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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Cobra Brake Booster Source

  • Thread starter Thread starter Stroked88
  • Start date Start date Mar 3, 2018
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Reddevil91

15 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Mar 14, 2018
#21
  • Mar 14, 2018
  • #21
Well I ordered mine from rock along with the master cylinder should be in this week. So here is the real question, how in the #%** did you all get the stock booster out? I got 3 of the 4 nuts off, and I am stuck on one and I have no idea how to get to it. Tried for awhile last night to where I got fed up and quit. Tried socket but it needs the deep socket and I can’t get it up in there. Tried wrench and I can’t get that either. Also how do I disconnect the brake pedal from the booster?
 

Boostedpimp

20+ Year Stangneter
May 8, 2003
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Mar 14, 2018
#22
  • Mar 14, 2018
  • #22
ugh it's a real pita... remove the drivers seat if you haven't already. You should probably pop the rear plastic trim off that is under the steering wheel as well as the metal cover that's under that and use an assortment of extensions through there to get at the bolts.

To disconnect the brake pedal you need to look for a red hairpin clip behind the brake pedal. Pull it with a small screw driver or pair of pliers. Then slide the sensor off the stud and that is welded on to the brake pedal. Make sure you pay attention to how it was installed so that you position the bushings in the correct spot when you go to reinstall the sensor.
 

Reddevil91

15 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Mar 14, 2018
#23
  • Mar 14, 2018
  • #23
Boostedpimp said:
ugh it's a real pita... remove the drivers seat if you haven't already. You should probably pop the rear plastic trim off that is under the steering wheel as well as the metal cover that's under that and use an assortment of extensions through there to get at the bolts.

To disconnect the brake pedal you need to look for a red hairpin clip behind the brake pedal. Pull it with a small screw driver or pair of pliers. Then slide the sensor off the stud and that is welded on to the brake pedal. Make sure you pay attention to how it was installed so that you position the bushings in the correct spot when you go to reinstall the sensor.
Click to expand...
Ha ha yeah I yanked that drivers seat out after getting one bolt out and felt like I twisted up my spine. I’ll give that a shot by taking that panel out and see what I can do. After just getting three bolts out I quickly said wtf am doing I should’ve had someone do this for me!!
 

Boostedpimp

20+ Year Stangneter
May 8, 2003
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Mar 14, 2018
#24
  • Mar 14, 2018
  • #24
Reddevil91 said:
Ha ha yeah I yanked that drivers seat out after getting one bolt out and felt like I twisted up my spine. I’ll give that a shot by taking that panel out and see what I can do. After just getting three bolts out I quickly said wtf am doing I should’ve had someone do this for me!!
Click to expand...

Haha yea I hear you there man. Just make sure you take a picture or pay attention to exactly how the sensor goes back on the booster rod/pedal and if you haven't already loosen or remove your master cylinder first. Doing so will make it easier to unbolt the mc from the booster and will give you more room to get the booster out and if your upgrading to a cobra master cylinder anyways well the thing has to go anyways.
 

Reddevil91

15 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Mar 14, 2018
#25
  • Mar 14, 2018
  • #25
Boostedpimp said:
Haha yea I hear you there man. Just make sure you take a picture or pay attention to exactly how the sensor goes back on the booster rod/pedal and if you haven't already loosen or remove your master cylinder first. Doing so will make it easier to unbolt the mc from the booster and will give you more room to get the booster out and if your upgrading to a cobra master cylinder anyways well the thing has to go anyways.
Click to expand...
So I did undo the two nuts and bolts that hold the MC to the booster. I was wondering can you remove it in one piece, and then install the new cobra MC and booster as one whole unit or is that just to difficult.
 

Boostedpimp

20+ Year Stangneter
May 8, 2003
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Mar 15, 2018
#26
  • Mar 15, 2018
  • #26
Reddevil91 said:
I was wondering can you remove it in one piece, and then install the new cobra MC and booster as one whole unit or is that just to difficult.
Click to expand...

