I finished an AOD-t5 swap and seeing 67. I'm running the A9P and a T5 harness. The car runs pretty wicked, but I need to get smog tested and the MIL isn't helping. Would an A9L solve my problem?
Code 67
- Thread starter builtPARKtough
- Start date
Is it the connection closest to the bellhousing? When I did the swap I used the t5 harness from the manual car and plugged in all 3 connections at the tranny.
With KOEO I'm getting the 67 and now a 15c. With the car running and the clutch in the MIL is off. What is going on?
backfocus
Member
You swapped to a T5 Correct?
Just a silly question, but the car is in neutral, correct? That will throw a 67 if it is not, but again I am not overly familiar with the A9P
Just a silly question, but the car is in neutral, correct? That will throw a 67 if it is not, but again I am not overly familiar with the A9P
backfocus
Member
Where can I find a NSS for a t5? Ford, along with everyone else, keeps trying to give me the reverse light switch.
backfocus
Member
Here you go.
Did you test yours to see if it is working? It could be a wire too, I will look how to test it and get back to you.
Did you test yours to see if it is working? It could be a wire too, I will look how to test it and get back to you.
backfocus
Member
That is what it showed for it. Since I have my motor out tonight I will look since it should be easy to find. I can't find any info on testing the switch or a close up to confirm that, that is correct. Although the price seems to be right according to All Data.
Maybe someone else can chime in, if they know, you have me curious now.
Maybe someone else can chime in, if they know, you have me curious now.
backfocus
Member
Hold on this looks right now! Believe in or not autozone may have something right. Let me know if this looks correct, but I am still checking when I get home in a few hours.
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip...itialvehicleId,1011802/shopping/selectZip.htm
Or Maybe this is the clutch sensor, my stuff show both. It is really not making sense now.
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip...itialvehicleId,1011802/shopping/selectZip.htm
Or Maybe this is the clutch sensor, my stuff show both. It is really not making sense now.
backfocus
Member
Ok so the top sensor on the LH side of the Trans is the Backup switch. The NSS or Clutch switch (Depending on what book you are looking at) is on or behind the clutch petal arm under the dash. This is what Alldata states as far as testing.
This switch functions magnetically. Do not use magnetized tools near this switch.
1. If the switch is open when the clutch pedal is released, speed control will not operate. This must be corrected before making any other tests. Use only a voltmeter of 5000 ohm/volt rating or higher when performing the clutch switch test.
2. Disconnect switch pigtail connector from speed control harness connector, then connect an ohmmeter to the two switch connector terminals.
3. With clutch pedal in the fully released position, the resistance should be less than 5 ohms. With clutch pedal fully depressed, the circuit should be open.
4. If switch does not function as described, remove and replace switch.
I was going crazy because depending on what book or reference you are looking at it is called something different. But seems the part is reference to the clutch switch, which will throw a 67. As far as the code 15 I would clear the codes and try again. I am not sure about using that computer with the swap, since I have not done that before, or if it is the cause of the 67, but hopefully this helps a little. I wouldn't think the 67 would throw the MIL, but maybe so.
This switch functions magnetically. Do not use magnetized tools near this switch.
1. If the switch is open when the clutch pedal is released, speed control will not operate. This must be corrected before making any other tests. Use only a voltmeter of 5000 ohm/volt rating or higher when performing the clutch switch test.
2. Disconnect switch pigtail connector from speed control harness connector, then connect an ohmmeter to the two switch connector terminals.
3. With clutch pedal in the fully released position, the resistance should be less than 5 ohms. With clutch pedal fully depressed, the circuit should be open.
4. If switch does not function as described, remove and replace switch.
I was going crazy because depending on what book or reference you are looking at it is called something different. But seems the part is reference to the clutch switch, which will throw a 67. As far as the code 15 I would clear the codes and try again. I am not sure about using that computer with the swap, since I have not done that before, or if it is the cause of the 67, but hopefully this helps a little. I wouldn't think the 67 would throw the MIL, but maybe so.
I'll check the clutch safety switch this weekend and hope that that is the culprit. Thanks a lot for your help, I'll keep you posted on the outcome.
The switch on the top of the trans is an NSS but it's not required to start the car. It's only used to tell the computer the trans is in neutral and to dump codes. If it was faulty, you wouldn't be able to pull codes.
Check the one on the pedal. Can you start the car without pushing the clutch down? You removed the jumper and plugged the harness in correct?
Check the one on the pedal. Can you start the car without pushing the clutch down? You removed the jumper and plugged the harness in correct?
I could not start the car without the clutch being pushed down and I'm pretty confident that the harness is hooked up correctly.
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