I have an extra set of super clean OEM LX tails in my garage as back up. Never getting rid of them. They do make a ton of difference in regards to having a good looking rear end on your Fox.
I love me a clean white GT
awesome.
Thanks for that comparison which is a decent improvement. What did you do with the Cobra intake? Besides dyno numbers how is the overall before & after engne build seat of the pants results?Well it's done and here are the results, cobra vs systemax on same engine. With cobra it made 271/311 with systemax 286/307. Not often you get a real side by side comparison. I think there was a little more on the table as the temperatures were near 100* yesterday. I haven't looked at the graph yet to see how the curves compare, but I guess the real test will be when I pick it up Monday and drive it. Sorry for the crappy pic btw.
Thanks. I think it's the only car that actually looks good with the red interior. Just looks right for whatever reason. I have been debating on changing it to black with some Mach 1 style seats but the interior is really clean. Only thing I need to fix inside is the gangster lean on the drivers seat. Other than that just needs a new stereo.
Thanks for that comparison which is a decent improvement. What did you do with the Cobra intake? Besides dyno numbers how is the overall before & after engne build seat of the pants results?
Quick question (emphasis mine), do you mean that you should not press old ball joints out of/press new ones into the stock control arms?If it were me. I'd replace the ball joints with moog or steeda ones. You can do that in the stock A arms one time. If you get the MM control arms. you may not need the quad shocks at all. Take them off and see if you get wheel hop. If you do, then get a new set. For CC plates, go with the MM pieces. Do it right the first time and dont use cheap chinese knockoffs.
I am not saying I have the best setup by far, but this has worked for me on a few cars
Steeda springs
MM CC plates
MM control arms
Tokico shocks
MM subframe connectors
Poly sway bar and end link bushings
Simple, basic and works well. The car drives firm but not harsh, handles far better than stock, doesnt rattle or shake over ever bump, and is about 1" lowered than stock. Yes I could have done coil overs but it's personal preference.
Quick question (emphasis mine), do you mean that you should not press old ball joints out of/press new ones into the stock control arms?
I only ask because I replaced my ball joints when the driver's side started making noise. I used moog ball joints at the time because I couldn't afford the Steeda ones. I was planning to upgrade to the Steeda ball joints, but this might give me pause.
It's better and easier to replace the whole control arm. The control arm bushings get soft over time.Sorry. Ford actually recommends replacing the entire control arm, however you can get away with replacing the balljoint with a Moog or Steeda unit. What I have found over the years is the replacement units are larger in diameter than stock, and have the knurls on it and when you press fit them in, it stays in place by the tightness of fitting into the smaller hole of the stock balljoint. When you press them out and install the same replacement,may or may not be as tight.
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