I honestly don't know.. The booster is such a pain in the balls that both times I've done it I never even attempted with the mc bolted to it
 

Reddevil91

15 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Mar 23, 2018
#27
  • Mar 23, 2018
  • #27
Ok for those who painted their boosters how did you go about it. I cleaned mine off bc I felt greasy in a way. Then lightly scuffed it all up and wiped it down. Sprayed it with glossy black caliper paint w/ceramic. It didn’t come out smooth actually looks like oil met water. I know once it’s in you won’t see it all that much but still.
 

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Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Mililani, Hawaii
Mar 23, 2018
#28
  • Mar 23, 2018
  • #28
I use a ratchet wrench up on that last nut. It needs to be a good one though that has a tight ratcheting to it, can't be an old sloppy one. I have painted a few cobra boosters and it always does what yours did. Must be something they use on their coating that causes it.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
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Mar 23, 2018
#29
  • Mar 23, 2018
  • #29
POR15 mine ...lol
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Mar 23, 2018
#30
  • Mar 23, 2018
  • #30
It needed a wash with Dawn dish detergent...scuffed...washed again. Dried and then hit with primer and then paint. They use a type of oil to help keep it from rusting in the box. I forget the name of it....but its the same stuff that's on brand new brake rotors.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Mar 23, 2018
#31
  • Mar 23, 2018
  • #31
Non chlorinated brake clean works good to take that oil off too.
 

Reddevil91

15 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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Mar 24, 2018
#32
  • Mar 24, 2018
  • #32
karthief said:
Non chlorinated brake clean works good to take that oil off too.
Click to expand...
I did spray it pretty good with brake cleaner and scrubbed it, then scuffed it. Maybe I’ll just clean it again and give what @90sickfox did a try. @mikestang63 idk what that por15 is???
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Mar 24, 2018
#33
  • Mar 24, 2018
  • #33
I should have added that you need to wash it after the brake cleaner, cleaning before and after any sanding is very important to any paint job.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Mar 24, 2018
#34
  • Mar 24, 2018
  • #34
por15
 
B

Bob91vert

Member
Sep 8, 2015
89
22
15
Apr 7, 2018
#35
  • Apr 7, 2018
  • #35
I was installing mine today and took it out. There is a sticky spot in its travel? I'm reluctant to finish the job until I am sure it's correct. It's better when vacuum is connected, but still has a sticky spot. Anyone else experience this? We are ordering another just to check it. Ny buddies shop can return it once we confirm things.
 

Reddevil91

15 Year Member
Mar 3, 2010
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773
163
Apr 7, 2018
#36
  • Apr 7, 2018
  • #36
Bob91vert said:
I was installing mine today and took it out. There is a sticky spot in its travel? I'm reluctant to finish the job until I am sure it's correct. It's better when vacuum is connected, but still has a sticky spot. Anyone else experience this? We are ordering another just to check it. Ny buddies shop can return it once we confirm things.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by sticky spot?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,226
17,911
224
Massachusetts
Apr 7, 2018
#37
  • Apr 7, 2018
  • #37
Nope
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
6,945
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Apr 7, 2018
#38
  • Apr 7, 2018
  • #38
Unbolt the master cylinder and see if it goes away.
 
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Bob91vert

Member
Sep 8, 2015
89
22
15
Apr 8, 2018
#39
  • Apr 8, 2018
  • #39
I mean when you push the pedal down, about a third of the way down the it has a sticky spot that it hangs up at. It goes farther down and sticks again on the way back up. This is without the master cylinder on. When I hook the vacuum up it is much easier to push but still has the sticky spot. Not as bad, but still there.
I never put the master cylinder on because I don't think it's right. I think it's a bunk rebuild from cardone.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Apr 8, 2018
#40
  • Apr 8, 2018
  • #40
How many inches of movement are we talking? Your pedal rod may be at a bad angle or have a flat spot, check the rod and stud were it connects to the pedal when you go to install the other booster
 
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