okay i realize i posted recently about my notch being up for sale, but between the two family cobras listed in the title, which would be a better choice and why? i'm taking into consideration how fast it is, dependability, ease of modifying (as well as price)...all opinions welcome
josh072692
New Member
96-98 because the 5.0's just aren't as special because it's just a 5.0 with GT-40 heads and intake were as the 4.6 DOHC is a completely different motor and the dual snorkel hood is much cooler and just makes the car look much better overall. The 4.6's have also been reliable not that the 5.0 hasnt been though.
I would say 96-98. they seem to hold their value better and respond better to mods. the only thing I dont like about them is their lack of low end grunt. a novi would fix that though.
okay. i can find a 95 with afr 165 heads, x303 cam, and probe forged pistons w/ all msd ignition stuff for 5k. 50k on the motor 188k on body. i'm likin it so far...
josh072692
New Member
I dont know what you are looking to spend or how far you are willing to travel but there is 96 cobra with only 28k on it for 11,000 right by me.
My 95 LT1 Formula got it's arse eat by a 95 Cobra with exhaust and 4.10's. Under rated cars. Now the 96-98 is sexy
If you are going to mod it...94-95
If you are just gonna make it look purdy...96-98
There is less to mod on the mod but for H/C/I cost on the 5.0 you can get a blower on the modular and make 100hp more then the H/C/I 5.0
Headers are more expensive but everything else is not
But if you blow up the 5.0 you can get a new shortblock out of an exploder for $200. Blow up a 4.6L DOHC and it's gonna cost you a bit more than that.
The 5.0 block splits at the same point a 4.6 loses a rod or piston. A $200 5.0 block will still only hold 500ish hp. A Cobra engine with forged pistons and rods will hold well north of 1200hp. So if you took a 5.0 and put a blower and cams and heads and intake and have it making 500 rwhp FOR LESS MONEY you can put the forged pistons/rods in the Teksid and put a big centri on it and make 700+ rwhp and have room to grow just by cranking the boostBut if you blow up the 5.0 you can get a new shortblock out of an exploder for $200. Blow up a 4.6L DOHC and it's gonna cost you a bit more than that.
Plus it will still idle like stock and be quiet when just sitting there, the better to reel in the unsuspecting idiot.
But it's a 5.0!! And we all know 5.0 > 4.6L Mathematically so the same should hold true in real life right?? NAWS!!!
But it's a 5.0!! And we all know 5.0 > 4.6L Mathematically so the same should hold true in real life right?? NAWS!!!
Well, it's never completely done....but i'm getting plates for it on thursday.
Head and Cam swap will come later this summer. Right now i want to drive
Head and Cam swap will come later this summer. Right now i want to drive
DeVus1
Founding Member
yes, lol out of my price range. i'm still in college and have other things to pay for. and right now it's lookin like a afr165/x303/cobraintake, 95 cobra. for those of you who know more than me, how would the setup i mentioned compare to an afr165/e303cam/rpm performer II intake, combination for the same car?
25thmustang
Mustang Master
I think I remember you wanting it as a daily driver...
96-98 Cobra, 4.10 gears, exhaust, shifter, tune, lowered on some 18s and be done with it! Add a blower in the future, safe tune, 400+ to the tire and every day comfort!
96-98 Cobra, 4.10 gears, exhaust, shifter, tune, lowered on some 18s and be done with it! Add a blower in the future, safe tune, 400+ to the tire and every day comfort!
okay, the more and more i look, a 95 snake is what i think it's gonna be, mainly because (i like to have to comfort of) i know how to work on it if something were to go wrong, it would overheat, etc. on a 4.6 4v i'd be lost i remember my brother's car with afr165/custom cam/rpm II and it was a daily driver...so why couldn't mine be? just a mild h/c/i setup shouldnt be too much to have it on the road everyday...
25thmustang
Mustang Master
I would stear clear from that car for a DD. Even a mild HCI car might not be the best DD. Not to mention 188K miles on the chassis... unless a lot has been replaced, your looking at future costs coming into play shortly after you buy it...
I think for a DD, the 96-98 is the better of the two.
I think for a DD, the 96-98 is the better of the two.
What he said.I would stear clear from that car for a DD. Even a mild HCI car might not be the best DD. Not to mention 188K miles on the chassis... unless a lot has been replaced, your looking at future costs coming into play shortly after you buy it...
I think for a DD, the 96-98 is the better of the two.
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