Cobra Booster Install

[Chuckman]

dont know about the pedal assembly, or the v6 booster (mc should work for sure though), but as far as lines go, you can just use the stock lines and routing with a 3-2port kit as mentioned above. you can either buy one pre-made, or you can make it yourself with a bit of hose and a t fitting.

you'd only need a prop. valve if youre switching to rear disks. either way check out Fox Body Mustang MC and PV Upgrades itll answer a lot of questions.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

what was the easiest way to get the top two bolts off behind the dash?

best way is to use some angled ratcheting wrenches takes a it of time even with those, but eventually they come off, just wait until you have to put them back on, little word of advice, the bolts are not the same size as the ones from the fox so before you install it make sure you get the proper bolts

 

[Shaolin Crane]

I have my engine out and I'm hoping putting in the booster/MC from a 94 v6 will be easier that way.

unless the dash it out of the car it really wont make too much of a difference except when it comes to fitting the booster in the engine bay, but thats the easy part, once thats in getting the damn bolts on is the real work.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

on my 93 i am doing a SN95 dash swap, i am also doing the brakes from a 95 V6 car. can i use the pedal assy. and booster, and just re-route my lines to make them follow the same path as the 95? their is no ABS. should i use the prop. valve? After reading this thread i am going to rob the MC & Booster. My car is a 5sp.

as far s making your own 3-2 kit dont bother, the money saved isnt worth the headaches of trying to figure out what kind of threads you have on your car as ive found out theres 3-4 different threads that ford used between 87-95, as far as the pedal assembly the SN booster hooks right up to the factory pedal, gut your prop valve or remove it all togethor since it will hinder you later if you try and keep it, when it comes to adjustable prop valves buy the cheapest you can find because what u can see there all made by the same company just badged differently, and about redoing the brakes lines, damn thats a job and a half that doesnt need to be done, everything just about bolts right up, but i do suggest buying the SS brake like kit from maximum once those are installed brakes bolt right up and you get bitchen pedal feel. oh and go with the largest booster you can, you wont regret it.

 

[Chrome_Rust]

as far s making your own 3-2 kit dont bother, the money saved isnt worth the headaches of trying to figure out what kind of threads you have on your car as ive found out theres 3-4 different threads that ford used between 87-95, as far as the pedal assembly the SN booster hooks right up to the factory pedal, gut your prop valve or remove it all togethor since it will hinder you later if you try and ...

When i was repairing my shock towers, i hit the lines with the cutoff wheel, well the wheel exploded that it... i am going to have to replace the lines anyway. the rear line is a 4cyl line, and i have a V8 line to go in. the passenger line has been patched... so i need all new lines anyway. It is a job that i dont mind doing... trying to clean up the engine bay anyway. right now, there is no wireing, dash, or brake hardware in the car. so running my lines will be no sweat. i am already swaping the lincoln stuff in the front for SN95, the rear is getting 11.65 cobra stuff, so i need to do some fabbing anyway. thanks for the help. would a Ford MS Prop valve be a good choice?

 

[Shaolin Crane]

as long as its adjustable, but the willwood is just as good of quality and its a bit cheaper

 

[Shaolin Crane]

Summit SUM-G3905 - Summit® Brake Proportioning Valves - summitracing.com run that one its exactly the same as the higher end models and you can save about 20 bucks over some others