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Code Problems...

  • Thread starter Thread starter StangLou
  • Start date Start date Oct 9, 2004

StangLou

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Jul 9, 2003
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Holly Springs, NC
Oct 9, 2004
#1
  • Oct 9, 2004
  • #1
A few weeks ago I was getting a check engine light that would come on after I drove the car a few times a day. I took it to the shop and they said the only code they got was a bad egr code. I went to auto zone and got a new egr and put it on that afternoon. Check engine light was gone for about 3 days, then it came back on
I said what the heck and went auto zone again today to see if they had a code reader. They had an EEC IV reader for 30 bucks so I grabbed it. Hooked it up to the 5.0 and low and behold Im still getting a freaking EGR code, and 2 others. They are as follows according to my book...

Code 91 Exhaust Gas Oxygen (EGO) Sensor. signal voltage always indicates lean either during engin run test or normal engine operating conditions.

Code 33 EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor or pressure feedback EGR (PFE) sensor indicates EGR valve is not opening. or EGR Valve Position sensor or pressure feedback EGR sensor indicates EGR valve not seated properly.

and finally Code 13 RPM out of specification during normal idle operation.

The code 13 I know whats causing it, the idle on my car has been set at ~900-1000 rpms ever since I first got it.

Im not sure what to make of the code 91, is that the same thing as a bad 02 sensor? If so, then I am almost certain I have lost at least 1 if not 2 cats which has probably contributed to the bad 02 sensor.

Im guessing for the Code 33 I just dont have the EGR valve seated properly on. Its a brand new valve, I doubt anything is wrong with it.

Any input you guys have would be greatly appreciated as always
 
R

Rrralf

New Member
Oct 8, 2004
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0
Oct 10, 2004
#2
  • Oct 10, 2004
  • #2
My '87 EGR position sensor needed calibrating

I had EGR codes (years ago, on my '87 5.0L) caused by design or fab of the stock unit. I pulled the EGR/sensor assy and checked it off the car with a hand vacuum pump and an ohmmeter. In my case, the valve closed fully but the position sensor showed it was still a bit open. It's been a few years, but as I recall, the 0-5V potentiometer (position transducer) would indicate maybe 1.5V and should have been less than 1V. Replacement parts were the same. I pulled the sensor and ground a bit off the end of the feeler rod, maybe 0.040" or so. I would have preferred shimming the sensor body, but it's a gas-tight seal on the vacuum side of the diaphragm, and it was too tough so I ground the pin. This fixed my EGR code. Your problem may well be different, like perhaps carbon buildup in the valve, a bum vacuum solenoid, wiring connection, etc. Triple-check measurements with a dial caliper before trying my mod!
 

StangLou

Active Member
Jul 9, 2003
1,264
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36
Holly Springs, NC
Oct 10, 2004
#3
  • Oct 10, 2004
  • #3
Yeah Im leaning towards the bum solenoid for the EGR code. When we first pulled the codes he said that if the new egr didnt fix it, it would probably be a bad solenoid Does anyone know which solenoids tie in directly with the egr? Pics would be a big help . Ill also hunt through my haynes manual and see if it says anything about this situation.

Thanks guys! Any ideas on the EGO code? is that the same as an O2 sensor?
 

jrichker

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Oct 10, 2004
#4
  • Oct 10, 2004
  • #4
Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif


Code 41 or 91 - O2 indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.
The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.

When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote

Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter.

The O2 sensor ground is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts
 
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