollars, which isnt much more than a decent resurface job. I'd expect the flywheel to cost at least $100. I think it'd be better to just get a whole new flywheel though. Next is torquing the flywheel bolts back up on there. They were easy enough to get off, but I'm expecting we'd need some kind of holder to put then back on their tight. What do those things look like? And finally, the rear seal is due for a replacement. I bought a cheap little seal puller thingmajig that looks like it has different hooked sides to it to kind of wedge the seal upward...I hope it works. Sorry for the big paragraphs but I just got to get'r'done.

BTW, Is Valvoline Maxlife Dextron III Auto Trans Flud (ATF?) alright for the T-5? I bought 3 quarts...and the tranny takes about 2.7, correct? What's the best way to put the fluid back in there? I was thinking I'd just put it in while it was out, and seal the tailshaft off real good with a plastic bag and tape so the fluid won't fall out during assembly.
 
Also, one more thing. This steal bearing retainer business is really confusing me. I know I absolutely need to put it on too, because the aluminum one is all gouged into...it looks like someone clamped a pair of big vice grips on the outside and just kept turning them...really bad. Anway, about these shims/races, whatever. First of all, I don't know what endplay means, and I'm confused as to what I measure to figure it out. Then there's the little black seal in the middle of the retainer... The steel one's seal is a little different than the old one, and is sharper on the edge of it. It's hard to push up onto the input shaft, and when it goes on, that little circular seal spring is left behind on the shaft when you take off the retainer. I'm talking about the seal in the middle of the steel retainer. Let me know what to do, thanks.
 
I would just buy new headers while your h pipe is off and you broke the stock header bolts. If you wanna use the stock headers your gonna have to cut the studs out and use new bolts. The flywhell i bought had to be ordered from auto zone was like 80 dollars. Make sure the 3 dowel pins did not come off the fly wheel when you took off the pressure plate. If they did and you cant find them you will have to order them from ford. Id just get the flywheel resurfaced. I just held my fly wheel up with my hand and put the bolts in. I used arp fasteners and lock tight when i did mine. I torqued it according to the haynes manual. To fill it put the tranny in first. The plug pulls put with a 1/2 ratchet. Make sure you fill it from the top one. I used a funnel with a long hose on it to fill it. It took me 2 hours do do my clutch the last time i did it when i had my 5 speed. It wasnt that hard. Make sure you torque everything to specs. and make sure you use locktight.
 
I am doing pretty much everything you are today. I would definitely do something with that flywheel. Either get it resurfaced or get a new one. I bought a new one being that a new Ford flywheel was only $109.95 at Mustangs Unlimited. Not resurfacing the flywheel will cause poor clutch alignment on the flywheel. I will let you know how it turns out.
 
Bear with me, its been over a year since I put my retainer on, but Ill do my best from memory.
If yours came with a black seal in it, than you are more lucky than I was. Holcomb Motorsports thought it would be a good idea not to mention that I might need a new seal, so I had to wait 2 extra days. But anyway, If you don't already know this use sealant on the retainer. If you dont you will be pulling the trans back out. The race is the piece of metal the bearing sits in, which I believe should already be pressed into the retainer. The bearing is the round piece with all the tiny little rollers around it.
As far as endplay....most say you need to measure it...I however just put the retainer on. (Im not saying you should do it this way). Someone correct me if Im wrong, endplay is the amount of distance you can pull the input shaft in/out, not up/down. Maybe its the other way....cant remember. Anyways you can measure it with a dial indicator or something similar. Good Luck, maybe someone can help you a little more than I did.
 
Yes, you can fill it from the shifter hole. I am not going to do that though because when I had the transmission rebuilt, the guy already put the shifter back on. You can just use a turkey baster to get it in the top drain plug. Also, this will avoid a possible mess in the car. Pull the top drain plug off whether you do it that way or not. Then fill the trans until it starts to run out the top plug.
 
yup, I just used whatever was already on the trans and tranfered it to the new retainer(except the seal of course). However Im not recommending you do this, but it is your call. Just definatly use sealant on the retainer. I fill it up by taking the fill plug out and pouring it through the shifter hole til it starts running out of the fill hole. Then you know its full, b/c the fluid line is supposed to be at the bottom of the fill hole. Just make sure the car is level.
 
Is that retainer seal removeable? I don't know, but there is something weird about the steel retainer's seal that doesn't quite fit on the input shaft right...maybe it's just me though. Where's the best way to order those shims if I wanted to get some? I'm putting everthing together this coming weekend so I'd need them by the end of the week.

Also, what are the best places to grease? I have some general purpose bearing/whatever lube thats thick and brown in color. What all should I put that on? The input shaft teeth, throwout/pilot bearings...anything else? I want to replace the rear main seal as well, but I'm afraid that if it's not leaking, I shouldn't fix it. I'd just be scared I would put it in wrong and it starts leaking with the new seal in it. If it's not broken, don't fix it, correct?
 
You can go ahead and replace your stock headers, but it would suck if then you broke a header bolt in the block. I broke a header stud when I did my clutch. I got a cheap drill set from Home depot and drilled out the stud - I used a angle grinder to cut the remaining stud out first infront and behind the header flange. Then I got a replacement stud from Ford, went to Napa for the correct size thread tap and then screwed it in to the header. Worked just fine.
 
You can get the shim kit from d&d motorsports. If your concerned about the seal, order a new one while your at it. Keep in mind it may be tighter simply b/c the old seal is worn.
As far as the grease goes, I only usually grease the outside of the retainer and the TO bearing. You may want to put a little grease on the bearing that sits inside the reatainer, but Im guessing the trans fluid lubricates that. If it looks like it was greased before then go ahead and regrease it but you dont want to introduce globs of grease into your trans, that wouldnt be so good.
For the rear main seal, If its not leaking, then dont bother it. Ive had mine replaced 3 times and it leaks. It didnt leak before but i thought it would be a good idea at the time. Ive even had a shop put a crank sleeve on it and it still leaks.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I just thought I'd bring this up as well... It's about the top starter bolt. It was completely fused into the starter housing and broke when trying to loosen it. The head of the bolt broke off, and when taking out the bellhousing, the lip of the starter that the bolt goes into broke. I don't know if I can rig up some kind of washer to fix that, or I if should get a new starter or what.

I made a little illustration to explain it better. The lighter part on the top is what broke off, and this is on the starter. Any suggestions?

starterbroke.jpg
 
Your gonna have to get a new starter or try to get that piece welded on. Dont rig it up becasue it will shake loose. Maybe you can use jb weld on it. that stuff is really strong.
 
Depends on which is more important to you- time or money. If you have extra time, Id jb weld that ear back on and then sand it and tap it. If you have extra money, just get a new starter. I personally would opt for the latter.
 
I did pretty much the same thing with a Tremec 3550 last week It took 4 hours to get the trans out on the ground and the clutch removed. It took 2 hours to replace the input shaft & set the end play with a dial indicator & shims. It took about 6-8 hours to put it all back together and make it driveable. I did the work without other human assistance, but with lots of prayer and maybe some angel hands to help.

A word for the bearing reatainer. See See http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/onlineorder/product.asp to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html.

You will need a dial indicator & stand to measure the end play. See http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1290 for more info - they have a indicator & base for less than $40.
 
Alright I measured what I think I need to measure and compared the two respectively.

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retainer.jpg


Old aluminum retainer

A = ~ 9.0 mm
B = ~ 15.5 mm
C = ~ 19.5 mm

New steel retainer

A = ~ 10.0 mm
B = ~ 15.5 mm
C = ~ 20.0 mm

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Is this what I'm supposed to measure? If so, would I need a shim other than the original?