Code 66 and now hardly runs, will not idle

[7991LXnSHO]

My car shows KOEO Code 66 and now hardly runs, and it will not idle today. It started up and ran fine this morning, but got worse as errands went on. Yesterday it was running less than it's best, but today I'm surprised I made it home. A quick visual does not show bad or disconnected vacuum lines. What do I do? My guide says 66 is lower value for MAF, so should I try the stock MAF? My generic guide with the reader does not always show what jricher's does.
Thanks!

 

[7991LXnSHO]

No, the stock MAF will not work with my injectors. So NOW what????

 

[jrichker]

Code 66 MAF below minimum test voltage.
Insufficient or no voltage from MAF. Dirty MAF element, bad MAF, bad MAF wiring, missing power to MAF. Check for missing +12 volts on this circuit. Check the two links for a wiring diagram to help you find the red wire for computer power relay switched +12 volts. Check for 12 volts between the red and black wires on the MAF heater (usually pins A & B). while the connector is plugged into the MAF. This may require the use of a couple of safety pins to probe the MAF connector from the back side of it.

There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element causing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables.

The MAF element is secured by 2 screws & has 1 wiring connector. To clean the element, remove it from the MAF housing and spray it down with electronic parts cleaner or non-inflammable brake parts cleaner (same stuff in a bigger can and cheaper too).

Changes in RPM causes the airflow to increase or decease, changing the voltage output.. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow.

Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer. Be sure to measure the sensor output by measuring across the pins and not between the pins and ground.

At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt

Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.

There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF wiring connector and pins A or B. Make your measurement with the MAF disconnected from the wiring harness.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel pump, alternator, ignition & A/C wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Computer,. actuator & sensor wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Fuse panel layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

Vacuum routing
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

 

[7991LXnSHO]

"Be sure to measure the sensor output by measuring across the pins and not between the pins and ground.

At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt"

First, are all these measured in 1st gear??? Secondly, am I supposed to have the hood open, ride on the radiator support measuring voltages while my spouse drives blind???? I hope to let you know soon it is fixed, right after I get out of the hospital.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I measured the resistance between pins, but I’m not sure if I am supposed to be measuring between just c-d and a-b, or all the above. Here are my measurements. If all are supposed to be at least 10000 ohms, A-B on the new looks low, and D-C looks low on the stock one.

MAF Resistance measurements in ohms

NEW (BBK)Stock

A-B 3000 21000

D-C 12000 1800

D-A 12000 29000

C-A 200 23000

C-B 0 0

Do these (A-B and/or C-B) mean I probably found the problem? The 12 volt supply
Is not a problem, and I have not checked the wires to the computer yet. The almost new meter looks clean, but I can clean it if it seems like a good idea.

 

[jrichker]

The voltage to speed figures were put up with the idea that someone with good judgment would figure out that they would need to get some 22-18 gage insulated wire and extend the meter leads. Done that way, you can sit in the car and observe the voltage while someone else drives. If you want to find another more risky way to test the voltage, that is your problem.

Re-read the code 66 troubleshooter carefully and you will find that the MAF has 2 circuits that are isolated from each other: the heater (pins A & B) and the sensor (pins C & D). Voltage readings are made between A & B and C & D: no other voltage readings are useful when testing the MAF. The heater has 12 volts with the ignition switch in the Run position. The sensor circuit should have a voltage between .5 and 5.0, depending on the amount of air flowing through it. There should never be 12 volts on the sensor circuit. If there is, the MAF sensor is bad.

Making resistance checks:
1.) The power has to be off the circuit.
2.) The MAF wiring connector has to be disconnected from the MAF.
3.) You cannot touch the bare wire, probe tips or connector pins with your bare hands when making resistance measurements. If you do, the readings will be incorrect. Sweaty hands are excellent electrical conductors.

The purpose of the resistance checks are to verify that there is no voltage leaking from the heater circuit into the sensor circuit and corrupting the sensor readings.

Some help on using the Multimeter or DVM:
Step 1.) Find the instruction book that came with your Multimeter. Read it and familiarize yourself with how it works and how use it. If you lost the book or didn’t get one with it, do a Google search on the web to find the manufacturer’s web site & download a copy of the manual.

Step 2. ) Make sure that you know what test lead plugs into which jacks on the Multimeter. There are usually several different jacks on most Multimeters, and they have different functions. Make sure that your battery(ies) in the Multimeter are good: if you have any doubts, replace the battery(ies).

Step 3.) Once you are sure that the Multimeter is functional and you have the leads plugged into the jacks for Ohms ( the upside down “U” symbol), do some simple measurements to make sure that you know how to use it correctly. Set the switch to the lowest Resistance or Ohms range and touch the leads together: you should not see “nothing” but you should see 1.0-0.3 ohms. Measure a 60 watt light bulb: cold it will measure about 17.5 Ohms. It you measure it while it is hot, the reading will be greater.

Step 4.) Make several test measurements using the ohms function and the DC volts function. Remember all resistance measurements must be done with the power off the circuit. This avoids false readings and possible damage to the ohmmeter.. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until you are sure that you can do it without making any mistakes.